Second Gen Camaro Gauge Cluster - Cluster Candy

Second Gen Camaro Gauge Cluster Installation

Here is the American Autowire #500624 harness that goes to the back of the Auto Meter gauges. This will tie all of the gauge wiring into just a few easy to connect points.

Here is the American Autowire #500624 harness that goes to the back of the Auto Meter gaug

Most stock dashboards in older cars leave some instrumentation to be desired. Granted, there are exceptions out there, but even then, some of the older optional gauge packages consisted of a dash or "knee-knocker" tach, and what good are dummy lights if they don't work?

You don't have to cut up your stock dash to have peace of mind. Covan's Classic Automotive Specialties has teamed up with American Autowire and Auto Meter to bring you an updated direct replacement gauge panel with gauges and wiring, which are easily installed at home. Covan's Classics offers the panels in many different finishes, like brushed aluminum and carbon fiber, as well as multiple Auto Meter gauge packages to create a plethora of choices for most Chevy musclecars.

In this story, we have a '71 Camaro getting the carbon fiber panel and matching gauges. I will walk you through most of the wiring from the gauges to the inside of the firewall. Wiring is not my forte, which may be the case for many of you out there. For those who share my pain, American Autowire has done an excellent job of making the wiring job as much of a "bolt-in" as possible.

You will need basic wiring tools, the directions, and a phone if you need to call for tech support, like I did. This car doesn't have a motor or tranny yet, so we will follow up with the gauge sending unit hookup later. What might be tricky is the lack of room around the stock headlight switch, so plan accordingly; you may have to loosen it up to get the panel in there with the wiring hooked up. The #CA11808 harness has provisions for all the other stock parts that this harness replaces-like the cigarette lighter and heater controls.

In summary, this may take a few hours, and for the electrically challenged, like myself, you'll want to set aside a Saturday or a couple of nights. Not to worry because all of this is shipped to you in a very easy-to-use package. Read on and stay tuned.

This is the second part of the new retrofit American Autowire harness #CA11808; this will allow the harness from the gauge cluster to plug right into the otherwise stock-appearing harness.
This is the second part of the new retrofit American Autowire harness #CA11808; this will
Picking up the job from here in this '71 Camaro where the dash was mocked up, I just took out the four screws that held the new Covan's Classic Carbon Fiber six-gauge panel in place and removed it from the dash. For the stock gauge panel you will need to unhook all the wiring that goes to the printed circuit and undo the speedo cable.
Picking up the job from here in this '71 Camaro where the dash was mocked up, I just took
Here we are behind the firewall just above the gas pedal and you find this bulkhead that is easily removed by loosening the center-mounting bolt and by unplugging the bulkhead. Pull out all the wiring that is associated with this part of the stock harness.
Here we are behind the firewall just above the gas pedal and you find this bulkhead that i

On the workbench we can start assembling everything for the gauge wiring. On the left is how the Auto Meter gauges are shipped, in the dash harness bag you will find these like right-angle connectors that need to be installed on the back of the gauges so the connectors on the harness will plug right into them. Of the small gauges, only the voltmeter gets two of these connectors, the rest get three.
On the workbench we can start assembling everything for the gauge wiring. On the left is h
Once you get that taken care of, install the lights for the gauges. Connect the black ground wire to the center post and on the other side of the white power wire is a connector that plugs right into the new harness.
Once you get that taken care of, install the lights for the gauges. Connect the black grou
Lucky for me the kind people at American Autowire label all the wires for their kits.

For the new speedo and tach, all that's necessary is to secure them into the panel and these connectors just plug right into the back of each one. On the left is the tach with the six-wire connector and the speedo on the right gets the 8-wire connector. These also have built-in lights, so I didn't use two of the ones supplied.
For the new speedo and tach, all that's necessary is to secure them into the panel and the
These wires are for the turn signal and high beam indicator lights, as well as their needed grounds. The owner of the car wasn't sure where in the dash he wanted to mount these, so I capped them with butt connectors and held off for now. But on the other side are LEDs, which just push and lock into place once you drill the holes in the gauge panel.
These wires are for the turn signal and high beam indicator lights, as well as their neede
Makin' it all possible. These two connectors make the dash installation basically plug 'n' play where you would normally need to cut and splice all the wires from the printed circuit and more.
Makin' it all possible. These two connectors make the dash installation basically plug 'n'

From the #11808 harness to the #500624 gauge harness, this may give you a better picture of what's going on. On the left is the new bulkhead and the coil of wires on the right is for the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) that will replace the mechanical speedo cable. You can also see the big round connector with the black and orange wires that goes to a cigarette lighter.
From the #11808 harness to the #500624 gauge harness, this may give you a better picture o
This is looking at the back of the stock headlight switch, which is pretty tight with the gauge panel installed, so you might try to plan your attack on the bench. For good measure, I used a little Dielectric grease on the old switch terminals.
This is looking at the back of the stock headlight switch, which is pretty tight with the
You may want to tidy up any cluttered wires before installing everything by using small zip ties. I also recommend investing $10-$15 in a set of "flush cut" pliers that do just that for plastic ties like this, and they won't leave sharp edges, which can be painful.
You may want to tidy up any cluttered wires before installing everything by using small zi

Feed the bulkhead on the #11808 harnesses down through the right side of the dash to where it needs to be and reconnect it.There is a yellow wire coming from the #500624 harness that needs to be grounded somewhere behind the dash, you need to do that now unless you have another place picked out.
Feed the bulkhead on the #11808 harnesses down through the right side of the dash to where
Also on the #500624 harness is the wiring for the E-brake indicator light. It is this connector with the pink and tan wires. Run this back and down on the left side of the dash.
Also on the #500624 harness is the wiring for the E-brake indicator light. It is this conn
Remove the old wire from the back of the E-brake assembly and connect the tan wire there and run the pink wire to the ignition power.
Remove the old wire from the back of the E-brake assembly and connect the tan wire there a

After taking my time sifting everything into place as it went in, here it is back in place.
After taking my time sifting everything into place as it went in, here it is back in place