Tricks & Tips To Detailing Your Car Like a Pro - OCD-Obsessive Compulsive Detailing

After washing, we walked around the car looking for scratches and we found a few minor ones near the headlight. These scratches would barley catch our fingernail when rubbed over, letting us know they are probably just in the clear.

We grabbed the Highway 2 Shine, Scratch and Swirl Remover and a microfiber applicator. This stuff is made with diminishing abrasives, which leaves you with a swirl-free finish. It works best when applied with a D/A or high-speed polisher, but you can also apply it by hand.

After working the area, the scratches were gone and since the stuff has diminishing abrasives it cut the heavy scratches and then became a micro polish. This means we won’t need to polish this area with another step before putting on some wax.

The wash will remove the loose stuff, but for the harder, more stubborn contaminants we used the Blue Detailing clay and Quick Change spray detailer. To use the clay, form it into what looks like a hamburger patty, spray the clay and the paint surface with the Spray Detailer, and then rub the clay in a circular motion. The clay will grab anything stuck to the paint and hold it, leaving the finish nice and smooth. Before starting on a new section, fold the piece over and knead it back into shape.

Now that the surface is free from scratches and surface contaminants, it is time to put down some protection. A final application of a good wax is needed to seal in the shine and protect the paint from the elements. The American Muscle Carnauba Wax is a soft, golden banana wax, which contains detergent-resistant polymers. This carnauba wax is formulated with both natural carnauba and silicone resins. This blend will provide both lustrous gloss and long-lasting protection. The high level of carnauba resin helps produce a hard, durable finish that resists the elements for months.

Thanks to the Gripper handle from Route 66 (the thing stuck to the pad) laying down an even coat of wax was a lot easier. When it comes to waxing, we recommend applying the wax in small, overlapping circles. This will help spread the product nice and even. The best way to tell if the wax is dry is to wipe it with your finger. If the wax doesn’t smear, it’s dry. Once it is dry, wipe it off with a microfiber towel. You will most likely need a few microfibers to remove all the wax so make sure to have plenty on hand before you start.

With the outside complete, it was time to focus our attention on the interior. This car has leather seats and door panels and a painted dash. Not shown in the photos was the painted dash that was treated the same as the exterior and the carpet was vacuumed. Remember when working with leather that it was once a living thing and needs to be cleaned and conditioned the right way to make it last. We really like the Survivor Leather Cleaner because it is pH-balanced for leather, allowing for the most efficient cleaning without damaging it. Before cleaning the entire seat, test an inconspicuous area just in case it removes the dye on your leather. It probably won’t, but its better to be safe than sorry.

After cleaning you will want to condition the leather to prevent it from drying out and eventually crack or tear. The Survivor Leather Conditioner will do just that, but has the added bonus of leaving the surface non-greasy and extra dry. It is formulated with stain repellants and waterproofing agents as well that aid in the protection of leather even further.

For small nooks and tight areas, the vent brush worked great. It got rid of the dust and dirt in the seams that are all over this dash a lot better than trying to do it with a rag.

Spray Detailer and a microfiber were used to clean up the doorjambs and engine compartment. For areas that fingers won’t fit, try wrapping the microfiber around a paint stir stick.

This car has a half-wrap aluminum steering wheel so we have aluminum butted right up against leather. Metal polish and leather don’t get along very well so there are two options that are tolerable when it comes to something like this. You can unbolt the leather ring from the wheel or just simply mask it off before polishing.

When it comes to cleaning glass, make sure to get a window cleaner that is safe for tinted windows if applicable. Second, wipe the outside of the glass in a horizontal motion and the inside with a vertical. That way if you do have streaks you know what side of the glass they are on. Don’t use paper towels as they leave glue streaks on the glass. Old timers like the editor use black & white newspapers for extra gloss. (They don’t streak, either.)