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Double The Gears

Installing The Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive In A Tri-Five
June, 2009
By Grant Peterson
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The mechanical parts from... 
   
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The mechanical parts from Gear Vendors look pretty simple, but don't let that fool you. There has been some serious R&D that has gone into their revolutionary product. We have the over/underdrive unit, trans to Gear Vendors adapter, yoke, speedo cable adapter and extension, output shaft coupler, floor mount switch, and miscellaneous parts.
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This shows the electrical... 
   
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This shows the electrical side of things with the AutoShift Sequencer box and all the needed wiring that is labeled extremely well and comes with all the correct connectors crimped on already.
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First remove the driveshaft,... 
   
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First remove the driveshaft, place a bucket underneath to catch any leaks. Remove the two bolts that go through the crossmember and in to the tranny mount. Jack up the transmission to take the weight off the tranny mount and remove the tailshaft housing from the tranny.
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Clean the mating surface on... 
   
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Clean the mating surface on the stock trans where the tailshaft housing was removed. Lube the bushing and seal in the Gear Vendors adapter with white lithium grease. Place either the O-ring or paper gasket (depending on your tranny) on the adapter dry, no silicone, and bolt it up to the tranny. Make sure to torque the bolts to 40-45 lb-ft. You can also bolt the rubber trans mount onto the adapter and lower the tranny back onto the crossmember.
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Next, Brett taps on the output... 
   
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Next, Brett taps on the output shaft with a soft face hammer to make sure it is seated in the tranny properly.
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Put a light coat of white... 
   
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Put a light coat of white grease on the splines of the coupler and slide it onto the output shaft. Put a straightedge across the face of the adapter and using the supplied round metal shims, stack them up under the straightedge until they fill the gap between the coupler and the straightedge. Remove the coupler and put that stack of shims inside the coupler perpendicular to the splines and put the coupler back on the output shaft making sure the shims didn't fall over in the process.
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Now you should be able to... 
   
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Now you should be able to put the straightedge across the face of the adapter again and using a feeler gauge, measure a gap from 0.00-0.015 inches. If you need to remove or add more shims to get the right gap, do it now.
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With the printed side of the... 
   
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With the printed side of the gasket facing the Gear Vendors Overdrive, slide it in the studs dry, without using silicone again and bolt the unit to the adapter. Tighten the eight nuts in a criss-cross pattern to 6-9 lb-ft...
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...Take your time; they are... 
   
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...Take your time; they are kinda tough to get to. You can also install the yoke at this point. Make sure and get a bottle of GM#12346190 synthetic gear oil from either a dealer or good parts house, lube the splines and the seal and insert the yoke.
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Cap the old speedo inlet with... 
   
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Cap the old speedo inlet with the supplied parts.
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Lube with white grease and... 
   
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Lube with white grease and install the speedo gear into the new housing and place the new O-ring in the groove on the housing. Lube the whole assembly and slide it into the overdrive unit making sure it is seated properly and tighten the retainer fork down over it, taking care to line up the slots with the fork.
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Since we have now lengthened... 
   
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Since we have now lengthened the trans and pushed the speedo gear farther back, we need to lengthen the speedo cable. The speedo adapter is also a signal generator for using electronic speedos. This car still has a mechanical speedo, so the wires won't be used, but we still need it to attach the extra length of speedo cable to. Brett used an Adel clamp mounted to the floor to secure the speedo adapter and cable.
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You can see in this picture... 
   
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You can see in this picture that this emergency brake bracket is very close to the yoke, so Brett and I figured if we put a jog in it everything would clear.
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Mark where the bend needs... 
   
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Mark where the bend needs to start and finish so it doesn't bind with anything.
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Making sure we remembered... 
   
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Making sure we remembered where each side needed to be bent, we put it in the vise and persuaded it with a big hammer. After the two bends were done, you still want each end to be parallel.
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Success!
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It's time to measure for a... 
   
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It's time to measure for a new driveshaft, or in many cases, get it shortened. An easy way to do this is to seat the yoke all the way into the tranny and measure from center to center of where the U-joint cups would be and subtract 5/8 inch. That will leave just enough travel in the driveshaft and minimal yoke sticking out of the tranny. Eliminating extra travel ensures more spline overlap and makes for more driveline stability.
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I took a trip out to Inland... 
   
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I took a trip out to Inland Empire Drivelines to get the new driveshaft made and Mario got right to work once I gave him the measurements. There are many options these days in driveshafts, but the customer opted for traditional steel.
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Mario's all smiles over this... 
   
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Mario's all smiles over this beauty! In the process he installed new Spicer U-joints. The front is a 5-799X and the rear is a 5-785X to mate up to the 12-Bolt rearend, he also made sure we had the straps for the rear, which is a 2-70-28X, but this differs with the style and year of your rearend.
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To use the AutoShift Sequencer... 
   
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To use the AutoShift Sequencer with a non-electronic transmission we need to mount a range sensor to the tranny's shift arm and have that signal sent to a control module. In order to do that, we installed Lokar's Indicator Control Module. Lokar's was chosen because it can drive a gear position display (PRND12) if needed later.
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Lokar's installation instructions... 
   
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Lokar's installation instructions are very simple and it shouldn't take long to install if followed correctly.
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We are only going to need... 
   
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We are only going to need the orange and brown wires from the Lokar harness; the others can be capped off. The two wires will go directly into the AutoShift Sequencer box, easy enough.
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The lead wires from the solenoid... 
   
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The lead wires from the solenoid are run up along with the Lokar harness.
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For the tach lead, we pull... 
   
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For the tach lead, we pull it from the tach connection on the HEI cap directly to the control box.
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After much thought we had... 
   
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After much thought we had decided to mount the AutoShift Sequencer box on the firewall due to the lack of space under the dash in this car.
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Take some time and decide... 
   
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Take some time and decide where you want to mount the overdrive indicator lights. We tried to incorporate them into the dash as much as possible. Lay them out together if you can so it's easy to see both of them at the same time. You will also be happier in the end if you take the time to measure out their placement before drilling holes in your dash.
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Mount the foot switch where... 
   
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Mount the foot switch where it is out of the way, but still easily accessible and comfortable to use.
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The wiring is very basic and... 
   
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The wiring is very basic and simple for this unit, everything is labeled well and the directions are easy to read. I would only make it more difficult if I tried to rehash them.
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You can't see it very well,... 
   
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You can't see it very well, but there is a hole drilled in the firewall with a grommet in it behind the wiring to the right of the Auto Sequencer. This was used to bring the wires from the indicator lights and the foot switch to the box. That's it, cruise like you've never cruised before!
Lokar Performance Products Gear Vendors
800/999-9555

gearvendors.com
Inland Empire Driveline Firehouse Fabrication
704 Monroe Way, Dept. CRM
Placentia
CA  92870

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