Whether it's rotted metal or a blonde on a cell phone plowing into your car, bad things do happen to vehicles. In this case, our '66 Nova SS had rot in the lower quarter-panels, not to mention the poor bodywork done decades ago was starting to fall apart. It was time for some serious restoration work to be done to this Nova. Part of the work we are specifically focusing on is replacing of the rear driver's side quarter panel.
After a phone call to Goodmark Industries, a replacement quarter-panel and rocker was ordered and shipped. When it arrived five days later our fun began. Let's go over a few points before we start cutting and grinding on the Nova. Properly fitting a new panel to your vehicle is not like slipping on a set of tube socks. Yeah, we wish it was that easy, but it's not. Lots of trimming of the panel, grinding, and test fitting is involved. Let's not forget to mention the right tools you'll need to get the job done. Of course, this may be the best excuse in the world to justify getting the latest gizmo and widget combo set.
Should you decide to skip the whole home improvement experience, a job like this at an experienced shop would require anywhere from 10-16 man hours. That translates to roughly $1,200-1,500 in labor costs; keep in mind this is just one panel on the vehicle and we are guestimating on the low side.
It's very likely that many reading this are the do-it yourself type. It's also likely that many are on a budget tighter than a wrestler's outfit, so installing the panel yourself is the only option. We found ourselves at Harrison's Restorations and watched them do all the work. Let's condense 16 hours of work into a few pages and watch how they did it.
 Here is the reason we are...  Here is the reason we are replacing the panels on this Nova. The panel was already replaced, most likely decades ago,... |  ...and was starting to come...  ...and was starting to come apart at the seams. Also, in the very bottom some body cancer is starting to show itself. |  The panel being replaced was...  The panel being replaced was sanded along the edges to check the metal and see what shape it's in. If we are lucky, some parts will not need replacing and we'll simply trim to fit. |
 Now, it's time for the fun...  Now, it's time for the fun stuff to begin. Using an air chisel that is designed to cut sheetmetal, the old panel gets sliced off. If you had any doubts before this, it's too late now-you're committed! While cutting, body technician Roy Landgrave deliberately left more metal than necessary. You can always go back and cut more off, but if you cut too much off, a time machine is your only hope at correcting that mistake. Also be careful you don't accidentally trim other panels behind this or where they are double joined. |  This is how it should look...  This is how it should look when you are done. As we mentioned earlier, don't trim it all off... |  ...In some cases it may be...  ...In some cases it may be better to trim down the new panel and fit to size. Also we included a photo of the tip of the chisel. |
 From the box here are the...  From the box here are the panels and they appear to be in good shape. Goodmark always recommends checking the panels for any possible shipping damage before signing for them. |  Up on top of the quarter panel,...  Up on top of the quarter panel, more rivers of brass were found. We also discovered that more of the original quarter panel existed than we had thought. It had been folded under and the new panel lapped over top of it. This actually worked to our advantage. |  Now that the panel is gone,...  Now that the panel is gone, finding the spot welds that held it in is next. We sanded away all remaining paint and primer in order to locate the spot welds and either drill them or grind them out. |
 Ugh-after everything was ground...  Ugh-after everything was ground away, we discovered that whoever replaced this panel years ago filled it with brass brazing. Instead of easily drilling out factory spot welds our technician had to deal with rivers of brass brazing. Simply put, it took a lot more work to remove the brass and ultimately the panel. |  Now that the brass has been...  Now that the brass has been ground out,... |  ...the panel can be separated...  ...the panel can be separated and removed. This took some time to accomplish. |
 After discovering we had more...  After discovering we had more original material to work with, we ground out all the old brass brazing. It's now time for another test fit. Now we can trim down the new Goodmark panel for a perfect butted joint. |  With everything cut and trimmed,...  With everything cut and trimmed, the Goodmark panel is ready for install. Before that happens, everything that you see here was coated with Por-15 to provide us with additional rust protection. That, however, is another tech story for another day. |  After all the test fitting...  After all the test fitting and trimming, it was time for the real thing. One of the cool new tools used in the body industry are Cleco Clips. The use of Cleco Clips came from the aircraft industry and have been adapted for use in the automotive industry. ... |
 ...First an 1/8th-inch hole...  ...First an 1/8th-inch hole is drilled into the sheetmetal. You will notice in this series of photos that when the clip is fully expanded its metal prongs elongate and become slender. As the... |  ...pliers are released the...  ...pliers are released the prongs retreat back into the base of the clip and while retreating they expand wider than an 1/8th of an inch. Any sheetmetal that is in between gets pinched together.... |  ...Cleco Clips are reusable...  ...Cleco Clips are reusable and are a big advantage for tacking the sheetmetal, compared to using sheetmetal screws. Once the Cleco clips are removed the 1/8th-inch hole is welded with the mig. |
 You can see the Cleco Clips...  You can see the Cleco Clips and how they are holding the sheetmetal in place. It sure beats using a C-clamp. |  The tape in this picture represents...  The tape in this picture represents the cut line. Remember the sheetmetal is overlapping. Once it is cut, we should have a perfect butt joint that is ready for stitch welding. |  The panel is pulled off one...  The panel is pulled off one more time, and the 1/8th-inch holes made for the Cleco clips on the B-pillar are drilled out with a 1/4-inch drill. This allows the holes to be plug welded. |
 After cutting, you can see...  After cutting, you can see how... |  ...well everything should...  ...well everything should fit together. It's a perfect butt joint. |  Now it's stitching time. This...  Now it's stitching time. This process is where patience needs to be exercised. If we were to move to quickly and start stitching everything in a hurry, heat buildup will occur. If heat builds up in the quarter panel, it is guaranteed to warp. While stitch welding we used the flat end of a screwdriver to adjust the elevation of the two joining pieces of metal, creating an even and smooth surface. |
 We deliberately stitch welded...  We deliberately stitch welded a 6-inch section to illustrate how the panel should be finished off. Stitch welding is tedious and can take hours to complete. |  After stitching, grind the...  After stitching, grind the tak welds down and repeat the process until it is seamless... |  ...Remember to alternate your...  ...Remember to alternate your welds. Tak weld in one spot then move to another section and... |
 ...lay down another tac weld....  ...lay down another tac weld. It's the best way to avoid heat buildup. |  Here is the finished product,...  Here is the finished product, shot in etching primer. If you follow all methods you will have a quarter-panel that is the envy of all your neighbors. | |