Monster Transmission 700 R4 Upgrade - Monster Upgrade

Sucp 1202 02 Monster Transmission 700R4 Upgrade

Exit 98's new 700-R4 case sits in the foreground awaiting its internals spread across an assembly table at Monster Transmission & Performance in Brooksville, Florida. Check out the sidebar for more on what makes this SS Mega Monster Trans so special.

Exit 98's new 700-R4 case sits in the foreground awaiting its internals spread across an a

When we dropped our fire-breathing 400-cube SBC into good ol' Project Exit 98 (which you can read about in the September 2011 issue or at www.superchevy.com), we felt going into the deal that the stock TH200-4R was not the best choice to handle the 480 lb-ft of torque our shiny new Dart motor produced. A quick call to the folks at Monster Transmission and Performance in Brooksville, Florida, confirmed this suspicion.

"GM never designed the 200-4R to go into anything with more than 300 or so horsepower," says Achilles Thomas, president of Monster. "That's why you don't see them in trucks; they can't handle the associated torque."

Our solution was to swap in a TH700-R4. Both the 200 and 700 were early '80s overdrive incarnations of General Motors Turbo-Hydramatic automatic transmissions that first appeared in 1964 model year Cadillacs. While there are a significant number of similarities between the two, the 700-R4 is a stronger transmission, featuring a 30-spline input shaft as opposed to the 27-spline one found in the 200. The lock-up circuits in a 700 are different as well. Most importantly, the planetary in the 700 is much stronger than the one found in the 200, making it a popular choice for muscle car restorations like lil' ol' 98 here.

Of course, here at Super Chevy we're not just going to drop in any old junkyard 700-R4. Quite the contrary. Since we're already pushing close to 500 lb-ft on this motor, we opted for Monster's SS Mega Monster 700-R4. Designed for vehicles powered by engines producing up to 650 horsepower (600 torque), the Mega Monster is perfect for our application, and with a price tag of $1,695.95 it's also a great deal. For the lowdown on what makes this trans so well suited to our combo, check out the sidebar at the end of the story. Now, on to the install. j

1 When you buy the SS Mega Monster 700-R4, you get a new trans cooler, TV cable, dust cover, torque converter matched to your trans and application, all the mounting hardware, and the trans itself.
1 When you buy the SS Mega Monster 700-R4, you get a new trans cooler, TV cable, dust cov
2 Here's a new Mega Monster sitting next to the Monte's old 200-4R. As you can see, the 700 is a much longer trans. It also features a 30-spline input shaft as opposed to the 27-spline one found in the 200. The lock-up circuits in a 700 are different as well, but most importantly the 700's planetary is much stronger.
2 Here's a new Mega Monster sitting next to the Monte's old 200-4R. As you can see, the 7
3 With the longer trans case, you need a shorter driveshaft. Here you can see the rusty original shaft alongside the new one that will go into the Monte.
3 With the longer trans case, you need a shorter driveshaft. Here you can see the rusty o

4 First things first. When installing a transmission--particularly one where you're performing a swap--you always mock up fitment on everything before you begin bolting stuff up. Here, P.J. Higginbotham (on the right) and Mark Knapp from Monster raise the new 700-R4 into its future home. From here they'll ensure that the trans fluid lines, TV cable, shifter linkage, and speedo cable all fit correctly. In addition, they'll measure the length for the new driveshaft that is needed.
4 First things first. When installing a transmission--particularly one where you're perfo
5 With the test fit complete and everything measured out correctly, we bring the trans back down for the torque converter installation. We're using a 2,000-stall, lock-up converter that Monster recommended for our near 500hp street/strip application. Typically, you fill the converter with transmission fluid prior to installing it, but we decided to dump the nice red lube onto the bright green converter to get into the Christmas spirit early.
5 With the test fit complete and everything measured out correctly, we bring the trans ba
6 This is very important when installing a torque converter. And in fact, Curt Thomas from Monster tells us that this is where most gearheads screw up a backyard trans install. As you can see, there are two sets of splines on the input shaft, along with a green O-ring. There are a couple of ways you can cause yourself issues. First, if you're not careful and you don't grease that seal you can knock it off, causing a nice little leak once everything is bolted up. Second, the pump stator (which Curt is pointing to) centers the converter so that it spins true.
6 This is very important when installing a torque converter. And in fact, Curt Thomas fro

7 ...When installing the converter, you will hear a reasonably loud clunk when the converter meets the stator. At this point, most shade trees assume that the converter is in place, but it's not. You have to keep pushing the converter forward (wiggling it as you go) onto the input shaft (the smaller set of splines in the picture). Don't worry, you won't break the pump gear. When you get the converter properly seated onto the input shaft, you'll hear a second clunk. So there you have it: two clunks and you are good to go. One final easyy check to perfor is to try to slide your finger behind the converter. You should not be able to do it. Here, P.J. slides the converter onto the input shaft, carefully listening for those two clunks.
7 ...When installing the converter, you will hear a reasonably loud clunk when the conver
8 When you order a trans from Monster, it comes with the plugs for the TV cable already installed on the trans case, so it is necessary to remove the plugs from the new cable if you are not reusing the one on the car. Since this is a 200 to 700 swap we're not.
8 When you order a trans from Monster, it comes with the plugs for the TV cable already i
9 With the torque converter in place, the trans is set back on the trans jack and raised into position. Note how the unit must be kept at an angle in order to fit into the tunnel properly. You can also see P.J. begin attaching the TV cable to the plug.
9 With the torque converter in place, the trans is set back on the trans jack and raised

10 It takes two hands to hook up the cable.
11 The final step is to screw the protective plastic cap down onto the case.
11 The final step is to screw the protective plastic cap down onto the case.
12 There are six bolts that hold the trans to the block. P.J. is pointing to one of the bolts in this picture. A dowel pin, which you can see directly above the tab that is above the bolt, helps guide the trans into place and lines up the six bolt holes. When maneuvering the trans into position, it is important that you slide the dowel pin through the corresponding hole on the trans.
12 There are six bolts that hold the trans to the block. P.J. is pointing to one of the b

13 Once you have the trans positioned correctly, you can tighten down the six bolts. Remember to tighten in a cross-over pattern, lower left, then upper right, then upper left and lower right. This will pull the trans straight onto the block.
13 Once you have the trans positioned correctly, you can tighten down the six bolts. Reme
14 With the trans bolted tight, you can see how the dowel pin protrudes beyond the mounting flange.
14 With the trans bolted tight, you can see how the dowel pin protrudes beyond the mounti
15 In addition to the six block bolts, there are three bolts that hold the torque converter to the flywheel.
15 In addition to the six block bolts, there are three bolts that hold the torque convert

16 Like the TV cable, the dipstick plug must be removed as well.
17 Make sure you install the dipstick once the trans is bolted up tight. That way you can get proper placement in the engine bay.
17 Make sure you install the dipstick once the trans is bolted up tight. That way you can
18 With just about everything hooked up, the transmission crossmember is put in place. As you can see, we had to modify the stock crossmember to accommodate Exit 98's true dual exhaust. Not the best approach, but one that works for the time being.
18 With just about everything hooked up, the transmission crossmember is put in place. As

19 The bracket for the shifter cable is hooked up to the transmission pan.
19 The bracket for the shifter cable is hooked up to the transmission pan.
20 With the bracket in place, the shifter linkage is attached. This is one of the final steps, but during the mock-up phase P.J. and Mark took their time ensuring that the cable was the right length and attached correctly to the shifter inside the car.
20 With the bracket in place, the shifter linkage is attached. This is one of the final s
21 On the topside, the shifter cable is hooked up to the shifter. P.J. and Mark will check all the shift points multiple times and adjust the tension on the cable to make sure the transmission is shifting correctly.
21 On the topside, the shifter cable is hooked up to the shifter. P.J. and Mark will chec

22 The stock speedo cable screws right into the trans. Monster will deliver your trans with the correct gearing for the speedometer, if you tell them all the relevant information, including tire size, rearend gear, etc.
22 The stock speedo cable screws right into the trans. Monster will deliver your trans wi
23 P.J. strips the wire for the lock-up converter, slips a connector on, and plugs it in. To do this yourself, all you need is a 12-volt power source (run from the fuse box with a fusable link) and ground source, which we ran to the chassis.
23 P.J. strips the wire for the lock-up converter, slips a connector on, and plugs it in.
24 With all of the undercar work done, we lower Exit 98 to the ground to install the transmission cooler.
24 With all of the undercar work done, we lower Exit 98 to the ground to install the tran

25 The kit includes everything you need, including these nifty padded tie-wraps. We reused the Monte's existing transmission lines by flaring the ends and attaching a short length of rubber hose with band clamps to the cooler.
25 The kit includes everything you need, including these nifty padded tie-wraps. We reuse
26 The next step is hooking up the TV cable to our carb. Holley makes a transmission cable bracket (PN 20-113) and kick-down throttle bracket (PN 20-121) specifically for 700-R4 swaps. The bracket gives the carb the proper geometry, or pull, on the TV cable so trans fluid pressure will match the throttle input and prevent the trans from prematurely burning up due to low fluid pressure.
26 The next step is hooking up the TV cable to our carb. Holley makes a transmission cabl
27 Our new driveshaft slides right into place. As mentioned, the longer 700-R4 requires a shorter driveshaft.
27 Our new driveshaft slides right into place. As mentioned, the longer 700-R4 requires a

28 Here, we're bolting up the new shaft to the old stock rearend. Do you think the rear will be able to handle 480 lb-ft of torque?
28 Here, we're bolting up the new shaft to the old stock rearend. Do you think the rear w
29 The final step is to fill the trans with 12 quarts of transmission fluid.
29 The final step is to fill the trans with 12 quarts of transmission fluid.
30 With the trans comfortably in the Monte, our next step is to install a true dual exhaust system, which we will cover in a subsequent article. Here, you can see that we notched the stock cross- member to ac- commodate the new Pypes sys- tem we sourced from our pals at Summit Racing. Once the exhaust is complete, we'll flog ol' Exit 98 on the dyno. Stay tuned!
30 With the trans comfortably in the Monte, our next step is to install a true dual exhau

Building a Monster
Before our 700-R4 SS Mega Monster transmission ever got anywhere near Exit 98, it first had to be completely rebuilt. But the guys at Monster Transmission do way more than just rebuild the trans. Actually, "rebuild" is somewhat of a misnomer for what they do. Complete upgrade would be a better description. The 700-R4 that's in our Monte is ideal for vehicles powered by engines producing up to 650 hp and 600 lb-ft of torque (without nitrous), using pump gasoline. The 700-R4 has a 3.06 ratio in First gear, which is 20-percent lower than most automatic transmissions. The 30-percent overdrive will give a 30- to 40-percent increase in gas mileage on the road when compared to a three-speed transmission. Equipped with a Manual/Automatic valve body, most units allow you to manually shift the vehicle into each gear change or, by placing it in the Drive position, remain fully automatic. Of course, in order to have complete control of the rpm shift timing, you must upgrade to a full manual valvebody. When you select the normal Drive position, the transmission retains its firm, automatic shifts for the ease of driving you look for in an automatic transmission.

Monster's Nate Fuller is a tranny rebuild specialist. Here he is installing the forward planetary drum into the transmission case.
Monster's Nate Fuller is a tranny rebuild specialist. Here he is installing the forward pl
Monster junks the stock four-pinion planetaries in favor of the beefier five-pinion units you can see here in the foreground.
Monster junks the stock four-pinion planetaries in favor of the beefier five-pinion units

There are almost too many upgrades to list in one sidebar, but some of the more major ones include the swapping in of stronger five-pinion front and rear planetary gearsets, an updated accumulator, a new high-flow filter, new 29-element, heavy-duty forward input sprag, and a new high-performance aluminum servo. Monster also modifies the sunshell drive gear to increase rear planetary lubrication and the input sun gear to increase forward planetary lubrication. In fact, the guys at Monster focus a lot of attention on lubrication during their rebuilds. Better lubrication equals lower operating temperatures and better overall performance.

Finally, they perform dozens of system checks throughout the build, not just when the trans is completed. Before any trans goes out the door of Monster's shops, it gets dyno'd and road-tested, a hallmark to their dedication to quality control. We're looking forward to beating the snot out of Exit 98 when we get to the track.

SOURCES
Monster Transmission 19370 Oliver St. Brooksville FL 34601 800-708-0087 www.monstertrans.com	G Force Crossmembers 330-753-5300 www.Crossmembers.com