Here, the shift fork assembly was trial fit. As you can see, the factory 1-2 fork is reused in all of its aluminum glory because failure is very rare here. But on the 3-4 shift fork, an upgrade to a steel unit is always necessary in a performance application.Here, the shift fork assembly was trial fit. As you can see, the factory 1-2 fork is reuse Ah, the home stretch. With all the subassemblies put together, it was now time to put the entire box together. Starting with the front plate, Kreppein lined up the shift fork assembly with the mainshaft and all the speedgears. The countershaft was also laid into place and everything checked for free movement.Ah, the home stretch. With all the subassemblies put together, it was now time to put the Next up, a thin bead of silicone was placed on the front face of the center housing, then placed over the front cover. As Kreppein said, this process separates the men from the boys as he placed the shift rail's detent block onto the shifter shaft while lowering the housing. It's difficult for the untrained technician, but he did it with no fanfare and just kept going about his business. Sheesh, what a show-off.Next up, a thin bead of silicone was placed on the front face of the center housing, then A roll pin was gently tapped into place to lock the shift rail's detent block into place. This finished up the center housing assembly as we moved to the rear section where Fifth, Sixth, and Reverse reside.A roll pin was gently tapped into place to lock the shift rail's detent block into place. The fifth and sixth speedgears were assembled together separately. A dedicated slider was used here with synchros and roller bearings on each gear.The fifth and sixth speedgears were assembled together separately. A dedicated slider was The 5-6 gear assembly was slid into the rear of the center housing with the shift fork. This proved to be a bit more difficult as the fork shaft wasn't agreeing with our every move. In addition, the assembly was splined to the backside of the lower countershaft so it was a balancing act of sorts.The 5-6 gear assembly was slid into the rear of the center housing with the shift fork. Th With the case set upright, it was much easier to get everything into place. Here, Reverse gear was locked in.With the case set upright, it was much easier to get everything into place. Here, Reverse Reverse's speed gear was then placed onto the output shaft and the remaining bearings were slid into place. Here, the VSS reluctor wheel is being secured with its C-clip. Note that on a T56, Reverse is synchronized, which is why there is no nasty crunch when you jamb that handle into "R."Reverse's speed gear was then placed onto the output shaft and the remaining bearings were Well, here it is in its race-ready glory. Note that the forward solenoid with the white connector is for the infamous Skip Shift feature and the solenoid (not shown) that occupies the hole in the shifter housing is for reverse lockout. Many people confuse the two and inadvertently remove the reverse lockout solenoid, thinking they have removed the Skip Shift solenoid. This is bad, as it will allow you to go into Reverse at speed.Well, here it is in its race-ready glory. Note that the forward solenoid with the white co For our flywheel, we dumped the stock iron unit and installed one of Zoom's new billet steel units. It bolts directly into place and allows an owner to use up to a massive 12-inch clutch, should he or she desire. Overall diameter and tooth count is the same, just in case you were wondering.For our flywheel, we dumped the stock iron unit and installed one of Zoom's new billet ste The rear tailhousing got a thin bead of silicone sealant and was lowered into place. Because Reverse's idler gear is in here, it may require a quick wiggle to get the cover fully seated.The rear tailhousing got a thin bead of silicone sealant and was lowered into place. Becau At this point, it's real smart to replace the rear main seal and pilot bearing. Not easy to get to, these could cause major headaches later on, so put fresh ones in. We ran out of money so we re-used our low-mileage pieces, much to our chagrin. Do as we say, not as we do.At this point, it's real smart to replace the rear main seal and pilot bearing. Not easy t The Zoom flywheel allows you to use stock flywheel bolts or any aftermarket ones that are similar in head size. Since LS1 flywheels are zero balance, you could theoretically bolt it in at any of the six positions, but we lined up the large alignment hole with where the stock one was by lining up the dirt and dust.The Zoom flywheel allows you to use stock flywheel bolts or any aftermarket ones that are The Zoom pressure plate and Kevlar clutch were then bolted up, using the stock pressure plate bolts. The alignment tool then came out and we were ready to move on.The Zoom pressure plate and Kevlar clutch were then bolted up, using the stock pressure pl T56s use a separate bellhousing to ease serviceability. Here, we bolted it onto the engine, reusing all of the factory fasteners. Our car is running well into the 10s, so an SFI-approved bellhousing is on our shopping list. The tranny goes in next and with a 15mm socket and some swivel extensions, we had a complete streetable and track-ready drivetrain upgrade that was ready to go.T56s use a separate bellhousing to ease serviceability. Here, we bolted it onto the engine SOURCES Rockland Standard Gear Zoom Performance Products 134 Talbert Pointe Dr. Mooresville NC 28117 « | 1 | 2 | 3 | View Full Article By Vinnie The Hitman Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!