1963 Chevrolet Nova Wagon V8 Swap - Should’ve Had A V-8

To get everyone up to speed, let me highlight what went down. Jason Scudellari, our tech center manager, and I got busy and had the motor out in a jiffy. We pulled the engine and trans separately because it was a lot easier than trying to tilt the long inline-six with the trans over the core support.

To get everyone up to speed, let me highlight what went down. Jason Scudellari, our tech c

If you didn’t know, we here at Super Chevy produce a few extra magazines every year we call specials. With titles like Chevelle, Chevy Classics, and the Nova Annual, you can tell what these are all about. In this year’s Nova special (on sale March 29), I, with the help of Jason Scudellari, took on the task of doing a budget-minded small-block and overdrive trans swap into a ’63 Nova wagon. Well, as things go sometimes, we didn’t get the job done. I ran into a big road block in the way of lack of information. I tried finding a complete parts list of everything you need to do the swap, but could not.

Case in point: the water pump. I went with a short-style just to be safe on the fan clearance, but when I tried to fit the alternator it hit the valve cover and the strut tower. Yes, I had some things going against me, like taller valve covers and a possibly larger alternator, so I returned the short stuff and went with a long pump setup, which let me put the alt on the other side of the block in front of the valve cover. I prefer the long water-pump setup anyway because of the shorter belts and cleaner looks. But that now changed my wiring needs, and that is how things kind of went. Every change affected something else.

1 Before we could stab the new 290hp GM Performance Parts crate engine in the hole, we had to install the Chevy 2 Only front sump oil pan and the related parts that go with it. One thing to note on the new GMPP engines is that they have a provision for oil dipsticks on both sides. The oil pan takes care of the driver's side, but we had to fill the dipstick provision on the passenger side with JB Weld to create a sealing surface.

1 Before we could stab the new 290hp GM Performance Parts crate engine in the hole, we ha

We went with a minimal budget/mail order mindset on this project, so you won’t find billet pulleys, fuel injection or the likejust a simple carb and some shiny stuff so it still looks custom. I could have dropped the dollar figure considerably by going to the junkyard and getting a bunch of used stuff. The only issue I have with that is I can’t guarantee your local yard will have what mine does, so it all needed to be new and available across the country.

Not wanting to leave things incomplete, this story is going to show the rest of the job with a complete parts list with part numbers, prices, and where to get it all. I’ll start off with a brief recap of what went down in the Nova Annual and then finish it off. Also, there’s a separate story on page 96 about building this Nova’s exhaust system so be sure to check it out.

2 These motor mount perches are another part of the Chevy 2 Only conversion kit and bolt right in. These will place the engine in the proper location, which will help with all the other bolt-on parts, like the Energy Suspension motor mounts.
2 These motor mount perches are another part of the Chevy 2 Only conversion kit and bolt
3 The Gearstar 700-R4 is a completely remanufactured and upgraded trans that comes with just about everything you need to install. A technician at Gearstar will ask a bunch of questions about rearend gears, horsepower of the engine, and rear tire size when ordering so the company can make sure the shift points and the speedo will be spot-on. The other main component in the trans portion of the swap is the crossmember from Chevy 2 Only. It is a true bolt-in piece and places the trans in the right spot to hook up to the motor.
3 The Gearstar 700-R4 is a completely remanufactured and upgraded trans that comes with j
4 With the motor in, we started installing some other goodies like these Sanderson shorty headers. They feature ultra thick flanges and we went with the ceramic coating so they will look good for a long time. Just make sure when you install them that you put the flatter one on the driver's side and the one with the longer tubes (shown here) on the passenger side.
4 With the motor in, we started installing some other goodies like these Sanderson shorty

5 Initially, we were running a short water pump setup, but found out that there was not enough clearance between the strut tower and valve cover for the alternator to tuck in there. We had enough room to run a long water pump, so we returned the short stuff and ordered all these parts from Trans Dapt to use a long water pump. Here is what the setup looks like once it's all installed. The 63-amp, one wire, internally regulated, GM 10si case, alternator from Summit will provide enough juice for what we have in the Nova.
5 Initially, we were running a short water pump setup, but found out that there was not e
6 To keep the V-8 cool, we went with this high-efficiency copper core four-core radiator from US Radiator. It is beefier than the stock one we took out, but still is designed to fit in the early Nova. Come to find out the mounting holes on a '63 I-6 core support are a bit too close together, so Jason grabbed a grinding wheel and elongated the factory holes just enough to get them started.
6 To keep the V-8 cool, we went with this high-efficiency copper core four-core radiator
7 We had to bend new hard lines for a couple of things like the transmission and the fuel feed. Jason routed them along the edge of the oil pan and then to the passenger side of the core support so we could hook them to the new cooler in front of the radiator. You can also see the new fuel line with filter he bent up.
7 We had to bend new hard lines for a couple of things like the transmission and the fuel

8 The last thing we had time to do in the previous story was install the Holley 670cfm Street Avenger carb from Summit. This is the recommended carb for the motor and features vacuum secondaries, electric choke, and any vacuum ports we may need. We had to change out the throttle arm at the firewall for a V-8 arm that we got from Chevy 2 Only, along with the new rod and install kit that includes the grommets and stuff needed to hook it to the carb. Now let's continue on with the new stuff.
8 The last thing we had time to do in the previous story was install the Holley 670cfm St
9 We had to go back and add this geometry kit to the carb so the trans cable going down to the 700 would pull the correct amount and let it shift properly. Another thing used that helped with the entire build was an ARP black, 12-point bolt kit because a lot of the stuff doesn't come with hardware.
9 We had to go back and add this geometry kit to the carb so the trans cable going down t
10 Initially, the stock wiring was just going to get rerouted, but it was way too brittle. Chevy 2 Only offers these new harnesses that have been designed for newer technology like an HEI distributor and a passenger-side alternator.
10 Initially, the stock wiring was just going to get rerouted, but it was way too brittle

11 The new alternator wires are inside the front light harness so the old one needed to come out. The new one went in like a factory piece with just the alt wires being different. Those were routed behind the battery and then across to the block with the heater hoses so you don't really see them.
11 The new alternator wires are inside the front light harness so the old one needed to c
12 The engine harness has the new HEI wiring in it so it feeds the new distributor with 12 volts. It goes in pretty easily as it only has a few wires in it, but there is some work that needs to be done under the dash. A new ignition switch wire needs to be installed between the switch and the fuse block. It has the correct factory terminals on it, but you will need a terminal removal tool to get it out from the fuse panel and the plug on the switch.
12 The engine harness has the new HEI wiring in it so it feeds the new distributor with 1
13 The factory pink wire you pull out of the switch will get plugged back into the new wire from the harness as shown here to feed anything it is tied to in the factory harness.
13 The factory pink wire you pull out of the switch will get plugged back into the new wi

14 Since the driveshaft needed to be shortened a couple inches and a fine spline yolk installed to work with the new OD trans, we took it to our local driveline shop. The Powerglide uses a course spline on the yolk shown in the inset photo.
14 Since the driveshaft needed to be shortened a couple inches and a fine spline yolk ins
15 The shaft shop did it all for $233.82, including new U-joints.
16 To hook up the column shift to the new trans, we ordered a Transmission Shift Arm Conversion from Kugel Komponents.
16 To hook up the column shift to the new trans, we ordered a Transmission Shift Arm Conv

17 The Kugel setup replaces all the factory linkage and allows you to adjust the throw of the shift arm, thanks to the long slot in this piece attached to the trans.
17 The Kugel setup replaces all the factory linkage and allows you to adjust the throw of
18 The other end of the arm goes directly up to the steering column. The Kugel arm has absolutely no slop in it so the shift lever in the car feels awesome.
18 The other end of the arm goes directly up to the steering column. The Kugel arm has ab
19 There is only one electrical hook up that needs to be addressed for the trans. This little vacuum switch will prevent the converter from locking up under wide-open throttle, heavy acceleration, or while going up a steep grade. One wire goes down to the trans and one wire needed to be run into the interior and tapped into a keyed 12V source. It also needs a vacuum line ran to it that was picked up from under the carb at one of the many ports.
19 There is only one electrical hook up that needs to be addressed for the trans. This li

20 The last thing to install for the trans was this Lokar flexible dipstick tube. The rigid steel dipstick tube supplied by Gearstar hit the firewall so this will cure that problem.
20 The last thing to install for the trans was this Lokar flexible dipstick tube. The rig
21 Before we dropped in the Summit HEI distributor, we filled the engine with Comp Cams Break-In oil and then primed the engine. This will make sure we have that protective fluid everywhere before we hit the key.
21 Before we dropped in the Summit HEI distributor, we filled the engine with Comp Cams B
22 The larger body of the HEI does fit, but it is pretty close to the firewall. Jason brought the motor up to TDC on the number one cylinder before dropping in the distributor.
22 The larger body of the HEI does fit, but it is pretty close to the firewall. Jason bro

23 Chevy 2 Only has the radiator hoses for the swap, but we were in a time crunch so they gave us the part numbers so we could pick them up from our local parts store. They needed a little trimming to fit properly.
23 Chevy 2 Only has the radiator hoses for the swap, but we were in a time crunch so they
24 With all the hoses on, Jason filled the engine with just water for now. Once we confirm we have no leaks we will drain out the water and put in the proper coolant mixture.
24 With all the hoses on, Jason filled the engine with just water for now. Once we confir
25 Now it was time for the moment of truth. Jason unplugged the HEI and cranked the engine over until fuel reached the carb with a starter button. Once we had fuel he hooked the HEI back up and lit the engine off. With timing light in hand Jason set the timing really quick and then brought the motor up to 3,000 rpm to break in the cam. While that was happening we looked for leaks and kept an eye on the temp. Everything checked out so that pretty much finishes the job. The car now sounds like it should, has way more power and floats right along when the trans clicks into overdrive. Now check out the massive parts breakdown side bar so you can be more prepared than we were when you start your own V-8 swap.
25 Now it was time for the moment of truth. Jason unplugged the HEI and cranked the engin

The List

Company	Part Name	Part #	Price
GMPP	Deluxe 350	19244450	2,900.00
	Flexplate 158 tooth	00471529	106.00
	Harmonic Balancer	12551537	60.70
Gearstar	7004R Trans	Road Tour Package	1,905.00
Lokar	Dipstick	TD-3700FM	90.00
Chevy 2 Only	'62-'67 V-8 conversion kit	01009	329.95
	Oil pan	13200	Included in kit
	Oil pick up tube	01002	Included in kit
	Main cap bolt w/stud	01002-1	Included in kit
	Oil Pump stock performance	01003	Included in kit
	Oil pump drive rod	01004	Included in kit
	Dip stick tube	01005	Included in kit
	Dip stick	01006	Included in kit
	Frame mount pair	01007	Included in kit
	Dip stick delete plug 7/16	01040	Included in kit
	Dip stick delete plug 3/8	01040-1	Included in kit
	Transmission crossmember	16002	139.95
	Accelerator arm	01010	26.95
	Accelerator rod	1010-1	17.95
	Accelerator rod install kit	01020	7.95
	Front light harness	85003-1P	159.95
	Engine Harness	87009-1	99.95
Summit Racing	HEI Distributor	SUM-850001R	89.95
	Moroso plug wires	MOR-73684	59.95
	Wire separator kit	SUM-890045	6.95
	180 Thermostat	SUM-360180	7.95
	Holley 670cfm carb	HLY-0-80670	365.95
	Mechanical fuel pump	SUM-250000-1	44.88
	Fuel pump push rod	ATX-PR936	10.95
	Fuel Pump Plate	NAL-3719599	6.95
	63 amp alternator (1 wire)	SUM-G1666	96.95
	Fan	SUM-G4946	15.95
	2-inch fan spacer kit	SUM-G4955	9.95
	Oil-Filter Adapter	SES-3-60-08-900	19.95
ARP	Bolt Kit 12 point black	534-9701	93.95
	Balancer Bolt	134-2501	21.61
	Carb Stud kit	200-2401	15.95
Trans Dapt	Thermostat housing (Black)	8633	43.43
	Alternator Bracket kit (LWP)	9316	24.18
	Upper pulley (1 groove chrome)	9604	33.94
	Lower Pulley (1 groove chrome)	9606	62.59
Parts store	Hitachi Starter	PLS100	126.27
	Edelbrock choke block off plate	8901	13.96
	Holley EGR block off plate	9007	9.10
	Fuel pump plate gasket	5182	.87
	Long water pump (LWP)	CP1109	29.99
	Spectre fuel filter	5965	5.99
	Spectre Heater hose fitting	5953	6.99
	Spectre Pipe plug kit	60183	13.99
	3 sections of 5/16 line w/fittings	N/A	18.98
	90-deg flare fittings, fuel pump	5/16 x 1/4-inch flare	5.40
	AC Oil Filter	PF454	4.19
	AC spark plugs (8)	R45TS	18.32
	PCV Valve	PCV1214	2.49
	Petcock for Radiator	J9038	3.39
	Hose Clamps and Misc stuff	N/A	10.97
	Upper Radiator Hose	7718	21.99
	Lower Radiator Hose	7286	15.77
US Radiator	High efficiency 4 core radiator	010790SNNZ	516.00
Energy Suspension	Motor Mounts	3.1114G	91.90
Sanderson	Shorty Headers	CC14	395.00
	Header Reducers	Straight Reducers	25.00
	Copper Collector gaskets	Copper Gaskets	25.00
Flowmaster	U-Fit kit	15935	262.56
	40 series muffler (2)	42441	160.44
	Installation	N/A	250.00
Driveshaft work	Shortening, yoke, and u-joints	N/A	233.82
Kugel Komponents	Shift Arm Kit (long)	6020701	44.95
Total:			$9,189.66

SOURCES
Trans-Dapt Performance Products 12438 Putnam Street Whittier CA 90602 562-921-0404 www.tdperformance.com	Gearstar Performance Transmissions 132 N. Howard St. Akron OH 44308 800-633-2353 www.gearstar.net
US Radiator 4423 District Blvd. Vernon CA 90058 323-826-0965 http://www.usradiator.com/	Energy Suspension 1131 Via Callejon San Clemente CA 92673 949-361-3935 www.energysuspension.com
Lokar 10924 Murdock Drive Knoxville TN 37932 877-469-7440 www.lokar.com	GM Performance Parts P.O. Box 33170 Detroit MI 48232 800-577-6888 www.gmperformanceparts.com
ARP (Automotive Racing Products) 1863 Eastman Avenue Ventura CA 93003 800-826-3045 www.arp-bolts.com	Chevy 2 Only PO BOX 985 Mt. Washington KY 40071 800-239-8487 http://www.chevy2only.com
Summit Racing 800-230-3030 http://www.summitracing.com	Kugel Komponents La Habra CA 562-691-7006 www.kugelkomponents.com
Sanderson Headers N/A (800) 669-2430