Spark plug wires are one of those consumable maintenance items that occasionally need replacing. Over time, the resistance of the wires builds up and they becomes less efficient at transferring the electricity from the distributor to the spark plugs. Besides time, the other factor that can damage a set of wires is improper clearance from the exhaust system. If the wires have the wrong terminal angle on them, it places the wire too close to--or in some cases on--the actual header tube. Such is the case with a '63 Nova into which we recently installed a V-8 under the hood. We employed a set of Sanderson headers and a set of spark plug wires that had 90-degree boots at the spark plug. Well, these boots had us doing all kinds of zip-tie magic to keep the wires away from the header tubes on almost every cylinder. To cure this issue, we looked to MSD and got everything needed to build our own set of wires that would work with the Sanderson headers. The following steps will show you exactly how to build a set of wires, and once you know how to build the wires you can then route them any way your heart desires. 1 Here is how we routed the wire set we got when we did the V-8 swap. Even though it looks like they fit OK, they actually don’t.1 Here is how we routed the wire set we got when we did the V-8 swap. Even though it look 2 Thanks to the 90-degree boots, we had to pull them toward the valve covers to get them to avoid being burned. We would prefer the wires to have clearance without being manipulated with some sort of holder.2 Thanks to the 90-degree boots, we had to pull them toward the valve covers to get them 3 Here are all the ends we needed for this job. The two on the top left are the multi-angle; we just bent one to its max, which turned out to be about 45 degrees. The two 90-degree boots were ordered separately. MSD offers two types of 90-degree boots: a larger one with the MSD logo and a compact version for those really tight spaces. We grabbed these for the number 2 and 4 cylinders, but more on that later. The boots on the right come with the kit and are for either HEI or traditional-type distributor caps.3 Here are all the ends we needed for this job. The two on the top left are the multi-ang 4 For clean looks and extra protection, we also grabbed the shrink sleeve and numbers. The little white numbers come in the kit and can be left on if you like, but we used them for temporary marking of each wire.4 For clean looks and extra protection, we also grabbed the shrink sleeve and numbers. Th 5 The MSD wire separators are no joke. These things are nice and beefy and will keep the wires far enough apart to prevent cross firing if the outer jack happens to get damaged.5 The MSD wire separators are no joke. These things are nice and beefy and will keep the 6 Before you get started, the best thing to do is lay the wires out by length. You will want to save the longer ones for the front cylinders and shorter ones for the back. This is just a rule of thumb—your application or routing needs may differ from this, so all we can say is make sure to get them all routed before you make a single cut.6 Before you get started, the best thing to do is lay the wires out by length. You will w 7 Since all the distributor ends will need to be crimped, go ahead and get the wires on all the plugs and routed up to the distributor the way you like. Putting the distributor boots on the cap does help figuring where to cut the wire. We used the white numbers to temporarily mark each wire so when we take them off to put the ends on we won’t forget which goes where.7 Since all the distributor ends will need to be crimped, go ahead and get the wires on a 8 Since the multi-angles bend to whatever angle needed up to 45 degrees, they are pretty easy to get right and fit just about every cylinder on this Nova.8 Since the multi-angles bend to whatever angle needed up to 45 degrees, they are pretty 9 Unfortunately, there just isn’t enough room for the multi-angle boots to fit between block and inner fender on the two front passenger-side cylinders. These two will be changed out to a 90-degree boot that we ordered separately.9 Unfortunately, there just isn’t enough room for the multi-angle boots to fit between bl 10 This image illustrates why it’s a good idea to have the distributor boot on the cap. It really helps you know exactly where to mark the wire for trimming. We marked the wire dead center of the boot.10 This image illustrates why it’s a good idea to have the distributor boot on the cap. I 11 This picture shows you how the boots and terminal will come together and why we marked it dead center.11 This picture shows you how the boots and terminal will come together and why we marked 12 MSD provides a neat plastic tool that not only gives a guide for slicing the shielding from the wire core but also features a crimping feature when used with a vice. We will be doing a bunch of wires for multiple upcoming projects so we picked up the killer MSD Pro-Crimp Tool. Still, we employed the plastic tool because it has the guide for cutting the outer sleeve properly. The way the little plastic tool is made, all you have to do is slip in the wire, plunge in with a razor until it contacts the tool, and spin the wire. The tool puts the razor at the proper depth to cut the shielding without damaging the core.12 MSD provides a neat plastic tool that not only gives a guide for slicing the shielding 19 Here is what it looks like once both pieces of shrink sleeve are finished.19 Here is what it looks like once both pieces of shrink sleeve are finished. 20 Since we had routed them and snapped them into the separators, all we needed to do was snap each end to its respective spark plug and terminal in a 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 order. Now we have a little more peace of mind knowing our wires won’t burn up and we are sending the maximum spark energy to the plug thanks to MSD’s low-resistance wires.20 Since we had routed them and snapped them into the separators, all we needed to do was 13 To get a proper crimp on the terminal, MSD recommends pre-bending the ears a little with a pair of pliers. The one on the left has been bent, and the one on the right is how it comes out of the package.13 To get a proper crimp on the terminal, MSD recommends pre-bending the ears a little wi 14 Before crimping on the end, we slipped on the shrink-sleeve logo and number. Then we slipped on the terminal and …14 Before crimping on the end, we slipped on the shrink-sleeve logo and number. Then we s 15 ...Crimped it with the crimpers. These crimpers are designed to squeeze it just enough but not so much it damages the core. These terminals are a double-crimp design, which means the core is not folded under but instead sticks straight out and gets crimped into a second set of ears. That second crimp is done with the very outer set of jaws on the crimping tool.15 ...Crimped it with the crimpers. These crimpers are designed to squeeze it just enoug 16 After both crimps are made, it’s time to slip on the boots. This is dang near impossible without a little lube, and MSD’s Spark Guard will not only provide the slipperiness, it will also prevent moisture buildup inside the boot.16 After both crimps are made, it’s time to slip on the boots. This is dang near impossib 17 Remember the two 90-degree boots we needed to install? Well, here we are getting those on. You can also get a better look at the double crimp on the terminal in this shot.17 Remember the two 90-degree boots we needed to install? Well, here we are getting those 18 After all the terminals were in place, we slipped the shrink sleeve up in place and hit it with a heat gun. This will seal up the work and also give us a few more cool points.18 After all the terminals were in place, we slipped the shrink sleeve up in place and hi SOURCES MSD Ignition (Autotronic Controls) 1490 Henry Brennan Drive El Paso TX 79936 915-857-5200 www.msdignition.com By Calin Head Enjoyed this Post? 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