The upper triangulated control arms anchor in the rear to the 12-bolt housing. The rubber bushings are pressed into the housing and can be a real pain to remove. We ended up using a big hammer and even an air chisel to get them out.The upper triangulated control arms anchor in the rear to the 12-bolt housing. The rubber It's pretty easy to see here how much stronger the new upper arm is compared to the stamped steel stocker. Another benefit is that it's adjustable, so we can fine-tune the pinion angle and better align the rearend.It's pretty easy to see here how much stronger the new upper arm is compared to the stampe We lubed up the new bushing and tapped it into the housing until it bottomed out. We then installed the new upper control arm. To make sure we were in the ballpark, we set the length the same as the stocker that was removed.We lubed up the new bushing and tapped it into the housing until it bottomed out. We then Here's the rear caliper mounting bracket from CPP. It includes shims of various sizes to help get the caliper properly lined up with the rotor.Here's the rear caliper mounting bracket from CPP. It includes shims of various sizes to h Before the axles could go back in we needed to install the new caliper bracket. As you can see we had to reverse one of the T-bolts due to interference with the axle tube suspension brackets.Before the axles could go back in we needed to install the new caliper bracket. As you can We then slid the axle back in place, installed the new 12-inch rotor, and attached the single-piston caliper.We then slid the axle back in place, installed the new 12-inch rotor, and attached the sin Like the upper the arm, the lower trailing arm is much stronger than the stamped factory version and has urethane bushings in lieu of the rubber version. The new tubular CPP arms also incorporate sway bar mounts.Like the upper the arm, the lower trailing arm is much stronger than the stamped factory v Here's the new rear drop-height spring next to the original one. Take note that the top of the new spring differs from the OEM version. This meant that we couldn't reuse the original isolator, so we wrapped the big end of the spring with a section of hose.Here's the new rear drop-height spring next to the original one. Take note that the top of And here's the spring in place using the lower factory isolator, and the one we fashioned out of hose on the top.And here's the spring in place using the lower factory isolator, and the one we fashioned It's hard to believe that this svelte QA1 shock replaces the behemoth air shock we removed. Like the front, it offers simultaneous compression and rebound adjustments with the 12-position knob. They feature QA1's deflective disc valving and are 100 percent dyno tested.It's hard to believe that this svelte QA1 shock replaces the behemoth air shock we removed The new QA1 shock bolted in place just like the old air shock did. The adjustment knob will make fine-tuning the shock a snap. With the shock in place, we ran all the new rubber and hard brake lines CPP included in the kit and put the rear cover back on the 12-bolt with the gasket also included in the kit.The new QA1 shock bolted in place just like the old air shock did. The adjustment knob wil Having a rear sway bar should really pay off big in the handling department. The new 1-inch solid bar is a huge step up considering our Elky didn't have one to begin with.Having a rear sway bar should really pay off big in the handling department. The new 1-inc « | 1 | 2 | 3 | » | View Full Article By Steven Rupp Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!
