The new temp sensor will go right where the factory idiot light sensor is-get ready for a little mess. Coolant will come rushing out of the hole when the sensor comes out of the head, swap them out quickly to minimize the mess. Again, don't use any thread sealant.The new temp sensor will go right where the factory idiot light sensor is-get ready for a The new sensor takes a ring terminal as opposed to a slip-on like the original so we crimped on a ring terminal end to the factory wire.The new sensor takes a ring terminal as opposed to a slip-on like the original so we crimp The new cluster has two harnesses that need to be hooked up to the wiring in the car. The first one is called the speed/tach harness shown here. We put a few small tags on each wire so we didn't have to keep looking back at the schematic.The new cluster has two harnesses that need to be hooked up to the wiring in the car. The There are some wires that won't be used for this application so those were grouped together and eventually pulled from the harness plug.There are some wires that won't be used for this application so those were grouped togethe The wires that go to the main harness will need to be terminated with the provided terminals and snapped into the harness plug. These take a specific type of terminal pliers, so you might need to buy or borrow a set before tackling the job.The wires that go to the main harness will need to be terminated with the provided termina You might have a hard time getting the terminals to snap into the plug. A small set of tweezers will help push the terminal all the way in until you hear a click. The last thing that needs to be dealt with as far as wiring goes is the function/set up button. One end will be hooked to a ground and the other end to the brown wire of the speed/tach harness. The button needs to be installed in an easily accessible location. We drilled a small hole under the dash to the right of the steering column and put the button there. We could still reach it while driving but it's out of plain view. This button will be used to put the gauge cluster into set up mode to calibrate the tach and the speedo, but more on this in a second.The last thing that needs to be dealt with as far as wiring goes is the function/set up bu The BelEra II assembly can now be taken to the car and wire harnesses... ...and chassis grounds hooked up. Since the cluster is in the stock bezel reinstallation will be a snap. Put in the two upper screws...Since the cluster is in the stock bezel reinstallation will be a snap. Put in the two uppe ...slide the column back up, and reinstall the lower trim piece and you are ready to set up the tach and speedo gauges....slide the column back up, and reinstall the lower trim piece and you are ready to set u Because the gauges can work with so many different styles of inputs, you will need to tell the cluster what you have. To do this you push and hold the button, start the car, release the button, and cycle through each parameter by tapping the button, which is clearly explained in the instructions. Basically, you need to tell the tach that the motor is an 8-cylinder and calibrate the speedo in one of two fashions: 1. Drive a marked mile, or, 2. Use an external GPS unit that shows current speed. We chose option two. After set up was finished, the gauges worked flawlessly.Because the gauges can work with so many different styles of inputs, you will need to tell The needles sweep smoothly, the fuel gauge was spot on, and the LED lighting really let them shine at night. Now we can sell the extra gauges we had hanging from the dash and enjoy the BelEra II.The needles sweep smoothly, the fuel gauge was spot on, and the LED lighting really let th SOURCES Classic Instruments 1299 M-75 South P.O. Box 411 Boyne City MI 49712 800-575-0461 www.classicinstruments.com « | 1 | 2 | View Full Article By Calin Head Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!