Beefing Up The 10-bolt From A Second-Gen Camaro

Chevrolet Camaro 10 Bolt Rearend Build Moser

There's nothing like having the confidence of knowing your hot rod's got the strength to handle almost anything you can, or plan, to throw at it. Especially the rearend. If you participate in any kind of straight-line racing, or any kind of racing for that matter, you'll need a set of beefy gears that can hang tough through a long day at the track. Merely bolting on a set of drag tires or slicks can play havoc on a flimsy factory 10-bolt. Add into the equation some VHT, or any other traction enhancer and you're just asking for trouble.

Even on the street, a set of fat, sticky tires coupled with some uneven pavement could result in a ring gear teeth-shattering episode at the hit of the throttle.

Simply put, more traction means more stress on your driveline components.

Chevrolet Camaro 10 Bolt Rearend Build Old Ring Gear And Diff

01 To get started, Mike removed the old cover. Be pre-pared with a container underneath to capture the used oil.

01 To get started, Mike removed the old cover. Be pre-pared with a container underneath

One remedy is to ditch the stock 10-bolt and scour the swap meets for a used 12-bolt setup. This could take more time than you're willing to invest, could induce sore feet, and there's a good chance you'll be driving home empty handed. And, if you do happen to find one in good shape, it may be rough on your wallet as well.

Aftermarket companies that offer 12-bolts are an excellent source, as they offer a plethora of high-quality units. But if your racing budget is slightly less than your grocery bills, this route may cost a bit more coin than you're willing to spend on your "little hobby."

For our purposes we'll be upgrading a factory 10-bolt rearend with Moser's 1970-and-later 10-bolt upgrade kit for factory late-model GM passenger cars. It uses an 8.5 diameter ring gear (vs. the 8-7/8-inch 12-bolt) and stronger 30-spline axles (vs. the stock 28-spline) and added a 30-spline posi unit. This is a drag car, so we went with 4.88 gears and a C-clip eliminator kit, which adds safety in the case of a broken axle. If such an accident were to happen with this system, the wheel would remain bolted to the backing plate.

Chevrolet Camaro 10 Bolt Rearend Build Removing The Driveshaft

02 Next up was to remove the driveshaft by removing the u-bolts from the yoke.

To top things off we added the Moser cast-aluminum performance cover. Not only does it look great, it incorporates preload screws for bearing cap support, added strength and also eliminates deflection.

For this installation, Moser included Richmond gears and a Detroit Truetrac limited slip differential. This will provide us with plenty of strength (about 50 percent over stock components) necessary for our high 10-second 1980 drag Camaro.

We could have gone with a brand new Moser 12-bolt as a legitimate option for even more strength (the housing is stronger than an original factory, and the tubes are welded in a full 360 degrees and are 1/4-inch thick, as opposed to the 1/8-inch thick factory housing), but we wanted to show what's available for a bit less dough. The Moser 10-bolt upgrade costs just about half, give or take, than the complete Moser 12-bolt system, and will provide plenty of strength for our needs.

We enlisted the installation services of Mike Bastio from Toy Shop Transmissions in Pomona, California. Mike informed us that labor for an install like this will vary from shop to shop, but suggested that you put aside another $400 if you have someone else do the work.

Although we'll be using this unit in a drag racing situation, we highly recommend this upgrade for street use as well. With today's high-performance engines making more horsepower than ever before, you can't afford not to pay attention to your assets. So don't take a chance, or you could risk losing your rear ... end.

Compare The Cost
10-Bolt 8.5-inch Components
30-Spline Custom Alloy Axles	$315.00
Stock Chevy Studs	$17.50
GM Eliminators	$150.00
4.88 Gears	$175.00
10-Bolt Cover	$160.00
TrueTrac Posi (30-spline)	$445.00
Setup Kits	$100.00
Total	$1,362.50 + Shipping

12-Bolt Leaf Spring & Bare
Leaf Spring Housing (M/E Ends)	$739.00
M/E Custom Alloy Axles	$315.00
Bearing Package	$100.00
TrueTrac (30-Spline)	$465.00
Moser Pro Street Gears	$155.00
#R12B Setup Kit	$100.00
#PY100 Pinion Yoke - 1350	$130.00
#7110 Performance Cover	$160.00
Setup Labor	$150.00
Crate Fee	$25.00
Discount For Complete Rear	-$ 75.00
Total	$2,264.00 + Shipping

03 Before removing the bearing caps it's a good idea to put identifying marks on each cap signifying right and left. It's very important these are reinstalled correctly.
03 Before removing the bearing caps it's a good idea to put identifying marks on each ca
04 Next was to remove the center-pin bolt to get the axles out.
05 Our center-pin bolt was broken, so we had to cut the differential pin in order to get the center pin itself out. It isn't entirely uncommon for this to happen, so be prepared.
05 Our center-pin bolt was broken, so we had to cut the differential pin in order to get

06 Here, Mike digs it out the center pin bolt. This is the only way to get this out if the threaded section is stuck inside.
06 Here, Mike digs it out the center pin bolt. This is the only way to get this out if t
07 Now the center pin can be removed.
08 The next order of business was to remove the C-clip in order to free the axles.
08 The next order of business was to remove the C-clip in order to free the axles.

09 Due to the design of our new axles, we won't be using this clip any more.
09 Due to the design of our new axles, we won't be using this clip any more.
10 Now we can remove the bearing caps. Sometimes this needs to be pried out, but ours came out smoothly with no issues.
10 Now we can remove the bearing caps. Sometimes this needs to be pried out, but ours ca
11 Don't worry about the shims, as we'll be using new ones supplied in the kit.
11 Don't worry about the shims, as we'll be using new ones supplied in the kit.

12 Take out the pinion by removing the pinion nut.
13 Mike uses a puller to remove the yoke. This can be tapped out with a hammer if you don't have access to a puller.
13 Mike uses a puller to remove the yoke. This can be tapped out with a hammer if you do
14 Next we removed the pinion.

15 Don't forget to tap out the bearing race on each side.
16 Next we had to pull off the brakes, since we won't be using the C-clips. This will make sense later in the installation process. If you were to use standard axles, you wouldn't have to do this step.
16 Next we had to pull off the brakes, since we won't be using the C-clips. This will ma
17 Next was to cut off the axle seals and bearings while leaving a 1/4-inch lip.
17 Next was to cut off the axle seals and bearings while leaving a 1/4-inch lip.

18 Be sure to smooth ...
19 ... and clean up where the cuts were made.
20 Mike smoothes off the rearend housing and cleans out the old grease with brake cleaner. Do the same with the axle housing.
20 Mike smoothes off the rearend housing and cleans out the old grease with brake cleane

21 Start assembly by installing the new bearing races first. With a bearing driver, be sure they're pressed in completely. It's important to double-check they're in as far as possible.
21 Start assembly by installing the new bearing races first. With a bearing driver, be s
22 Grease up the front pinion bearing ...
23 ... and the pinion seal.

24 Set in the pinion bearing and tap in the bearing seal.
25 The old pinion shim was stamped .038-inch, but, over time, wear decreased it to .036-inch. The new shims come in various sizes. We combined the shims from the kit to equal .038-inch, as suggested for the kit.
25 The old pinion shim was stamped .038-inch, but, over time, wear decreased it to .036-
26 Mike pressed on the new rear pinion bearing.

27 Then put on the crush sleeve.
28 Useful tip: Coat the splines with pipe sealer to prevent oil leakage.
29 The pinion goes in and the nut and washer are installed next.

30 Tighten down the pinion nut to 15 pounds of drag. The ring and pinion kit recommends 20-25 pounds of torque for new bearings, and 10-15 pounds for old bearings.
30 Tighten down the pinion nut to 15 pounds of drag. The ring and pinion kit recommends
31 Next we press on the carrier bearing. Again, make sure it's all the way on. Just a few thousandths off will cause big trouble later.
31 Next we press on the carrier bearing. Again, make sure it's all the way on. Just a fe
32 It's important to use Loctite on the bolts before attaching the ring gear.
32 It's important to use Loctite on the bolts before attaching the ring gear.

33 Make sure the ring gear is completely flat before completely tightening. You'll want to make sure the flange is centered as well.
33 Make sure the ring gear is completely flat before completely tightening. You'll want
34 Grease up each side of the carrier and side bearings before you put on the side races.
34 Grease up each side of the carrier and side bearings before you put on the side races
35 Mike used the old shims as a reference point for fitment of the new carrier. If the shims fall in they're too loose, if you have to hammer them in hard, they're too tight. If the old shims are too tight they'll break when you hammer them in. They should be snug, but not too tight.
35 Mike used the old shims as a reference point for fitment of the new carrier. If the s

36 Remember when we marked the bearing caps and rear housing? Here's where that paid off. We used our tap marks from removal so we know the difference between the right and left bearing caps.
36 Remember when we marked the bearing caps and rear housing? Here's where that paid off
37 Slowly tighten the caps, as they're pushing the carrier the rest of the way in.
37 Slowly tighten the caps, as they're pushing the carrier the rest of the way in.
38 This may be the most important part of the installation. Using a dial indicator to measure backlash, we want between .008-inch and .014-inch. Mike recommends keeping the backlash around .008-inch. That's not too tight to cause any binding, and the gears still move smoothly.
38 This may be the most important part of the installation. Using a dial indicator to me

39 Our first shot was measured at .019 backlash so we had to remove the carrier once to get it within our specs. Mike then measured the shims from the kit to equal to .240 on each side.
39 Our first shot was measured at .019 backlash so we had to remove the carrier once to
40 Tap in the new shims best you can before tightening down the bearing caps. Here we use gear-marking compound to analyze tooth contact.
40 Tap in the new shims best you can before tightening down the bearing caps. Here we us
41 On our second attempt we got it to .009, which is just where we want to be.
41 On our second attempt we got it to .009, which is just where we want to be.

42 As you can see by using the gear-marking compound, we can tell precisely where the contact is. These look just about right. You don't want the mark to be too far near the top or bottom, as that concludes a weak contact point ensuring early failure. With a few cracks of the throttle, you could have stripped gears.
42 As you can see by using the gear-marking compound, we can tell precisely where the co
43 Now it was time to install the new axles. Mike used silicone on the flange before putting the brakes back on for a good seal.
43 Now it was time to install the new axles. Mike used silicone on the flange before put
44 Be sure to use silicone on the axle bearing too.

45 Slide the axle in. Remember, we don't use the C-clip in the carrier with this kit.
45 Slide the axle in. Remember, we don't use the C-clip in the carrier with this kit.
46 Next we set in the axle spacer.
47 The retaining cylinder is held in with the supplied snap ring.

48 Then it was time to bolt on the rearend housing cover. Remember to use the gasket that comes in the kit, and be sure the load bolts are backed off before tightening the housing bolts. You'll need to torque the mounting bolts to 25 ft-lb, then tighten the load bolts until they make contact with the carrier caps. These should torque down just 5 pounds.
48 Then it was time to bolt on the rearend housing cover. Remember to use the gasket tha
49 Another tip: Use pipe sealer on the drain plug, filler cap and the load bolts to prevent any leakage.
49 Another tip: Use pipe sealer on the drain plug, filler cap and the load bolts to prev
50 Mike used the side filler (oil) due to the new rearend housing cap being higher than stock.
50 Mike used the side filler (oil) due to the new rearend housing cap being higher than

51 With the gear oil filled to half axle height, it was time to put the drive shaft back in.
51 With the gear oil filled to half axle height, it was time to put the drive shaft back
52 Tighten down the front and rear U-joints and you're good to go.
53 The payoff! Mike makes sure everything is working properly.