Chevy LT1 Engine Build - LT1 2-Go...Almost

The AFR heads slid perfectly over the ARP studs...

...and a little drop of oil was squirted on the threads prior to torquing the 12-point nuts to specs.

Another part we needed to install was the valvetrain gear. These Crane hydraulic roller lifters share the popular anti-rotating system that most mechanical rollers have; a horizontal tie bar connects a pair and allows the roller to keep in proper contact with the lobe face.

Crane hardened chrome-moly pushrods complete the connection between camshaft and valve operation. Note the cavernous intake ports on the AFR heads.

ARP didn't have a kit designed specifically for the late-model LT1, since it requires a different assortment of fasteners than a conventional small-block. However, after we measured what was needed for the waterpump, timing cover, and distributor assembly, the kind folks at ARP assembled a package of stainless steel 12-point bolts that worked perfectly. We'd bet they'll probably soon add an LT1 kit to their product line.

This is the factory crankshaft position sensor. It fits snuggly into a hole in the bottom of the aluminum timing cover, and is held in place with a clamp and bolt. We tapped the metric-threaded hole and installed a cool ARP 12-point bolt.

Another area that received an upgrade was the rocker arms. Legendary Crane aluminum needle-bearing roller-tip extrusions are precision-built and bulletproof. We think they look way cool, as well!

This sensor ring fits over a key in the crank snout behind the timing cover. It has four lobes that represent windows to the accompanying crankshaft position sensor, which tells the car's factory computer when to fire the distributor. Since our engine will be using a complete new computer management system from Speed Pro, this won't be used. However, in the event that we may need to switch back, it was installed.

Prior to installing the various components at the front of the engine, we "dressed" the Fel Pro timing cover gasket with some sealer and put it in place.

As mentioned earlier, the LT1's ignition comes from a front-mounted distributor, which connects to the end of the camshaft via a longer dowel pin. (The first versions coupled directly with a splined shaft, until mid-'95 models came with the longer dowel.) Despite having a history of problems (most of which can be cured by making sure no moisture enters the distributor housing), the Opti-spark system does a good job of getting fire to the plugs (similar, in fact, to an aftermarket crank-triggered system). GM Performance Parts supplied us with a new unit, as well as the waterpump, timing cover, the miscellaneous sensors, and wiring connectors.

This connecting collar slips over the splined shaft protruding from the top of the timing cover and connects to a similar one sticking out of the back of the waterpump. This is how the LT1's reverse cooling waterpump is driven. No belts to lose here.

With reverse cooling the water is directed from the radiator to the cylinder heads before entering the block. This is how the LT1 can withstand having a higher compression ratio without detonating itself to death. This is the water inlet on top of the pump. Note the small valve on top, used to bleed the cooling system of steam pockets.