Power window conversions have been popular upgrades for a while now, and the aftermarket offers quite a few variations on the theme. Here we're going to take look at one such offering, one that presents a cool twist on the standard conversion-one-piece side windows. Specialty Power Windows has recently added a one-piece power window conversion kit for the ever-popular Tri-Five Chevy, which allows you to add the ease of power operation, and to delete those noisy old wing windows at the same time.
Recently, we had the opportunity to witness a SPW installation of a four-place (front and rear) kit into a '55 two-door post. The installation is a pretty involved process-not really too difficult, but there is a lot to it. Due to space limitations, we'll show only the highlights. There's no better way to get the scoop on an install of any kind than to watch one performed by an expert. We lucked out, as Mike Cox of the Glass House in San Dimas, California, volunteered to show us how it's done. Follow along, because what we're able to show you here may come in handy when you do it yourself.
 Specialty includes all the...  Specialty includes all the hard parts you'll need for the conversion (other than the actual replacement glass and pile-lined run channels), regulator assemblies, lower front run channel, wiring, and switches. Plus full installation instructions and wiring diagrams. It's an involved and somewhat time-consuming affair, but not one that's beyond the scope of a moderately seasoned do-it-yourselfer. |  To start, remove the hardware,...  To start, remove the hardware, door panels, and upper run channels (and quarter trim panels, etc. in the case of a four-place conversion). The front wing window assemblies should be removed at this time, as well. |  After removing the front door...  After removing the front door run channels, be sure to retain the lower rigid channels at the back of the doors-these channels must be reused. |
 For four-place conversions...  For four-place conversions the rear quarter area is stripped, too. There is a small curved piece of rigid channel at the lower rear portion of the window openings that must be removed and reinstalled as part of the process, as well. |  Once the doors are stripped...  Once the doors are stripped there is a support web at the front upper portion of each door that must be trimmed in order to facilitate the installation of the one-piece glass. |  |
 Once the web is trimmed, the...  Once the web is trimmed, the front lower channels can be installed. In this particular situation the channels needed to be modified a bit. Mike made a mounting tab for the channels that attached and centered the channels in the door body so that it was a straight shot up and down, and there'd be no bind in window movement. |  The next step was to locate...  The next step was to locate and drill the regulator mounting holes. Specialty's instruction sheet supplies the dimensions. |  In this particular case Mike...  In this particular case Mike ran into a bit of a snag. These doors contained a support of some kind that was spot-welded to the door. |
 The spot-welds had to be drilled...  The spot-welds had to be drilled and the support removed before he could proceed with the regulator installation. |  With the mounting holes located...  With the mounting holes located and drilled, the harness can be plugged into the motor and the regulators bolted into place. |  At this point, Mike shaped...  At this point, Mike shaped and installed the replacement upper run channels. |
 The channels run from inside...  The channels run from inside the lower front and rear rigid channels all the way up and around the window openings, and can be held in place with silicone or urethane. |  While the run channel adhesive...  While the run channel adhesive was drying, it was time to cut the door glass. Mike laid a piece of glass on the template supplied with the Specialty kit and proceeded to cut the glass. This is one step that is surely best left to a professional. |  |