For the new speedo and tach, all that's necessary is to secure them into the panel and these connectors just plug right into the back of each one. On the left is the tach with the six-wire connector and the speedo on the right gets the 8-wire connector. These also have built-in lights, so I didn't use two of the ones supplied.For the new speedo and tach, all that's necessary is to secure them into the panel and the These wires are for the turn signal and high beam indicator lights, as well as their needed grounds. The owner of the car wasn't sure where in the dash he wanted to mount these, so I capped them with butt connectors and held off for now. But on the other side are LEDs, which just push and lock into place once you drill the holes in the gauge panel.These wires are for the turn signal and high beam indicator lights, as well as their neede Makin' it all possible. These two connectors make the dash installation basically plug 'n' play where you would normally need to cut and splice all the wires from the printed circuit and more.Makin' it all possible. These two connectors make the dash installation basically plug 'n' From the #11808 harness to the #500624 gauge harness, this may give you a better picture of what's going on. On the left is the new bulkhead and the coil of wires on the right is for the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) that will replace the mechanical speedo cable. You can also see the big round connector with the black and orange wires that goes to a cigarette lighter.From the #11808 harness to the #500624 gauge harness, this may give you a better picture o This is looking at the back of the stock headlight switch, which is pretty tight with the gauge panel installed, so you might try to plan your attack on the bench. For good measure, I used a little Dielectric grease on the old switch terminals.This is looking at the back of the stock headlight switch, which is pretty tight with the You may want to tidy up any cluttered wires before installing everything by using small zip ties. I also recommend investing $10-$15 in a set of "flush cut" pliers that do just that for plastic ties like this, and they won't leave sharp edges, which can be painful.You may want to tidy up any cluttered wires before installing everything by using small zi Feed the bulkhead on the #11808 harnesses down through the right side of the dash to where it needs to be and reconnect it.There is a yellow wire coming from the #500624 harness that needs to be grounded somewhere behind the dash, you need to do that now unless you have another place picked out.Feed the bulkhead on the #11808 harnesses down through the right side of the dash to where Also on the #500624 harness is the wiring for the E-brake indicator light. It is this connector with the pink and tan wires. Run this back and down on the left side of the dash.Also on the #500624 harness is the wiring for the E-brake indicator light. It is this conn Remove the old wire from the back of the E-brake assembly and connect the tan wire there and run the pink wire to the ignition power.Remove the old wire from the back of the E-brake assembly and connect the tan wire there a After taking my time sifting everything into place as it went in, here it is back in place.After taking my time sifting everything into place as it went in, here it is back in place SOURCES Covan's Classic Automotive Specialties 6020 Parkway North Dr., Bldg. A Suite 300/400, Dept. SC Cumming GA 30040 « | 1 | 2 | View Full Article By Grant Peterson Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!
