There are always going to be discussions about which is the best Chevelle ever produced. Some like the boxy lines of the early stuff, while others gravitate toward the rounder later models. Hopefully we can all agree that the 1970 SS fitted with the 450hp LS6 was the peak of Chevelle power. All the Chevelles before and after had less steam, so this year holds a special place in more than a few greasy gearheads' hearts. Even though GM produced over 300,000 two-door Chevelles in 1970 it's still difficult to find one on the cheap. If you look to the '71-72 models, there are more than 400,000 built between those two years so there is more opportunity to find a low-buck one to use as a project.
So what is a grease monkey supposed to do if his heart is set on a '70 but can only locate the later versions? Convert it. This is the case with a customer of B.S. Industries in Sun Valley, California. The owner wanted a '70 but found a '71 for a reasonable price. When we spoke with Bodie Stroud, owner of B.S., he let us know about this conversion he was about to start. We jumped in with both feet to cover the job and show what parts it takes to complete the conversion.
Now for all you purists out there, please don't get upset. This conversion is not being done to cheat anybody. There's nothing wrong with '71-72 Chevelles, but as we all know the best car to own is the one you actually want. The car is already fitted with a Schwartz Performance chassis and a few other non-factory upgrades, so there is no way this car will be mistaken for an original anyway.
Bodie likes to use quality parts for his builds, and this one is no different. He ordered everything for the job from Original Parts Group except for one part that he nabbed off of eBay. "It was nice to be able to get everything from a single supplier," says Bodie.
We stopped by the shop on multiple days as the work progressed to get all the pictures. If this Chevelle turns out as nice as the rest of Bodie's builds, you will be able to see the finished product as a feature.
|PZ00607||Front Fender (left)||309.95|
|PZ00608||Front Fender (right)||309.95|
|C990301||Fender Extension (left)||62.95|
|C990302||Fender Extension (right)||62.95|
|CH28227||Front Fender Extension Hardware Set (34-piece)||25.95|
|KR02116||SS Hood, Steel (w/o cowl induction)||299.95|
|C990171||Back Edge Hood Molding SS or Cowl-induction||45.95|
|RMS170||Grille Kit (black)||225.99|
|PZ00042||Super Sport Grille Emblem||39.95|
|GM1440C||Exterior Screw Set||17.95|
|CH4056||Headlight Adjusting Kit||29.95|
|PZ00249||Headlight Retaining Ring (4)||46.00|
|K67562||Headlight Bezel Kit||199.95|
|KR02122||Front Marker Assembly Kit||39.95|
|CH9210||Inner Fender Hardware Kit (56-piece)||32.95|
|CH26020||Front Bumper Brackets (4-piece)||139.95|
|CH25461||SS Park Lamp Assembly (clear), 2 ea||119.90|
|KRB285||SS Rear Bumper Kit (complete)||289.95|
|CH25746||Rear Bumper Brackets (4-piece)||126.95|
|PK3565||Bumper Bolt Kit||19.95|
|CH26466||Taillight Lens Set||109.95|
|PSG014||Taillight Lens Gasket Set||4.95|
|C99069||Fender Tie Bar||59.95|
|PZ00631||Inner Fender (left)||139.95|
|PZ00632||Inner Fender (right)||139.95|
|C990172||Back Edge Fender Molding||29.95|
|C211071||Hood Adjuster Bolt Kit||13.95|
|CH28180||Hood Latch Support||42.99|
|CH27334||Hood Latch Assembly||84.95|
|CH28134||Bumper Filler Panel (lower rear)||83.99|
|GBC0203||Headlight Mounting Bucket (outer), 2 ea||79.90|
|GBC0201||Headlight Mounting Bucket (inner), 2 ea||79.90|
|eBay||Grille Mounting Bracket||39.00|
1 Here are all the components (see sidebar for breakdown and pricing) picked up to transf
2 The car is in the initial mock-up phase, so please excuse some of the rusty parts, mism
3 The core support can now be placed on the framerails and the rubber mounts loosely inst
4 A must for saving your sanity during any front clip install is new nut clips and bolts.
5 You could hang the fender and then the wheelwell, but it’s much easier to drop the inne
6 With the wheelwell in place, the fender can then be installed. Again, do not tighten an
7 After the other side is assembled and the hood hinges bolted to the fenders, the hood c
8 Now the front clip was squared up and all the lines set. While this is a short sentence
9 These bumpers up front are used to set the hood height and are best adjusted without th
10 Now all the hardware for the front clip can be tightened up, like these bolts on the f
11 Now is a good time to throw in the front marker lights since you have full access with
12 The hood latch assembly and center grille support mount to the fender tie bar and the
22 Having new stuff makes life so nice. The new bumper brackets fit like a glove. Don’t g
23 Minus the actual headlights, the front clip is done. While it looks just like a 1970 S
24 Now we move to the back of the car to complete the visual conversion. Out back, the ’7
13 The headlight assemblies come next. The adjuster inserts just pop into the core suppor
14 The adjuster screws come next and simply thread into the adjuster inserts. There is a
15 Once the stainless trim rings are screwed on, the lower valance can be installed. It b
25 … followed by the lower bracket.
26 Then the taillight bucket assembly can be mounted to the bumper.
27 Now for one of the most iconic parts of the ’70: the rear bumper pad. In the past thes
16 The outer grille bracket mounts between the upper and lower valance. There is a left a
17 The grille needs a little assembly before being installed on the car. The outer stainl
18 The grille is held in place by six Phillips screws.
19 The headlight extensions are next. As you can see, some of the black coating has been
20 Now it’s time for some shiny stuff—the marker light assemblies screw directly to the b
21 And the gasket and lenses follow. If you were restoring a non-SS then these lenses wou
28 While you could put it on crooked, it would be pretty hard. Just line up the area arou
29 Now the bumper can be slipped onto the car.
30 The lower valance is the last piece of this conversion puzzle. Again, this piece has b
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