Winter Driving Tips for Snow and Ice: How to Stay Safe on Slippery Roads

Driving in the snow can be dangerous. Whether snow-covered roads are part of your everyday commute to work or your reward after a long trip into the mountains, preparation can save your life. When driving in ice and snow, your tires have less grip, which means that normal maneuvers (braking, turning, stopping) will require more distance and time to complete. It also means that preparation—ensuring you have the right tires and/or traction-aiding devices, that your car is ready to handle the elements, and that you have a plan if you get stuck—is key. 

Here’s a look at how to get yourself and your ride ready for any challenges Old Man Winter might toss your way.  

The Best Winter Driving Offense Is a Good Defense 

Skills and equipment aside, the best way to remain safe in the snow is to avoid it. Especially in severe weather situations, staying home is the best way to guarantee safety. Even small mistakes can put you, your loved ones, others on the road, and rescuers in harm’s way. Remember that in a storm, help can be days away. Check the weather and road reports, and when in doubt, stay home and stay warm. But if you must venture out, read on for some important tips, tricks, and gear you’ll need. 

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Go Slow and Look Where You Want to Go 

Driving in the snow seems simple—just go slow, right? But it's not necessarily intuitive. It’s stopping, not going, that can be the real issue. Sudden braking or panicked maneuvers can break traction, and then you’re just a passenger as physics takes over. So although driving slowly is important, you should think of it more as giving yourself more room to brake and plan for turns. 

That goes with maintaining a large distance between your vehicle and the vehicle in front of you—much more than in regular conditions. A shorter following distance will give you more time to adequately brake before a stop sign, traffic light, or a turn.  

If your car does start to slide, you’ll want to countersteer—turn the wheels away from the slide—to attempt to get your car pointed back in the right direction. Steer where you want to go. Understand that sliding on snow or ice could involve rotating in more than one direction. You may need to countersteer one direction, and then if the car rotates past where you want it to go, you may have to countersteer back in the opposite direction. Basically, be prepared to be dynamic with the steering wheel if you slide, with smooth steering inputs that bring the car back into control.  

The car is more likely to go where you're looking; if you stare at the snowbank your car is sliding toward, you're a lot more likely to hit it. As you approach a corner or plan a pass, develop a strategy for what you’ll do if you end up losing traction early and point your head where you want to go if the car starts to slide. 

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Don't try to do too much at once, either. Separate your inputs so the tires are only doing one thing at once. If you try slowing down (longitudinal force) and cornering (lateral force) at the same time, it's easy to overwhelm the tires and lose control. Getting your braking done gently and early while traveling straight will help your tires maintain traction through turns. Panic braking—slamming on your brakes sharply, that is—will do the opposite.  

Another way to think about this is to imagine you’re approaching a tight turn in slippery conditions. Before you start to turn your wheels and well before you get to the turn, slowly and progressively brake until the car is at an appropriate speed for the corner. Then stop that braking input and begin a steering input—i.e., turn the steering wheel—as needed to make the corner.  

When the snow gets deep consider your vehicle’s ground clearance. If your bumper is pushing the snow or the undercarriage is sliding across it, there is additional friction keeping you from moving forward. High-centering your vehicle—getting the middle of its underside stuck on a bump of snow or ice, leaving some or all of your wheels in the air (or not firmly pressing into the surface) with limited traction—is a tough situation that’s hard to extricate yourself from without a tow, a device to dig out your car, or a traction aid like a traction board.  

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Brake It Before You Break It 

Oh, and when you hit the brakes, don't fear ABS. Track rats will tell you braking is most effective right at the threshold of grip, which is technically correct, but in an emergency scenario the best realistic strategy is to brake with firm, consistent pressure. The pedal will judder and vibrate underfoot—you're not breaking anything; the antilock braking system is operating as intended to minimize wheel lockup and bring you to a safe stop. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has mandated antilock brakes in the U.S. since 2012—so don't worry if your 2012-or-newer car doesn't have a rad “ABS” badge—you're probably good. The feature has also been widely available for decades, so check your owner's manual for more detail. 

If you're driving something ancient (or if your ABS warning light is on and the system isn't functioning) and your tires lock up when stopping hard, pump the pedal—that is, brake hard, release until the tires start rolling again, and brake hard again. Repeat the process at increasing frequency as speed drops. 

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How Things Can (Literally) Go Sideways 

Driving is you managing mass as it moves through space. Accidents happen when the mass manages you. Deceleration sends weight forward, which is bad if you start to understeer, where the car resists turning; or oversteer, where the rear end of the car turns more than the front, spinning the rear around. In an understeer situation, the car won't turn as much as it needs to if you didn't anticipate the turn or gave too much steering and braked too hard. In other words, if you’re taking a turn, the car would slide toward the outside of the turn. Unwind the steering a bit to regain traction and avoid the brake pedal in the middle of a turn; the additional weight on the front end will only further overwhelm the tires that have already lost grip. 

If the rear starts to lose traction—so, oversteer—turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction (countersteering) and gently get on the throttle to send weight back and put more weight (read: traction) on the rear tires. It’s counterintuitive for most drivers, who’ll find that the instinct when something dramatic happens is to stand on the brakes. But if the rear end starts to slide, that would be counterproductive, transferring weight off of the rear tires and making the slide worse. Turn “in” to the slide to try to keep the vehicle going straight ahead, and use gentle throttle inputs to encourage the car to bite down and find some traction. 

The Right Tires Help Can Make a Big Difference 

Remember that all a car's acceleration, braking, and cornering loads are managed by four smartphone-sized patches of rubber in contact with the ground. Winter tires (and some all-seasons) have specifically developed rubber compounds that stay pliable and grippy when temps drop below freezing, plus tread patterns specifically designed to maintain traction in the snow and ice. The downside of winter tires is their softer rubber does not hold up to use on dry pavement and should only be used during the winter season. 

Winter tires account for just 5 percent of the U.S. tire market—it's dominated by all-seasons that compromise cold-weather performance for year-round convenience. After all, who wants to buy a separate set of tires for one season, when just one set of tires is expensive enough for many people? 

We can't blame folks, either. Driving enthusiasts will tout the benefits of dedicated winter tires until our faces are bluer than glacial ice, but realistically, we know not all cold-weather drivers have the budget or storage space for a second set of rolling stock. (After all, where do those other, non-snow tires go during the winter months?)  

Choosing the right winter tires depends on how often you drive in the snow and what kind of weather you’ll face in the area you travel regularly. In places where snow consistently covers the roads, dedicated snow tires (or even studded tires, if allowed by your local rules) might be the best option.  

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If your vehicle only sees snow a handful times per season, dedicated snow tires will provide the most traction, but some drivers may choose instead all-terrain tires with the Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake designation. These tires share some of the characteristics of snow tires and can perform better in the snow compared to all-season tires and all-terrains without the designation while still being able to run on the road all year long. Vehicles that see regular off-road use can benefit from all-terrains with the Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake due to the additional traction these provide in many low-traction situations, like mud and sand, not just snow and ice.  

Not all snow-ready tires are created equal. Just because two tires have the same snowflake rating or all-season moniker doesn't mean they'll perform the same. Do your research (the folks at Tire Rack have some great resources), be intentional about what you want and need from your tires, and you'll be in good shape. Any winter-rated tire, of course, will be an improvement over a strict summer tire or most all-seasons. And remember, if you’re using one set of snow tires half the year and all- or summer-season rubber the rest of the time, each set still lasts a normal period of time—only those replacement intervals are stretched, since the wear accrual is broken up by the annual switch to winter tires. In other words, it’s not as though you’ll be replacing your two sets of tires at the same intervals you would if you only had one set.   

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What About Tire Chains and Studded Tires? 

Tire chains are a time-tested way to add significant traction to just about any tire. But traditional tire chains come with many caveats, such as difficult installation, limited speeds, the need to stop and check them every so often, and so forth. A variety of alternatives exist, such as tire “socks,” rubber or metal traction aids that clamp to part of the tire, or even traction boards and mats. All have various strengths and weaknesses. Whatever you choose, make sure you’re familiar with installing or using the device before you need it. You don’t want to have to find out the chains don’t fit your tires or you can’t figure out how to install them while you’re in a snowy ditch in the dark.  

Studded tires can be a good choice in certain limited situations and areas. In places where winter is particularly nasty and there’s likely to be a thick layer of snow and ice on the roads all winter, studded tires can be a good bet and provide excellent traction. Some areas ban their use, and they damage dry pavement (and reduce traction on wet or dry pavement, as well as in some snow conditions). For most drivers, dedicated winter tires are a better bet than studded tires.  

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Hope for the Best, Prepare for the Worst 

Sometimes Murphy’s Law comes into play, and when it’s cold out an inconvenient situation can turn dangerous or even life-threatening. It’s a great idea to carry an emergency kit throughout the winter (or all the time if you have room). The purpose of these supplies is to keep you alive should you become stuck with your vehicle in a winter situation. Whether you slid off the road or need to shelter in place due to hazardous conditions, this kit can save lives.  

• High-calorie food and snacks  
• Water  
• Emergency blanket 
• Headlamp and batteries  
• Snow shovel 
• Snow brush  
• Jumper cables or (charged) jump box 
• Phone chargers  
• Traction devices (snow chains, recovery boards, etc) 
• Flares and/or reflective triangles 
• First aid kit 

Store these items in a durable bag or container and do not remove them from the vehicle for the duration of the winter season. 

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Do This If You Get Stuck 

So everything did go sideways and now you’re stuck? Stay with your vehicle! This keeps you out of the elements and gives rescuers the best chance of locating your vehicle with you in it. Leaving your vehicle at idle can keep you and your passengers warm when stranded; however, keep your tailpipe clear. A blocked tailpipe can direct exhaust fumes into the car, filling it with carbon monoxide (CO), a colorless, odorless, and deadly gas. (CO can incapacitate and kill you very quickly, so take this advice seriously.) Remain in your vehicle while you call for help. In a significant storm, help might be many hours away. 

If “sideways” means “slightly off the road during the first snow of the year,” proceed as you would for a typical traffic incident, but remember, you might not be the only one sliding on that hill or curve, so be aware of other out-of-control vehicles. If you must get out of your car to get it unstuck or the like, look around that a sliding car isn’t bearing down on you. Next, stop spinning the tires. If you give the stuck vehicle throttle and there is no forward progress, spinning will make you more stuck, or even slide a car backward. If the area is safe and you have the gear (chains, traction boards, etc.), deploy your items to help get unstuck. 

If the help needed involves a tug from another vehicle or a winch, ensure your vehicle has a solid place to attach it and the helper is using the right gear. A snatch strap is specially designed for this job. Conversely, “good enough” connections (wrapping a rope around a hitch ball, using a chain) can fail and send heavy components flying with more than enough force to kill you or a bystander. When in doubt, call a professional tow service, if possible.  

How to Maintain Winter Tires 

Part of why winter tires grip the snow better than normal tires is because their rubber is generally softer. This can lead to a decreased tread life if they are driven heavily on warm and dry pavement. The easiest way to maintain the performance of winter tires is to only use them in winter conditions. Rotating your winter tires can also help extend their service life. And keep in mind, even tires that aren’t worn out may “age out” if they’re too old. Old tires may have reduced performance and safety, being more prone to blowouts and other issues. If you’re not sure how to check your tires, consult a tire specialist or read our guide on how long tires last. 

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Preparing Your Vehicle  

If you must head out into grim winter conditions, take a few moments to check over your car and make sure it’s up to the task.  

Before driving in the snow, follow this checklist to make sure your vehicle is ready for winter travel: 

• Wiper blades are new and/or functioning. 
• Washer fluid is full.  
• Radiator and transmission full and serviced if necessary. 
• Emergency kit stocked and in the vehicle. 
• Tires are inflated properly. 
• The battery and charging system are working. 
• Jumper cables or a jump box are on board. 
• The lights, turn signals, and emergency flashers are functional. 
• Make sure your heater and defroster are working well enough to clear your windows. 

The battery and charging system are particularly important. Batteries struggle in cold weather, and battery and charging system issues are a major factor in many winter strandings. A battery that may seem fine in warmer weather might not have the output to crank over your engine in the cold.  

There are various battery and charging system testers you can use. Many auto parts places can check your car with one if you’re not comfortable doing it yourself. Or you can visit a trusted mechanic and ask them to check over the battery system for you. Lastly, jumper cables and/or an appropriate jump box are a great idea to have on hand in case something unexpected happens.