Learn How to Detail Your Car Just Like a Pro

Detailing Tricks Route 66 Cleaning Products

Ah, summer, what a great time of year. The sun is up, the shows are in full swing, birds are out crapping, and your car is probably in need of a little clean up. No matter if your ride has been sitting in a garage waiting for the sun or been out in the elements, it's going to need a comprehensive detailing. We are sure you know how to wash your ride, but there is always some knowledge to be learned even on the simplest of subjects. This story will map out how to clean like a detail freak and prepare your ride for the next show or cruise night.

No detailing story would be complete without a vehicle, and for that we are going to use Sam Head's '56. The car was painted a couple of years ago, but has been in storage since completion. There isn't any oxidation to remove, but the paint needs to be protected to maintain that shine. Also, along the way a few things have found their way onto the paint job like minor scratches and some fall out.

For all the products in this story, we decided to make a one-stop shopping trip to Route 66 Motorsports, the restoration and custom car-building giants who built the Super Chevy Project American Heroes II Camaro and the Project American Heroes III Chevelle. The complete line of Route 66 Exotic Coatings car care products, including waxes, polishes, and accessories, can be ordered on its website and shipped to your door. Enthusiasts made this stuff for enthusiasts right here in the U.S.A. We picked up one bottle of each product, an assortment of micorfiber towels and applicators, a wash bucket with a grit guard in the bottom, a microfiber wash mitt, a vent brush and some detailing clay. It took all of these products, a whole day, and a lot of elbow grease to get the '56 ready for cruise night, but it was well worth it. We think that is enough with the blah, blah; let's move on to the work.

There is not a lot to think about when it comes to just washing the car, but here are a few tips to get you started on the right path. First off, don’t use dish soap as it’s too aggressive for auto paint. It also strips the wax right off the finish, so pick up a bottle of vehicle-specific soap. Also, get a bucket that has a grit guard in the bottom to keep the mitt from sitting in the dirt sediment. Speaking of mitts, a microfiber mitt holds loads of soap and is very delicate on the paint.
There is not a lot to think about when it comes to just washing the car, but here are a fe
Give the car an initial rinse off with the hose before grabbing the wash mitt. This will remove or soften any loose dust and dirt stuck to the surface. Wash the car from bottom to top out of direct sunlight if possible. Working from bottom to top will prevent the soapy water from running down the side of the car and possibly drying on the surface. If you don’t have a shady spot to work in then you will need to wash and rinse one section at a time and keep the whole car wet during the washing process.
Give the car an initial rinse off with the hose before grabbing the wash mitt. This will r
Once everything is washed, take off the hose nozzle and flood the car. The water’s surface tension will sheet off most of the water, leaving a lot less on the car that you will need to remove with a microfiber drying towel. Once the car was dry, we pulled it into the shop to let the paint cool while we addressed the wheels.
Once everything is washed, take off the hose nozzle and flood the car. The water’s surface

We used a second bucket and soft rag to wash the wheels before attacking them with polish. This will prevent you from getting any of the harsh brake dust on your good wash mitt. Because polishing a whole wheel by hand just sucks, we used the wheel and rim polishing tool. This tool will cut your polishing time in half if not more and works best in a drill spinning about 500 rpm. After adding some Pedal To The Metal polish to the rim, we worked the tool around any part we could get to.
We used a second bucket and soft rag to wash the wheels before attacking them with polish.
For the areas the tool won’t fit, you can use your hand (preferably inside a glove). You will be surprised that this works just as well as using a rag, plus the polish will last a lot longer as the glove isn’t porous. Try it and you will see what we are talking about.
For the areas the tool won’t fit, you can use your hand (preferably inside a glove). You w
After the rim is all shined up, you have two choices when it comes to tire dressing. The Burn-Out gel will give you a wet look for an extended period of time. The Drive-In rubber and tire shine will give you a dry to the touch sheen while providing some UV protection as well. We went with the Drive-In because we like our tires to have a satin sheen instead of the wet look. The Large Contoured Tire Applicator made evenly spreading the stuff nice and easy.
After the rim is all shined up, you have two choices when it comes to tire dressing. The B

After washing, we walked around the car looking for scratches and we found a few minor ones near the headlight. These scratches would barley catch our fingernail when rubbed over, letting us know they are probably just in the clear.
After washing, we walked around the car looking for scratches and we found a few minor one
We grabbed the Highway 2 Shine, Scratch and Swirl Remover and a microfiber applicator. This stuff is made with diminishing abrasives, which leaves you with a swirl-free finish. It works best when applied with a D/A or high-speed polisher, but you can also apply it by hand.
We grabbed the Highway 2 Shine, Scratch and Swirl Remover and a microfiber applicator. Thi

After working the area, the scratches were gone and since the stuff has diminishing abrasives it cut the heavy scratches and then became a micro polish. This means we won’t need to polish this area with another step before putting on some wax.
After working the area, the scratches were gone and since the stuff has diminishing abrasi
The wash will remove the loose stuff, but for the harder, more stubborn contaminants we used the Blue Detailing clay and Quick Change spray detailer. To use the clay, form it into what looks like a hamburger patty, spray the clay and the paint surface with the Spray Detailer, and then rub the clay in a circular motion. The clay will grab anything stuck to the paint and hold it, leaving the finish nice and smooth. Before starting on a new section, fold the piece over and knead it back into shape.
The wash will remove the loose stuff, but for the harder, more stubborn contaminants we us
Now that the surface is free from scratches and surface contaminants, it is time to put down some protection. A final application of a good wax is needed to seal in the shine and protect the paint from the elements. The American Muscle Carnauba Wax is a soft, golden banana wax, which contains detergent-resistant polymers. This carnauba wax is formulated with both natural carnauba and silicone resins. This blend will provide both lustrous gloss and long-lasting protection. The high level of carnauba resin helps produce a hard, durable finish that resists the elements for months.
Now that the surface is free from scratches and surface contaminants, it is time to put do

Thanks to the Gripper handle from Route 66 (the thing stuck to the pad) laying down an even coat of wax was a lot easier. When it comes to waxing, we recommend applying the wax in small, overlapping circles. This will help spread the product nice and even. The best way to tell if the wax is dry is to wipe it with your finger. If the wax doesn’t smear, it’s dry. Once it is dry, wipe it off with a microfiber towel. You will most likely need a few microfibers to remove all the wax so make sure to have plenty on hand before you start.
Thanks to the Gripper handle from Route 66 (the thing stuck to the pad) laying down an eve
With the outside complete, it was time to focus our attention on the interior. This car has leather seats and door panels and a painted dash. Not shown in the photos was the painted dash that was treated the same as the exterior and the carpet was vacuumed. Remember when working with leather that it was once a living thing and needs to be cleaned and conditioned the right way to make it last. We really like the Survivor Leather Cleaner because it is pH-balanced for leather, allowing for the most efficient cleaning without damaging it. Before cleaning the entire seat, test an inconspicuous area just in case it removes the dye on your leather. It probably won’t, but its better to be safe than sorry.
With the outside complete, it was time to focus our attention on the interior. This car ha
After cleaning you will want to condition the leather to prevent it from drying out and eventually crack or tear. The Survivor Leather Conditioner will do just that, but has the added bonus of leaving the surface non-greasy and extra dry. It is formulated with stain repellants and waterproofing agents as well that aid in the protection of leather even further.
After cleaning you will want to condition the leather to prevent it from drying out and ev

For small nooks and tight areas, the vent brush worked great. It got rid of the dust and dirt in the seams that are all over this dash a lot better than trying to do it with a rag.
For small nooks and tight areas, the vent brush worked great. It got rid of the dust and d
Spray Detailer and a microfiber were used to clean up the doorjambs and engine compartment. For areas that fingers won’t fit, try wrapping the microfiber around a paint stir stick.
Spray Detailer and a microfiber were used to clean up the doorjambs and engine compartment
This car has a half-wrap aluminum steering wheel so we have aluminum butted right up against leather. Metal polish and leather don’t get along very well so there are two options that are tolerable when it comes to something like this. You can unbolt the leather ring from the wheel or just simply mask it off before polishing.
This car has a half-wrap aluminum steering wheel so we have aluminum butted right up again

When it comes to cleaning glass, make sure to get a window cleaner that is safe for tinted windows if applicable. Second, wipe the outside of the glass in a horizontal motion and the inside with a vertical. That way if you do have streaks you know what side of the glass they are on. Don’t use paper towels as they leave glue streaks on the glass. Old timers like the editor use black & white newspapers for extra gloss. (They don’t streak, either.)
When it comes to cleaning glass, make sure to get a window cleaner that is safe for tinted