Chevy 350 Small Block Build - Super Chevy Magazine

Chevy 350 Small Block Build Engine Parts

Here's Patrick Swegles' (our first time engine builder) sea of cool go-fast parts. This month Pat assembled the short-block using a master build kit from PAW. He also installed an oil pump, windage tray and deep sump pan from Milodon.

Here's Patrick Swegles' (our first time engine builder) sea of cool go-fast parts. This mo

You can take it apart, but you might not be able to put it back together again." Heard that saying before? For sure. We all know that it's much easier to unbolt parts from our projects than it is to reinstall them. That's the reason there are so many unfinished machines out there. But for My First Engine Builder, Patrick Swegles, and his 350 project, there's only one goal in mind: meticulous assembly of the Performance Automotive Warehouse (PAW)-sponsored small-block.

Last month, in Part 2 of our series, Patrick drove out to PAW and dropped off all the old components to the Mouse motor that he had torn apart the month before. As it turned out, virtually nothing was usable from that first donor powerplant. The lesson that Patrick learned was a valuable one, however. One that every first-timer experiences one way or another.

After a new engine block was located, Patrick left it in the very capable hands of the speed experts at PAW. As we showed you, the machining processes were meticulously completed and Patrick was anxious to get started on putting his first Chevy engine together.

One of the main goals of this story is to emphasize that most anyone with basic mechanical skills can build their own engine. But an equally important part to this editorial is to point out just how easy it is to get everything you need from one source, just like going to the grocery store. That's where PAW fits in nicely. Since Patrick is a busy cabinetmaker, his time is slim when it comes to chasing down parts. For this purpose, a simple call was made to PAW and a decision was arrived at for what combination would best suit Pat's needs. The experts at PAW listened and determined that one of their popular Super Stock Master kits was perfect for his engine.

Chevy 350 Small Block Build Post Cleanup

The first step taken by Patrick was to completely wash the newly machined block with soap and water. Once cleaned and air dried, a little oil to the machined surfaces prevented rusting.

The first step taken by Patrick was to completely wash the newly machined block with soap

The PAW kit includes basically everything needed to assemble the short-block-from pistons and rods, to cam and lifters, to crankshaft and timing set. It even includes gaskets, the oil pump, and all bearings and piston rings. All Pat had to add was his time, a clean place and some grease, Plastigage, sealer, and a dose of patience.

While there are some who have had experience building a small-block Chevy that will tell you what corners to cut, Patrick's goal was to go step by step and understand what he was doing. From checking ring endgap to bearing clearances, Pat's motive was simply to experience the task of doing the procedures and seeing the results. Surely most of us who have assembled an engine have skipped basic blueprinting procedures one time or another such as checking crank endplay or deck height, simply because we knew by looking at it that it was correct. But for the first-timer, there's nothing like seeing the results for yourself.

In this month's segment, we'll watch as Patrick assembles the short-block using the PAW kit and select components from Milodon. In next month's series finale, Patrick will install a cool set of World Products S/R Torquer heads and intake manifold, as well as a Mallory ignition system, all in time for his dyno date at the Vrbancic Brother's DTS engine dyno. So stay tuned, and consider Patrick's adventure that any one of you first-timers could be on.

The next goal was to determine the correct main bearing clearance. First the bearings were put in place then the crank's journals were cleaned.
The next goal was to determine the correct main bearing clearance. First the bearings were
The balance of the oil used to coat the block went to good use, as Patrick put the hydraulic lifters into an old coffee can and poured in the oil. This is best to do at least 24 hours before you plan on installing them in the engine.
The balance of the oil used to coat the block went to good use, as Patrick put the hydraul
A quick glance in a small-block Chevy reference manual for the correct specs is always a good idea. Here, Pat was a willing participant.
A quick glance in a small-block Chevy reference manual for the correct specs is always a g

Checking the main bearing clearance can be done one of two ways. First, you can assemble the main bearings in the block without the crank, torque the caps down, and then use an inside micrometer to determine the ID of the bearings. Then, by using an outside mike and measuring each journal, you simply do the math. A much simpler way is to use Plastigage. This thin, plastic-like material is designed to be placed between the crank and bearing. Once torqued down, the Plastigage is measured and its width determines what the clearance between the crank journal and bearing is.
Checking the main bearing clearance can be done one of two ways. First, you can assemble t
And finally the cast-iron arm was carefully placed into the block. Note that there is no grease or lubricant used at this point.
And finally the cast-iron arm was carefully placed into the block. Note that there is no g
Works every time.

One of the other items that Pat picked up from PAW was a complete engine fastener kit from Milodon. One of the components was a set of main bearing cap studs designed to be used especially with Milodon's trick windage tray. As with any fastener, a good lubricant should be used prior to installation.
One of the other items that Pat picked up from PAW was a complete engine fastener kit from
One area that Patrick got the benefit of better tools and techniques was in checking the crank's endplay. A dial indicator and magnetic stand made quick and accurate pickings of this spec. However, a feeler gauge stuffed between the thrust bearing and the crank's fifth journal does the job just fine.
One area that Patrick got the benefit of better tools and techniques was in checking the c
Patrick's next step was to undo all of the main caps and lubricate all of the bearings. This required removing the crankshaft one more time.
Patrick's next step was to undo all of the main caps and lubricate all of the bearings. Th

A good torque wrench is an engine builder's most trusted friend. If the book says torque the bolts to 65 and use oil as a lubricant, do it!
A good torque wrench is an engine builder's most trusted friend. If the book says torque t
Don't we wish more things in life had such easy directions? How could you go wrong with an arrow on top of the piston telling you what way to point it in the bore? Well, believe it or not, you can install them just the way they tell you and still be wrong. That's because they have to coordinate with the connecting rod. And since a piston can go on a rod either way, you have to make sure they are aligned properly. In Patrick's case, PAW had marked each piston/rod combo with an L or R, indicating what side of the engine it needed to go in.
Don't we wish more things in life had such easy directions? How could you go wrong with an
Note the absence of rings. Subsequently, no ring compressor was needed to get the pistons in their bores. It is important to keep the rod bolts from scoring the cylinder walls or crank journal. Therefore, caution is the best thing here.
Note the absence of rings. Subsequently, no ring compressor was needed to get the pistons

Checking the rod bearing clearance is an important part of building a reliable engine. As with the crank, the bearing was installed dry and the piston/rod was installed in the block and torqued down.
Checking the rod bearing clearance is an important part of building a reliable engine. As
Again, Plastigage is used on the crank's rod journal. The cap is tightened to its correct torque spec and the squished Plastigage is measured. Voila, our rod bearing clearance was dead on.
Again, Plastigage is used on the crank's rod journal. The cap is tightened to its correct
With bearing clearances checked, Patrick moved on to making sure that the rings would fit perfectly in the freshly bored cylinder walls. Using another special tool (which only made the job easier), each ring was squared in the bore and the end gap was measured with a standard feeler gauge.
With bearing clearances checked, Patrick moved on to making sure that the rings would fit

Once all the end gaps checked out okay, it was time to put the rings on the pistons. Even with cool tools to do this task, the job still requires a matter of physical dexterity. Here, the main oil ring is installed.
Once all the end gaps checked out okay, it was time to put the rings on the pistons. Even
The two compression rings are installed using a ring spreader. This tool creates even pressure to expand the rings, allowing them to slip over the piston's crown and into their respective groove. Care is imperative here, as these rings can break if you're too aggressive.
The two compression rings are installed using a ring spreader. This tool creates even pres
With the rings in place, the next operation is to grease the bearings on each side of the rod's large end. This is because two rods on each journal will rub against each other when the engine is running. This rod side clearance will be checked with a feeler gauge once all of the piston/rod combos are in place.
With the rings in place, the next operation is to grease the bearings on each side of the

A tapered ring compressor is used to get the pistons into the block. A hammer, such as this trick plastic, lead shot-filled unit from Powerhouse, made this a simple chore for our first-timer, Pat.
A tapered ring compressor is used to get the pistons into the block. A hammer, such as thi
Milodon provided the complete oil system for Patrick's engine. Included were the aforementioned windage tray, an oil pump baffle, which controls the oil at the back of the pan, a 7-quart kickout-style pan, and a high-pressure pump with a custom pickup. Note the studs for the windage tray and the steel coupling collar for the driveshaft. The factory shaft uses a breakable plastic collar to connect the shaft to the oil pump.
Milodon provided the complete oil system for Patrick's engine. Included were the aforement
Here's Milodon's screen-style windage tray. You must fit the tray over the studs and lower the nuts in order to get the correct clearance between the tray and the rotating assembly. Once in correct relation, the bottom nuts are torqued down.
Here's Milodon's screen-style windage tray. You must fit the tray over the studs and lower

The Milodon special pickup is fit into the pump and has an extra support strap, which is bolted to the pump body. This makes it virtually impossible for it to separate from the pump.
The Milodon special pickup is fit into the pump and has an extra support strap, which is b
Camshaft installation is made simpler with a tool like the one Patrick used from Powerhouse. With the cam's rear journal in the block's front bearing, Pat coated every lobe and journal with a special break-in lubricant. The special tool simply bolts to the front of the cam and allows you to ease it in the block.
Camshaft installation is made simpler with a tool like the one Patrick used from Powerhous
The double-roller timing set fits easily around the crank gear and bolts to the cam with three grade 8 fasteners. Patrick also used a cam locking plate, which has a tang at each bolt head that is folded over to prevent the bolt from coming loose. Pat really liked this idea.
The double-roller timing set fits easily around the crank gear and bolts to the cam with t

Before the Milodon pan could be installed, the new one-piece rear seal needed to be bolted down. Patrick found the easiest way to do this was to take the engine off of the stand and hang it from the hoist.
Before the Milodon pan could be installed, the new one-piece rear seal needed to be bolted
Once back on the stand, the good-looking kickout pan was installed.
In next month's final installment, Patrick will finish off his first engine with a set of World Products cylinder heads as well as a host of other bolt-ons like a Milodon aluminum water pump and a new harmonic balancer. Stay tuned.
In next month's final installment, Patrick will finish off his first engine with a set of