Fuel Lines - Plumbing For Show And Go

Sucp 1209 01 Fuel Line Setup Plumbing For Show And Go

Last month we wrote a story on replacing brake lines with pre-bent and flared units. While that story covered installation tips, there was no bending or flaring involved. Since we know making your own lines for brakes, fuel, or whatever else is pretty common in the Super Chevy world, we just had to do a story on it. Instead of a brake line we decided to plumb a line that is pretty visual in the engine compartment, which is the one from the mechanical pump up to the carb.

This article will cover creating a fuel line set up that will not only have all the performance parameters like a regulator and so on it will also cover the two most common options you have--hard line and flexible tube. We will be using products from Earl's and Holley to complete our lines. With the blacked-out look taking over the show scene we will be using the ANO-TUFF line of products, which are all coated in Mil Spec black hard anodizing.

Everything will be done in a -6 size, which is equivalent to 3/8 line. This should easily support this 575hp 427. We know one of the worst parts of creating hard or soft line is figuring out what you need to order, so we will give you part numbers for everything including some of the specialty tools needed.

Sucp 1209 02 Fuel Line Setup Plumbing For Show And Go

1 Here are all the components we want to plumb into our fuel system. The -6 fuel log (AT101195ERL) takes care of the carb no problem, but we also wanted a regulator to keep our fuel pressure correct and a nice Earl's 35-micron filter to keep the fuel as clean as possible before it gets into the little orifices in the carb. We got one of Holley's new billet regulators, which is a very nice piece. It has 4.5-to-9 psi range and 3/8 NPT ports and even has a 1/8 NPT port for a gauge (26-504). Initially we were going to build lines to all these things separately, but then we had a better idea.

Sucp 1209 03 Fuel Line Setup Plumbing For Show And Go

2 Why not combine them all into one assembly? That's exactly what we did. We tore apart the fuel log and reconfi gured it. Now the regulator and fi lter are incorporated and we think it looks pretty dang sweet. We used as many fi ttings as possible and only needed to make up one small section of hardline. Starting at the fuel fi lter, here is the break down of what we have: A -6 fi lter (AT230106ERL) to a -6 swivel-to-swivel (AT915112ERL), then a -6 to 3/8 NPT 90-degree (AT982266ERL) that feeds up into the bottom of the regulator (12-840). Coming out of the front port of the regulator is a -6 swivel to 3/8 male NPT straight (AT916166ERL) to a -6 to -6 90-degree adapter (AT982106ERL), and then to a -6 B-nut to 7/8-20 extension (AT915393LERL) that threads into the fuel bowl. Lastly, coming out of the back of the regulator we have a -6 to 3/8 NPT straight male (AT981666ERL) to a hardline we made with two tube nuts (AT581806ERL), two tube sleeves (AT581906ERL), and a short section of tube. The rest is the same as the front fuel bowl components. Now all we need to do is focus on running one clean line from the fuel pump to the inlet of the fi lter. Total cost of this new fuel log assembly is $294.35, but remember we have a billet regulator, liquid fi lled gauge, and AN fi lter in place, which are premium parts. Holley of ers lower cost units if your budget is less forgiving.

3a Again, this story is going to show how to do both a hard line and a flexible line. We'll start with the hard line. The parts we will need to construct our hard line are a 10-foot coil of Earl's aluminum tube (100034ERL)...
3a Again, this story is going to show how to do both a hard line and a flexible line. We'
3b...two tube nuts (AT581806ERL), and two tube sleeves (AT581906ERL). We will also need a tube cutter, lever-style tube bender, and a 37-degree flaring tool like this one from Rigid (PN 41162).
3b ...two tube nuts (AT581806ERL), and two tube sleeves (AT581906ERL). We will also need a
4 It's a good idea to use some stiff wire to make a simple pattern. The pattern will tell you about how much tubing you will need to cut off the roll. Plus, this is the stage where you can dream and try different routes. We decided to go around the valve cover and down the side of the head, staying on the outside of the top bolt hole since that is where the alternator mounts up. If we had our complete front drive accessories we would also look at routing the line behind the water pump, but as long as the bends are nice and smooth and we follow some sort of lines on the motor it's going to look good.
4 It's a good idea to use some stiff wire to make a simple pattern. The pattern will tell

5 We used the pattern to determine how much to take off the roll. The pattern also revealed we needed to come out of the fuel pump with a 90-degree bend as close to the fitting as possible. To do this we left a little bit sticking out the end of the bender, made our 90-degree bend and then slipped on the tube sleeve till it wouldn't go down any further. Then we measured the thickness of the flaring tool's flare bar and that let us know exactly where to cut the tube. Looking back we should have just bought a -6 swivel to -6 90-degree adapter (AT921106ERL) so we didn't have to do this bend.
5 We used the pattern to determine how much to take off the roll. The pattern also reveal
6 After cutting, we de-burred the end of the tube and slipped on the tube nut and tube sleeve. Then, following the instructions that came with the flaring tool we positioned the tube in the flaring bar. Not all flaring tools work the same; make sure to read the instructions at least once to determine these parameters.
6 After cutting, we de-burred the end of the tube and slipped on the tube nut and tube sl
7 It's a good idea to add a drop of motor oil to lubricate the tube before flaring. This will help the tool produce the best flare possible. We are dealing with aluminum tubing, so it cuts and flares very easily. Steel or stainless will be much more difficult to flare and sometimes the flaring tools will be different, so keep that in mind when looking to buy one.
7 It's a good idea to add a drop of motor oil to lubricate the tube before flaring. This

8 After cranking down the flaring tool, this is what we were left with, a nice and smooth 37-degree flare.
8 After cranking down the flaring tool, this is what we were left with, a nice and smooth
9 We installed our line on the fuel pump just to make sure our bend was good to go.
9 We installed our line on the fuel pump just to make sure our bend was good to go.
10 Since we had clearance, instead of trying to match our pattern off the motor we just bent it while it was on. With the tubing bender, we bent the line back towards the block and then straight up again.
10 Since we had clearance, instead of trying to match our pattern off the motor we just b

11 Now we wanted the line to run across the face of the head following where the valve cover meets the head. Following visual lines that are already on the motor will keep the hardline from sticking out like a sore thumb.
11 Now we wanted the line to run across the face of the head following where the valve co
12 Even though we could get the bender in place to make the curve that goes around the valve cover towards the fuel filter, we could not make the actual bend. The tool hit the valve cover so we just kept the tool in position while we removed the line to make the bend.
12 Even though we could get the bender in place to make the curve that goes around the va
13 Reinstalling the tube, we were rewarded with a perfect line. Not to worry if it doesn't line up exactly; the aluminum tubing is soft enough you can make adjustments by hand to get it perfect.
13 Reinstalling the tube, we were rewarded with a perfect line. Not to worry if it doesn'

14 The last thing we needed to do was trim off the end of the tube and flare it. When marking for a flare, make sure to mark at the fat end of the flare on the fitting like you see here.
14 The last thing we needed to do was trim off the end of the tube and flare it. When mar
15 There you have it, one freshly constructed hard line that was $19.89 minus the tools, and $197.00 including the tools. Just like the fuel log, the tools we used are premium pieces, but there are flaring tools available for less than our $115.62 unit. We like the look of well-bent hard line and it will last for a very long time. Pros: good looks, very durable, low-cost parts. Cons: expensive tool costs, harder to create, less forgiving.
15 There you have it, one freshly constructed hard line that was $19.89 minus the tools,
16a To make the flexible line we picked up: a 10-foot section of Earl's Pro-Lite 350, braided nylon, hose (351006ERL), a straight swivel seal (AT800106ERL) at the filter and a 90-degree low profile swivel seal (AT809006ERL) at the fuel pump.
16a To make the flexible line we picked up: a 10-foot section of Earl's Pro-Lite 350, bra

16b The tools needed to construct this line are a bit more common with just a hacksaw with a 32-teeth per inch blade and some masking tape.
16b The tools needed to construct this line are a bit more common with just a hacksaw wit
17 Since the Pro-Lite hose is flexible, routing is pretty much a no brainer, so we installed the straight fitting on the hose and then threaded it on the filter so we could determine where to cut into the hose.
17 Since the Pro-Lite hose is flexible, routing is pretty much a no brainer, so we instal
18 The masking tape serves a few purposes, but here it allows us to make a mark on our hose that we can see.
18 The masking tape serves a few purposes, but here it allows us to make a mark on our ho

19 The tape is also used to keep the nylon covering intact as you make your cut. Try and cut the end of the hose as close to 90 degrees as possible.
19 The tape is also used to keep the nylon covering intact as you make your cut. Try and
20 We removed the socket from the swivel seal and slipped it over the end of the hose until the end of the hose was lined up with the end of the threads inside the socket. Then we put a small piece of tape around the hose at the back of the socket. This will let us quickly see if the hose pushes out in the following steps.
20 We removed the socket from the swivel seal and slipped it over the end of the hose unt
21 We placed the hose and socket into the vise and gently held it in place. The other part of the swivel seal has a nipple that pushes into the end of the hose and has threads that engage into the socket. To make this easier place a little engine oil on the inside of the tube and on the nipple.
21 We placed the hose and socket into the vise and gently held it in place. The other par

22 We pushed the nipple into the hose until the threads touch, then slowly threaded the nipple into the socket making sure the hose doesn't push out the back of the socket. The tape will show that instantly.
22 We pushed the nipple into the hose until the threads touch, then slowly threaded the n
23 Once we couldn't thread it in by hand anymore, we grabbed a wrench and tightened till the assembly looks like this.
23 Once we couldn't thread it in by hand anymore, we grabbed a wrench and tightened till
24 We removed the tape and installed the line on the engine. We used a simple clamp to hold the hose over where it needs to be. This line cost us $117.85 to make, mainly because the Pro-Lite hose is $72.95 for 10 feet. If this was all we were doing, a 3-foot section at $25.95 could have been used which would change the total to $70.85 Pros: good looks, easy to create, can be rerouted, almost zero tool cost. Cons: not as durable as hardline, more expensive.
24 We removed the tape and installed the line on the engine. We used a simple clamp to ho

SOURCES
Earl's Performance Plumbing 1801 Russellville Road Bowling Green KY 42101 270-781-9741 www.earlsplumbing.com	Holley Performance Products 1801 Russellville Rd P.O. Box 10360 Bowling Green KY 42102 270-782-2900 www.holley.com