Installing Power Windows And Keyless Entry - Roll 'EM Up & Lock 'EM Down!

Once the regulator is in place, secure it using the four nuts you removed from the regulator before inserting it in the door. Then secure the short slide to the door at the back. In total, you'll have six places where the regulator is mounted to the door, four up front, and two at the back.

Using a car battery and the wires coming out of the door from the regulator, raise the window up all the way. With the glass all the way up, tighten the two mounting screws holding the window to the track.

Still on the driver's side, we went ahead and started mounting the power door lock actuator. Here you can see how the simple bracket (included with the kit) holds the actuator in the door. From this photo you can see the general distance you want the actuator mounted from the lock assembly above. Go ahead and attach the vertical bracket to the keyless actuator.

This small bracket secures the actuator rod to the door lock mechanicals. Go ahead and back out the Allen screw on the bracket.

With the actuator in the door, insert actuator rod into the bracket on the factory lock mechanism.

Now slip it onto the factory lock mechanism, making sure to keep the Allen screw facing out so you can tighten it later.

While holding everything in place, use a Sharpie to mark on the door where to drill bolt holes for the bracket that holds the actuator.

Here you can see Mark Houlahan (editor of one of our sister magazines) adjusting the position of the actuator. Once the position is set, it's very important to make sure the actuator is synched with the lock mechanism. Just like with the windows to check operation, use a couple of wires and a car battery to check the motion and operation of the lock actuator. If the locks work in reverse, all you have to do is reverse the red and the blue wires and the actuator will work normally. With our '57, the actuator was bumping against the door panel and causing the locks to trigger when the door was closed. The solution was just bending the bracket so it pushed the actuator away from the door panel. Just a simple bend using a vise was all it took.

After modifying the bracket, we still had a little trouble with the actuator hitting the inside of the door. We used some pieces of an old seat cover that were lying around the shop and wrapped them around the actuators on both sides to add some extra insulation. Once we did that, we could slam the doors as hard as possible and they never self-activated.