On the surface, it didn't look like the tailpan area of our '55 was in that bad a shape. But once we dug into it, Bondo and body rot quickly came to the surface.On the surface, it didn't look like the tailpan area of our '55 was in that bad a shape. B Unless it's been kept in a bubble or climate-controlled garage since new, most 55-year-old cars are going to have some rust. In the case of our project '55, we have more than just some. Over five decades of living its life outside have given our hardtop a decent case of cancer in the usual areas where Tri-Fives like to rot. Fortunately, the continuing popularity of '55-57 Chevys means the aftermarket has plenty of new steel to fix the ills of any ailing shoebox. The first and most well-known company in the Tri-Five aftermarket, Danchuk, has almost everything you need to bring your Bel Air, 210, or 150 back to factory-fresh condition, and that's who we went to for our '55 two-door hardtop. After inspecting the car stem to stern, we raided the Danchuk catalog for the sheetmetal needed to get the Bel Air fixed up. With metal in hand, the crew at Classic Automotive Restoration Specialists (CARS) broke out the cutoff wheels, air chisels, and welding equipment and got to work while we snapped the pictures. Over the next several issues, we'll show you step-by-step how to repair the metal on your Tri-Five. Even if you don't have a '55 like ours, a lot of what we'll show you can carry over to the '56 and '57s, too. This area where the factory lead seams are was starting to bulge and crack, signs of trouble below...This area where the factory lead seams are was starting to bulge and crack, signs of troub ...To remove the outer tailpan, first we needed to cook out the factory lead sealer and see what was underneath....To remove the outer tailpan, first we needed to cook out the factory lead sealer and se If you're doing this in your home garage/shop, you'll need a bottle of MAP gas for cooking out the lead seam filler. MAP gas always comes in yellow bottles (as opposed to blue for propane), and burns hotter than propane, necessary to melt the lead out. Don't use a torch for this operation, as it will burn too hot and warp the metal in the area you're working.If you're doing this in your home garage/shop, you'll need a bottle of MAP gas for cooking It didn't take long for the lead filler to start oozing from the joint under flame from the MAP gas. Because lead is involved here, be sure to wear a filter mask to guard against inhaling any lead vapors while you're working on the seam. Later on we'll replace the lead seam sealer with a modern, environmentally and health-friendly substitute.It didn't take long for the lead filler to start oozing from the joint under flame from th After melting away lead and Bondo, not much metal was left around the seam. At one point the putty knife sliced right through the metal while scraping.After melting away lead and Bondo, not much metal was left around the seam. At one point t Moving up, the lead was melted out of the upper seam above the taillight. We're going to be replacing the inner part of this area in a later story, so we went ahead and took care of melting the seams out. If you're not sure where the seams are in your panels, a factory shop/body manual will come in very handy.Moving up, the lead was melted out of the upper seam above the taillight. We're going to b One more seam on the '55's corner is right down the middle below the taillight. This is a thin seam without as much lead as the upper and lower main seams.One more seam on the '55's corner is right down the middle below the taillight. This is a On the passenger side, we were melting away more Bondo than lead, not a good sign about the condition of the tailpan area.On the passenger side, we were melting away more Bondo than lead, not a good sign about th Going across the outer tail pan, we were knocking away half- inch thick chunks of Bondo, and finding paper thin, rusted metal beneath. Fortunately we've got a new piece from Danchuk to replace this mess.Going across the outer tail pan, we were knocking away half- inch thick chunks of Bondo, a After a cleaning with a wire brush, the horror was sickening. Time and the moisture trapping properties of the lead filler and Bondo had taken a bad toll on the tailpan.After a cleaning with a wire brush, the horror was sickening. Time and the moisture trappi Tommy Barber of CARS spun up the cutoff wheel and began removing the cancerous outer metal so we could get to the inner tailpan/rear body mount area.Tommy Barber of CARS spun up the cutoff wheel and began removing the cancerous outer metal Peeling away the outer piece, we found more holes in the inner structure than a piece of Swiss cheese. Don't be alarmed if you find something similar. The replacement part from Danchuk takes care of everything.Peeling away the outer piece, we found more holes in the inner structure than a piece of S Underneath the old outer tailpan, we found evidence of a decades-old repair from some sort of rear end collision, where patch metal had been hastily welded in place.Underneath the old outer tailpan, we found evidence of a decades-old repair from some sort Barf! Here's another close-up of the inner area showing how bad things were. This area is actually made up of two individual pieces of metal, both of which we'll be replacing.Barf! Here's another close-up of the inner area showing how bad things were. This area is Moving over to the driver-side corner, Tommy began cutting away some of the inner corner to make it easier when drilling out the upper spot welds.Moving over to the driver-side corner, Tommy began cutting away some of the inner corner t A good look inside the driver-side fender revealed another past repair, probably related to the '60s corner-cut job after the car had been hit in that area sometime during the Johnson or Nixon administration. We'll be handling this problem in a later story.A good look inside the driver-side fender revealed another past repair, probably related t Tommy Barber of CARS spun up the cutoff wheel and began removing the cancerous outer metal so we could get to the inner tailpan/rear body mount area.Tommy Barber of CARS spun up the cutoff wheel and began removing the cancerous outer metal After marking out what metal needed to be removed (we wouldn't have to use all of the Danchuk replacement metal), Tommy began cutting so we could get the rotted steel out of the way. Having a good complement of air tools, including a cutoff wheel, is a must for this job.After marking out what metal needed to be removed (we wouldn't have to use all of the Danc Before joining the two new Danchuk pieces together for installation, weld through zinc primer was applied to the mating surfaces. When built at the factory, these two pieces didn't receive any treatment like this, hence our rust issue. The zinc primer means moisture won't be able to attack the new steel, but still allows for proper welding.Before joining the two new Danchuk pieces together for installation, weld through zinc pri Once the last cut was made, the old inner mount/trunk end came free. Before installing the new metal, we'll do some dressing and cleaning back here before welding everything in.Once the last cut was made, the old inner mount/trunk end came free. Before installing the Ready to go, the new rear body mount/rear trunk floor area was located and tack welded in place. We only tack welded in case we have to make any adjustments when welding in the new inner fender corner pieces on both sides. We also have to transfer the trunk latch and guide pieces to the new metal. All of this will be covered in our next installment.Ready to go, the new rear body mount/rear trunk floor area was located and tack welded in SOURCES Classic Automotive Restoration Specialists Inc. 8235 Nautical Point Drive Belews Creek NC 27009 336-595-3900 www.classicautomotiverestoration.com Danchuk 3201 South Standard Avenue Santa Ana CA 92705 800-648-9554 www.danchuk.com By Patrick Hill Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!
