In the May issue, we showed you how to add the convenience of power windows and door locks to your Tri-Five by installing this kit by Electric Life. We left off after completing the front windows and locks. This month, we show you how to convert the rear windows to power operation. CLICK HERE FOR PART ONE OF THE STORY With the front doors finished, it was time to move to the quarter windows. After removing the back seat arm rests, the first step was removing the window crank handle. Then the door panel is removed by unscrewing the sill plate on top of the panel. Two screws and out it comes.With the front doors finished, it was time to move to the quarter windows. After removing Next, unscrew the access plate to remove the regulator. Before removing the old regulator, first roll the quarter window up all the way. The window has to be in the up position to remove the old regulator and install the electric unit.Next, unscrew the access plate to remove the regulator. Before removing the old regulator, Remove the four screws that hold the regulator in place, then unhook the regulator arm from the channel guide on the window assembly.Remove the four screws that hold the regulator in place, then unhook the regulator arm fro With that done, the old regulator will come right out with a little twisting. The new Electric Life unit installs in reverse order from the removal process. Before bolting it in place, hook the arm of the electric regulator into the channel guide on the quarter window.With that done, the old regulator will come right out with a little twisting. The new Elec With the regulator hooked to the window, bolt it in place using only the two bottom mounting holes for the old manual regulator.With the regulator hooked to the window, bolt it in place using only the two bottom mounti Route the wiring for the electric regulator through this hole in the bulkhead. We wrapped a little electrical tape around the wires so they wouldn't be cut by the sharp edge of the bulkhead.Route the wiring for the electric regulator through this hole in the bulkhead. We wrapped From there it's just a simple matter of hooking the wires from the regulator into the switch. The control wiring to the switch comes from the front of the car. You'll see in a later photo how to route the wiring so no one sees it. The new switch mounts in the factory cover panel, all you have to do is trim the factory window crank hole with a razor blade.From there it's just a simple matter of hooking the wires from the regulator into the swit With the switch in place, we removed the rocker panel cover and pulled the carpet back so we could run the wires through the factory wiring channel in the body. This way it was stored with all the other wiring going to the back, and was hidden from view.With the switch in place, we removed the rocker panel cover and pulled the carpet back so Here you can see where the Painless Wiring harness is already routed through the factory channel. We laid the wiring for the window right next to it, reinstalled the cover plate, then the carpet and the rocker plate. After that, we just had to connect the wiring from the rear unit into the main bundle of wires coming from the driver's door that connects all four windows together.Here you can see where the Painless Wiring harness is already routed through the factory c 1 | 2 | » | View Full Article By Patrick Hill Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!
