Electrical Wiring Replacement - Getting Wired

Sucp 1206 002 Circuit Rewiring Getting Wired

Completely rewiring a car can be a complex task. Get it wrong and you can damage electronics or even worse, set the car on fire (and nobody wants that). Even though most of us are not electrical experts, the good thing is we don't have to be. Thanks to American Autowire (AA) all the confusing things are taken care of for you. Using years of experience, the company will determine the correct wire gauge, length, and color-coding for your car. So if you are comfortable reading a schematic and have some common sense, you can rewire your ride.

The first thing you need to consider is how much do you want to pay versus how much work do you want to do. The more work you are willing to take on the less money you will need to pay. American Autowire has many options to wire the same vehicle. Take, for instance, Jim Hurley's '55 Bel Air, which we will be wiring in this story. The company has five wiring kits for this car, from universal to factory replacement and three more kits in between.

Michael Manning, president of American Autowire, explains the different kits his company offers. "If your project is totally custom, a more generic kit such as the Highways Series, Builder series, or Power Plus series kit is in order. The decision here centers on the number of power circuits required and the type of kit design (modular or integrated fuse box kit)," he explains. "Modular kits are represented in our Highway series. They are easier to install because none of the wires are pre-connected to the fuse panel and all power circuits are wired from the outside into the fuse panel, i.e., you place the fuse box and wire everything into it.

"Integrated fuse panel kits are represented by our Power Plus and Builder Series kits. These fuse panels are designed to mount under the dash. All connections are done from the fuse box out requiring termination of each wire at the final connection point. These systems are less flexible in the panel mounting location and do present more routing issues than a modular system. The Classic Update Series kits combine aspects of a generic kit, with those of a vehicle-specific kit. Classic Update kits provide as much plug and play capability as possible, while accommodating the increased circuitry and free routing requirements of a street rod kit design. These kits are designed around a specific group of vehicles. Original switches, heater controls, tail lights, parking lights, factory gauges, and dash design are incorporated into the design of these kits."

Finally, if a true plug-and-play system is required, or the need exists to restore your vehicle to original specifications, the Factory Fit line of harnesses will be your solution.

For this '55, we decided to go with the Power Plus 20 wiring kit. It offers all the circuits we could need, with a few extra. It is budget friendly at $299.00, and it features an updated-style fuse block, while still allowing for some freedom in installation.

Since AA provides a great set of schematics with the wiring kit, we won't go into too much detail on every connection. Instead, we will follow our professional wiring guy Raymond "Lucky" Costa from Mobile Tech doing the job and pass along as many tips on routing and protection as possible.

1 We decided to use the Power Plus 20 Wiring Kit, part number 510008, for Jim's car. There were two reasons we went this route: one is the price. At $299, this wiring kit has a lot of bang for the buck. Two, was we wanted the ability to change the routing of the wiring to hide it all for a cleaner look. The pre-wired fuse box has dedicated circuits for: radio, turn signal, hazard signal, electric fan, brake lights, gauges, headlights, A/C, heater, wipers, parking lights, CB, fuel pump, power seats, power locks, cigarette lighter, power windows, cruise control. The kit features GXL/XLPE (-60 F to 275) heat resistant, GM color-coded, and circuit labeled wire. The kit comes with a great set of color schematics and easy to understand instructions. We also picked up an assortment of the company's brand new wire loom.
1 We decided to use the Power Plus 20 Wiring Kit, part number 510008, for Jim's car. Ther
2 Here is just some of the wiring rat's nest that was in this '55. Not only did the car have intermittent electrical gremlins, like lights flickering, there was also an old alarm system that would decide once in a while to prevent the car from starting. Just those two issues alone could tick off even the mildest-tempered gearhead.
2 Here is just some of the wiring rat's nest that was in this '55. Not only did the car h
3 Want to see more bad electrical work? Check out what we found lurking behind the passenger-side kick panel. Here we have red wires going to blue wires, which makes it hard to trace down an issue, 10-gauge going to 14-gauge, which could possibly overheat the thinner gauge wire, and a bunch of twisted and taped connections that could work loose and create a short.
3 Want to see more bad electrical work? Check out what we found lurking behind the passen

4 Another notable issue we found was too many wires going through holes in the sheetmetal without some sort of protection, like a grommet. This is a short just waiting to happen. At this point, Lucky disconnected the battery and stripped all the wiring out from under the dash. He left all the wiring that goes under the carpet or to the trunk in place at this time because he will use these wires to route his new stuff--but more on that later.
4 Another notable issue we found was too many wires going through holes in the sheetmetal
5 With all the additions to this car, like electric fans, a hot ignition system, and a power seat, the stock fuse block just didn't offer enough protection, so most of these things were either unprotected or ha and external fuse. The new American Autowire fuse block has 20 fused circuits to keep the car safe and even has a few extra in case we want to add something like power windows later.
5 With all the additions to this car, like electric fans, a hot ignition system, and a po
6 Before Lucky installs the fuse panel, he reroutes the wires to exit the top instead of the bottom. He just needed to cut a few zip-ties to do so. Then he separated the harness into the appropriate circuit branches like AA did and installed a few temporary zip-ties.
6 Before Lucky installs the fuse panel, he reroutes the wires to exit the top instead of

7 Lucky installed the panel nice and high on the firewall with two screws, but in a place that is still accessible. Routing the wires out of the top of the panel allows Lucky to run the harness along the top of the dash and out of the way for a cleaner, less cluttered install.
7 Lucky installed the panel nice and high on the firewall with two screws, but in a place
8 Now each circuit branch was unrolled and zip-tied straight. Since the AA kit has the correct steering column plug already installed it simply plugs in.
8 Now each circuit branch was unrolled and zip-tied straight. Since the AA kit has the co
9 Using the included detailed schematic, Lucky started routing each circuit branch out to its specific location. He points out that you can initially string the wires outside the area they will run and install your zip ties, loom or what ever else you are holding the wires together with. This will make running the wires in an area with limited room much easier and allow you to do a cleaner job.
9 Using the included detailed schematic, Lucky started routing each circuit branch out to

10 The AA Power Plus 20 comes with more than just wire; in the box you get an updated dimmer and headlight switch. Even though the new dimmer switch has a different mounting configuration, it will still fit just fine. The OE unit mounts from under the car, while the new unit mounts from the top. The only thing you will need to do is use a small plate to seal the floor before installing the new switch.
10 The AA Power Plus 20 comes with more than just wire; in the box you get an updated dim
11 Even though the kit comes with a new headlight switch, we couldn't use it for this application. The mounting nut is much larger and wouldn't fit inside our bezel, as you can see in the inset photo. The original switch is in working order so Lucky just wired it per the schematic and even reused the plastic terminal covers.
11 Even though the kit comes with a new headlight switch, we couldn't use it for this app
12 Lucky uses a combination of zip-ties, loom, electrical tape, and shrink-wrap to protect and control the circuit branches. This branch is the rear light and gas tank harness and needs to run back into the trunk. Lucky is going to shrink-tube this branch, but first he pulls the wires straight and holds them with small bits of electrical tape.
12 Lucky uses a combination of zip-ties, loom, electrical tape, and shrink-wrap to protec

13 Then he feeds the wire into manageable sections of shrink tube. We say manageable because trying to feed 10 or more feet of wire into shrink tube will be an exercise in aggravation. Lucky works in 2-foot sections at a time and what you are looking at here is the proper way to seam the pieces of shrink tube. After he has one piece fed over the wires, he heats about a 1-inch section. This steps it down and allows the next piece to slip over. Once he applies heat to the rest of the tube, this circuit branch will be ready to feed into the trunk.
13 Then he feeds the wire into manageable sections of shrink tube. We say manageable beca
14 Lucky passes on this tip for running wires under carpet or through tight spaces: Tie the ends of the old wire to the new wire by creating a loop and using tape to hold the loop closed. Then you can carefully use the old wire to pull the new wire to its location (like he is doing here) for the power seat lead. Lucky used this technique to run the wires back to the taillights and fuel tank before installing the proper terminals included in the AA kit.
14 Lucky passes on this tip for running wires under carpet or through tight spaces: Tie t
15 Lucky ran into an issue where some of the wires were a little too short once he got them strung the way he wanted. Instead of using a butt connector, Lucky added extensions by stripping off some of the insulation and then pushing the wire strands together. He then locks it in place with solder. Once the shrink tube is over the splice, it will be good to go and won’t be as noticeable as using butt connectors.
15 Lucky ran into an issue where some of the wires were a little too short once he got th

16 The ignition switch was next. Lucky cut off the excess wire, then installed the provided terminals and covers before plugging them into their respective locations. Again the AA schematic is very simple to read and maps out exactly where each wire goes.
16 The ignition switch was next. Lucky cut off the excess wire, then installed the provid
17 This car features an aftermarket cluster with Auto Meter gauges. To clean this up, Lucky tied all the similar wires together and installed a 9-pin plug he had in stock.
17 This car features an aftermarket cluster with Auto Meter gauges. To clean this up, Luc
18 Now the cluster assembly can be simply unplugged if it ever needs to be serviced or a bulb changed.
18 Now the cluster assembly can be simply unplugged if it ever needs to be serviced or a

19 For the wires that are near heat sources, Lucky uses the AA loom. Shrink tube will continue to shrink in high heat situations, where the loom will stay the same. We are saying near heat sources, as this stuff will melt if it touches the headers. Make sure to keep that in mind when routing.
19 For the wires that are near heat sources, Lucky uses the AA loom. Shrink tube will con
20 For all the wires that come into the engine compartment, Lucky drilled a 1-inch hole right below the distributor and installed a grommet. This location is just about perfect for hiding the wires, yet still allowing them to disperse to all their respective locations. These wires feed the distributor, temp sending unit, and alternator.
20 For all the wires that come into the engine compartment, Lucky drilled a 1-inch hole r
21 For the wiring that needs to go to the front of the car but not the engine (like the headlights and electric fans), Lucky tossed the car on a lift to access the driver's-side inner wheelwell. He drilled a hole in the inner and installed a grommet before passing the wires through.
21 For the wiring that needs to go to the front of the car but not the engine (like the h

22 After that he routed the wires all the way forward and began cutting to length, shrink tubing, and terminating.
22 After that he routed the wires all the way forward and began cutting to length, shrink
23 Lucky attached the main harness to the inner fender hardware with some plastic holders and nuts that threaded over the stock bolts.
23 Lucky attached the main harness to the inner fender hardware with some plastic holders
24 There are a couple things to note in this image. One is the factory rubber boots that come off the turn signals. Lucky retained the boots by using the old wires to draw the new wires through the boots. The second is the wires running under the core support. These are the passenger-side light and electric fan wires. Lucky ran it this way to hide everything out of sight, but not bury it in case anything needs to be serviced.
24 There are a couple things to note in this image. One is the factory rubber boots that

Sucp 1206 030 Circuit Rewiring Getting Wired

25 With that Lucky installed all the fuses, hooked up the battery, and did an initial check of things that are always on like the head and brakelights. They worked as they should, so he turned the key to the run position and checked the key-on accessories, like the turn signals and fuel pump. When those checked out, Lucky turned the key to the Start position and the small-block lit off like a champ. After a few more checks he passed the car back to the owner. Months later, we contacted Jim, the owner. He reported there are no more issues with the car and now it is much nicer to drive since everything works. If, after reading this story, you still can't decide which kit is right for you, check out American Autowire's website, where they have a Wiring Whole Car Quote section in which you answer some questions and a representative will help you decide what is right for your car, budget, and wrenching skills.