Summer is just around the corner and we're sure you're just itching to get your super Chevy back on the road. But there's more to starting off another musclecar season than rolling up the garage door and heading off into the afternoon sunshine-a safe and hopefully carefree start to the driving season requires a couple hours' worth of preparation and minor maintenance.
Since I'm originally from New England, my pride and joy spent quite a few months holed up in my garage every year awaiting warm, dry weather. I'd go through a routine prior to each season's maiden voyage. It's certainly not rocket science, but it is important and well worth the minor effort. I used a short checklist I made for myself that covered the few items I wanted to check: battery, oil and filter, brake fluid and lines, lights, fuel and air filters, brake cylinders, axle seals, tires, and tire pressure, etc.
After removing the car cover, the first task is to check the battery. For years I used a Hydrometer purchased from my local parts store. I later graduated to a voltmeter I'd use across the terminals. A fully charged 12-volt battery should show a range of 13.5 to 14.5 volts with no load. A lower reading could mean a partial discharge, which most times can be handled by a few hours of trickle (low amperage) charging. It's a task that can be handled while you check the remaining items on your checklist.
While the battery was on the charger I'd give the engine compartment a once-over, checking the condition of the belts and hoses (looking for cracks and signs of wear), exposed wiring (for frayed insulation or corroded connections), air filter (since I was under the hood anyway), and brake fluid level. Speaking of brake fluid, it's a good idea to flush the brake system and replace the fluid every couple of seasons, as a vehicle that sits for long periods is more likely to succumb to brake-fluid contamination than one that sees constant use. Dirty-looking and/or cloudy fluid should be changed as a matter of course. While you're under the hood, it's a good idea to flush and refill the cooling system, as well (keep in mind that antifreeze is poisonous to your pets, so handle it with care and dispose of it properly-you don't want to waste precious driving time explaining to the missus why Fifi is napping so soundly).
A few of my cars still ran point-style ignitions at the time. If your vehicle is so equipped, keep in mind that points are prone to corrosion and can cause starting and drivability problems if they've sat unused for extended periods. Also, replace that condenser, also. Eyeball your plug wires to make sure they're tightly loomed and show no signs of burn-through or cracking, and do the same to the underside of the distributor cap, looking for signs of condensation and/or corroded rotor contacts.
An engine oil and filter change is a must at this point, even if one was done prior to putting the car away for the winter (fresh oil for storage is a good idea as it will stand up to laying idle better than old oil that's burned up its additives). Fresh fluid and filter are recommended for that automatic transmission, too. This will prevent varnishing and contamination from moisture and wear, a good idea for cars that see limited but hard use. In vehicles that see really limited use or that sit for long periods of time between uses, there is a tendency for the seals in the automatic transmission to dry out and/or shrink. This condition won't always come to light as a leak, but may become apparent as sluggish shifting or poor performance. A dose of trans conditioner at fluid-change time will help keep those gaskets and seals pliable and extend their life.
A routine brake inspection is a smart move, as well. Check your pads and shoes for wear along with the drums and rotors for galling. While you're checking out those rear brakes, look for signs of leaky axle seals or a buildup of sludge (a mixture of differential lube and brake dust) on or around the center of the backing plates. While you're at it, look for signs of leaky wheel cylinders.
If all looks well and/or you've taken care of anything that appeared to need mechanical attention, it's now time to do a walkaround to check tire wear and air pressures. Look for dry rot (more typical in older bias-ply OEM-style tires) on the sidewalls, and don't forget those rubber valve stems.
By this time your battery should be up to snuff (if charging was needed), so it's time to fire it up and roll it out into the driveway for the final walkaround before takeoff. This is where a helping hand from the missus comes along (a pleasant task if we've kept Fifi out of the antifreeze). Have her walk around the car checking the lights-brake signal, high beams, etc.-while you operate the switches and brake pedal. If all looks well, it's time for her to shut the garage door, hop in the car, and share your first foray into a brand-new musclecar season. Enjoy!