Doing things yourself when it comes to engine assembly can be very rewarding. We're not saying there's anything wrong with having someone else do the work, just that when you do it yourself, there's a bonus feeling of accomplishment and pride.
If you're a rookie when it comes to engine mechanics and assembly, having a shop put together your short-block is one of the smartest things you can do. Assembling bare cylinder heads yourself and setting them up for your particular engine has several advantages, however. One, you can hand pick the parts such as valve-springs, retainers, valves, rocker studs, etc., to best suit what you're building the engine for. Flat tappet and roller cams require drastically different valvesprings, the same as hydraulic versus mechanical/solid lifter cams. If you're going racing, you might want to lighten the valvetrain with titanium valves, beehive springs, titanium retainers, etc. Regardless of your application, starting with a bare head gives you many options.
To show how easy assembling heads for a street-oriented application is, we called our buddies at RHS for a set of their Pro Action small-block 23-degree bare cylinder heads, PN 12053. This is a great street head with a lot of room for performance and porting/modifications if you so desire, retailing for about $633.00, fitting into most budgets. Don't be alarmed though, the steps we're going to show will work with any small-block head, iron or aluminum. So, follow along as we give you a crash course in bare head assembly.
| Part |
Part No. |
Price |
| RHS Pro Action 23-deg. Head |
12053 |
$633 |
| RHS Cylinder Head Assembly Kit |
12987 |
$165 |
| Comp Valvetrain Organizer Tray |
5327 |
$37.95 |
| Comp Valvespring Compressor |
5337 |
$99.95 |
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The starting point for our head assembly is an RHS small-block Pro Action 23-degree cylind
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1 To keep things organized, we numbered each cylinder/combustion chamber.
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2 We also marked the head to keep the correct orientation as we moved things around.
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3 To make things easy for the DIY’er, RHS sells complete head assembly kits with everythi
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4 Once we unwrapped the kit, we used this handy valvetrain organizer tray from Comp (PN 5
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5 To make sure we keep all the valves matched correctly to the cylinders we lapped them t
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6 Usually valve grinding/lapping compound comes in one grit. To lessen the abrasiveness,
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7 A small line of compound is run across the back side of the valve where it meets the va
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8 To lap valves you'l need a tool like this one, available at most parts stores for under
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9 Lapping valves is an old technique that helps match a valve to its corresponding seat f
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10a When assembling heads, it's always good to measure the valve guide OD and check it ag
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10b If the seals don't fit tight enough, they'll come loose from the guide after a few he
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11 With aluminum heads, valvespring seat inserts are a must. Without them, the spring (an
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12 Next up are the positive Viton valve stem seals. Positive refers to the spring lock ar
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13 Before installing the rocker arm studs, the threads should be coated with a non-harden
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14 After setting the pushrod guideplates in place, the studs are hand threaded in, then t
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15a Next up, installing the valvesprings. Using an old school
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15b It uses the rocker studs as an anchor point, and compresses both springs on the cylin
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16a With the valvesprings compressed, we placed the Comp machined 10-degree valve locks i
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16b If necessary when setting up the rocker arms to get proper valvetrain geometry. A las
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17 Here's how it'll look when done. This wasn't difficult at all, and will ensure that ea
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Comp Cams
3406 Democrat Road
Memphis
TN
38118
800-999-0853
www.compcams.com
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Snap-On
877-762-7664
www.snapon.com
|
RHS
3416 Democrat Road
Memphis
TN
38118
877-776-4323
www.racingheadservice.com
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