2010 SS Camaro ProCharger Kit - Get Z28 Power Before It Hits The Streets (WEB EXCLUSIVE)

Next, the main bracket assembly is installed using the included bolts. The belt tension is adjusted to the extreme loose adjustment to later install the blower belt.

Before installing the compressor housing (blower), go ahead and install the supplied oil drain line. After the housing is installed, route this line to the bottom of the car someplace for easy access when changing the blower’s oil. You should change the blower oil after the first 500 miles, then every 6000-7000 miles, using only ProCharger’s special blower oil. Not using ProCharger oil can void the blower’s warranty.

The blower slips in snuggly to its bracket and then is bolted down. After that, the blower belt is installed.

With the blower and belt installed, the belt tension is set on the blower belt. The tensioner arm is indexed, so just follow the instructions on where to set the initial tension before first running.

With the blower set, the new upper radiator hose can be installed using the factory T fitting.

Time to go back underneath the car and install the air inlet/outlet tubing and couplers. As you install all the tubes, leave the hose clamps around the rubber couplers loose so you can easily make adjustments to get all the tubes connected and lined up properly with the blower, intercooler, and intake throttle body.

With all the inlet/outlet tubing lined up except for the intake tube, the radiator fan assembly is reinstalled. Don’t forget to plug this back in after the install is finished.

Using a pair of supplied zip ties, secure these two transmission cooler lines together to keep them from touching the blower pulley and being sawed open while the car is running.

The surge valve assembly is installed on the lower intercooler tubing, then its vacuum source routed from the power brake booster line using a special fitting included with the kit.

The factory mass air meter is reused with this blower. Remove the meter form the factory air inlet tube, and reinstall in the new ProCharger inlet tube using the supplied bolts.

With the meter installed the inlet tube is set in place and coupled to the intercooler outlet tube using the supplied coupler. Once everything is lined up, using the included silicon coupler to connect to the tube to the throttle body. With all of the inlet/outlet tubes lined up and connected, go back and tighten all the hose clamps and make sure everything is sealed properly. If a coupler isn’t sealed correctly, under boost it’ll blow off and cause problems.

Reinstall the factory radiator overflow tank and reconnect the lines to the radiator. Then you can refill the radiator. After the install is complete, with the engine running, leave the radiator cap off and let the temperature come up and the thermostat to open so you can “burp” the engine of any trapped air inside the cooling system.

Here is the special fitting installed into the brake power booster vacuum line to supply vacuum to the surge valve. If you try to pull vacuum from another source, when the blower starts making boost, you’ll have pressure instead of vacuum, and this will cause the surge valve to malfunction.

Next up is to change the fuel injectors. First thing to do is release the pressure in the fuel rails using the Schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail. Once the pressure is released, you can start unbolting the fuel rail assembly form the intake manifold.

With the fuel rail pulled out, each injector is swapped out for a higher flow unit included with the kit.

Each injector is held into the rail by a small clip. Using a small flat bladed screwdriver, release this clip, then slide the injector out.

Included with the kit is a set of FAST higher pressure fuel injectors. Running a blower on an engine with fuel injectors that can’t flow enough fuel under boost will inevitably lead to detonation and engine damage/failure. Each FAST injector is marked with a FAST stick, so you can’t get them mixed up with the stock injectors.

Use a little Vaseline on the injector o-rings to help them seat/install in the rail easier, and prevent them from pinching. Once seated, reinstall the factory retaining clip, and you’re good to go.

With all the new injectors installed, reinstall the fuel rail in reverse order of removal. Make sure all your factory injectors are accounted for to be certain you didn’t reinstall any of the lower pressure factory injectors.

Next up is making sure the PCV system is rerouted properly for the blower. If you left this factory line in place, under boost, the blower would also pressurize the crank case, which causes severe engine damage and possible failure.

Using supplied parts, one end is capped off, and a hose attached to the other outlet and routed to a nipple fitting installed into the air filter assembly so there is always vacuum connected to the PCV system and never boost.

With everything taken care of engine wise, the engine cover is reinstalled so the blower inlet tube and air filter can be installed. Seems a shame to hide such a nice engine beneath a clumsy plastic cover, but oh well.

The blower inlet tube is installed and secured with the supplied coupler. The tab just under the tube was used to mount the factory air box, and to clear the new inlet tube you might have to bend the tab out of the way for extra clearance.

With everything installed and tighten up, the front nose is reinstalled in the reverse order of removal and the inner fender liners reinstalled.

Fully installed the bright polished parts of the ProCharger kit light up the dark confines of the 2010’s engine bay, and didn’t require any sort of drilling, cutting, or other major modifications to the body of the car, so it can be returned to bone stock without a problem if necessary.

Using a SCT handheld tuner, the required tuning of the Camaro’s computer is done with the touch of a button so the most can be made of the supercharger’s performance boost. The handheld unit also provides some fine tuning capabilities if you need to adjust any of the parameters of the “blower tune” installed on the computer, and will store the stock tune in case you ever remove the blower and run the car without it.

With everything all set, the car was strapped back down to the Mustang Dyno, and the results were fantastic. The Camaro made 519 HP at the rear wheels, an increase of 155 horsepower, still using the stock exhaust. With a better flowing exhaust, the blower’s performance boost would increase substantially.