Chevy Nova Suspension - Hotchkis Nova TVS Upgrade Kit

Here's the '70 Nova with stock suspension and skinny front drag tires.Not so hot for the rigors of an autocross, or even our slalom testing.

Here's the '70 Nova with stock suspension and skinny front drag tires.Not so hot for the r

For years automotive aftermarket companies have been engineeringperformance suspension kits for classic cars, and they show no signs ofslowing down any time soon. Most of the musclecar focus has been on themost popular models, such as first- and second-gen Camaros, Chevelles,Tri-Fives ('55-57 Chevys), and Mustangs. And it's no secret thesecompanies are making some serious bank--and rightfully so. The quality ofavailable product and technical advancements provide us with better thanstock suspension components in terms of functionality, performance,safety, and looks. It's a big win for the parts makers and the consumer.

Now that the most popular models of the classic car genre have productdeveloped for them, we're beginning to see some of the slightly lessdesirable models get their day in the sun within the aftermarket world.

After a Hotchkis suspension makeover and a set of Hoosier A6 Autocrosstires, the Nova has a whole new attitude and a gorilla grip on theslalom course. (photo Steven Rupp)

After a Hotchkis suspension makeover and a set of Hoosier A6 Autocrosstires, the Nova has

Take, for example, '68-74 Novas--get 'em while you can. These arebecoming rare, and some consider them to be the last affordablemusclecar. In today's market a first-gen Camaro, especially '69s, andmost any Chevelle will take your wallet for a major hit, so a '68-74Nova might be the way to go if you want to get into some vintageAmerican muscle at a reasonable price. Recently, we've seen a number ofaftermarket companies introduce restoration and upgrade parts for this"classic." Suspension companies are getting in the groove, and HotchkisSport Suspension is right in the mix developing new high-performancesuspension upgrade packages.

John Hotchkis of Hotchkis Performance (www.hotchkis.net) recently introduced us to a fairly typical'72 Nova purchased by a young, ambitious high schooler who took hisdaily driver, added some performance upgrades, and did some weekend dragracing. The car has a few bolt-on mods like headers, intake manifold,carburetor, and some dated slapper bars. This thing was the absolutedefinition of old school.

1972 Chevy Nova Hotchkis Suspension Installation

The Hotchkis Nova TVS suspension upgrade kit (PN 80013, $1,257.00)consists of 2-inch lowering front coil springs, front and rear sway bars(all hardware, dogbones, and end links included), 2-inch drop rear leafsprings, tie rod sleeves, and all necessary mounting hardware and springpads. As an upgrade to the TVS kit, we also included upper A-arms (PN1107, $739.00) and lower A-arms (PN 1109, $900.00), as well as theHotchkis/Bilstein shocks ($97.00 each).

The Hotchkis Nova TVS suspension upgrade kit (PN 80013, $1,257.00)consists of 2-inch lower

Now that the owner has outgrown his drag phase and his driving palatehas somewhat matured, he wanted to take his quarter-miler and buildsomething with a little more functionality--a great street driver orweekend cruiser that could give new sports cars trouble on the twistybits of PCH if he so desired. That's more his style.

We here at Nova magazine are always up for some track day fun, so wetook the mainly stock "hot rod" out for some before and after tracktesting. We figured it would be a great way to show the performancedifference between a Nova with a stock, used-up suspension like the onemany of you readers drive and bolt on some quality engineered suspensioncomponents from Hotchkis Sport Suspension.

When building a car with performance suspension components, you'll stillwant the vehicle to be street-worthy. Oftentimes car guys tend tooverlook the driveability aspect of a suspension upgrade package. Sure,you can build a car that kicks ass at the track, but you'll want thatsame suspension to be accommodating in everyday driving situations aswell. That's where spring rates, suspension geometry, alignmentspecifications, and shock valving are so important. The pros at Hotchkistake pride in their performance suspension packages being both tracksteady and street ready.

It's important to keep the suspension tight with fresh, qualityreplacement parts. Therefore, we've also included the new Hotchkis tierods, pitman arm, and idler arm. No part numbers were available on thesebrand-new items at press time, but info should be available by the timeyou read this. Check www.hotchkis.net for availability.

It's important to keep the suspension tight with fresh, qualityreplacement parts. Therefor

For this suspension upgrade, we started with the Hotchkis TVS (Total Vehicle System) for '68-74 Novas. Thekit includes front and rear hollow sway bars (all hardware and dogboneend links included), 2-inch lowering front sport coil springs, 2-inchdrop rear sport leaf springs, tie rod sleeves, and all the necessarymounting hardware and spring pads. Since this car was going for thefull-tilt suspension upgrade, we added in upper and lower A-arms, tierods, steering, pitman arms, Hotchkis/Bilstein shocks, and Hotchkissubframe connectors for good measure. We also converted the car from theoriginal show-reacting manual steering to power steering with a steeringbox and accessories from Flaming River.

At The Track

Baseline Test

Our "before" and "after" suspension testing consists of slalom, skidpad,and braking. For slalom testing we use a 420-foot course consisting ofcones set 70 feet apart. Average speed is measured with timers placed atthe beginning and end of the course. The skidpad measures lateralg-forces by way of a 200-foot-diameter circle. Total time taken tocomplete the skidpad circumference is measured, and a mathematicalformula indicates the average lateral g-force capabilities of the car.

As you would guess, the classic Nova, sporting thirty-year-old stock suspension components, and tires designed for straight-line racing didn't fare very well in the "before" testing.

First bit of business is to remove the tie rod by loosening up thecastle nut on the spindle. Don't be afraid to bang it loose. After 35years, a little persuasion may be necessary to get the tie rod separatedfrom the steering arm.

First bit of business is to remove the tie rod by loosening up thecastle nut on the spindl

I took the Nova through the slalom course a number of times in an effortto get keyed in on the response (or lack of) and handlingcharacteristics of the tired suspension. After about 10 or so passes, Iwas able to get the car to navigate the course in a best time of 7.35seconds. That translates to 39.2 mph. Not ground breaking by any means,but a good baseline number for comparison testing. We'll give the car alittle break and take into consideration it's got some "skinnies" upfront--definitely not a huge help in this situation.

On the skidpad, we take the counterclockwise and the clockwise times,add them together, and divide by two. This gives us the average time thecar took to make its way around the circle. Due to the weight of thedriver and other considerations, times vary depending on the directionthe car is traveling. With the car whipping around the course in anaverage time of 13.13 seconds, the measured lateral g-force came to .71g's. Again, not lighting up the course, but nevertheless we have ourbaseline numbers of what a basically stock '72 Nova will do underperformance driving situations.

After Test

Once the suspension upgrades were performed on our freshened-up '72Nova, we again hit the track and performed the same exercises at thesame location under similar conditions as with the stock suspensioncomponents.

With the shock removed, it was time to pull out the cotter pin and beginto remove the ball joint on the lower A-arm.

With the shock removed, it was time to pull out the cotter pin and beginto remove the ball

The rejuvenated Nova, now upgraded with the Hotchkis performance suspension goodies and super grippyHoosier A6 autocross tires (treadwear rating of 40), literally camealive on the slalom and skidpad course with newfound vigor andaggression.

The first thing I noticed when getting into the car with the suspensionupgrades and track-purpose tires was the insane attitude the car hadacquired. The car revealed an instant improvement over the stockcomponents. After a few warm-up runs to get reacquainted with the car, Iwas able to drive aggressively and managed to make a best pass of 5.72seconds in the 420-foot slalom course. That translates to an averagespeed of 50.6 mph!

On the skidpad the car managed an 11.47-second run. That numbertranslates to .94 g's--a vast improvement over the stock suspensioncomponents.

The car's new and improved track behavior made it a blast to drive in atest situation, but I was anxious to see how the car would feel on cityroads. So I took it out on the street to check the comfort level in aneveryday driving situation. I was pleasantly surprised how thesuspension felt while on the surrounding roads. The ride was nicer thanI had expected, and I would have no problem taking this car out for along drive.

When you remove the spring, be sure to use a spring compressor or afloor jack to get it out safely. You don't want a compressed spring toinadvertently come flying out of the lower A-arm pocket, as it couldcause some damage to the car or you if you're standing in the wrongplace.

When you remove the spring, be sure to use a spring compressor or afloor jack to get it ou

Front End Suspension Upgrades

Front end upgrades are quite possibly the most important aspect toimproved handling, especially in a classic car. By using the HotchkisTVS Nova kit, the ride height is brought down due to the 2-inch loweringsprings. This gives the car a lower center of gravity for increasedcornering response. The 1 5/8-inch sway bar also plays an important roleby reducing body roll and improving cornering. The Hotchkis tubularupper and lower A-arms offer superior strength over stock increasinghandling and control. Smooth operation and free articulation is achievedwith Delrin bushings, and the properly tuned Hotchkis/Bilstein HPS 100shocks offer optimum performance.

Rear Suspension Upgrades

The sport leaf springs offer increased handling and performance, and the2 inch lower ride height ensures better handling than stock springs.Incorporating the rear sway bar reduces body roll and increases rollstiffness, also adding to cornering capabilities.

Subframe Connectors

Subframe connectors do just what they suggest--connect the front subframeto the rear. This conjoined effort reduces chassis flex during corneringand acceleration, and makes the front and rear suspension componentswork together for better quality and performance.

Sources:

Hotchkis Sport Suspension
888.735.6425
www.hotchkis.net

Flaming River
800.648.8022
www.flamingriver.com

Foose Wheels
800.493.7891
www.mhtwheels.com

Hoosier Tires
888.353.5082
www.tirerack.com

MSD Ignition
915.857.5200
www.msdignition.com

Next up, Corey removes the lower A-arm. Two bolts, and out.
The Hotchkis lower tubular A-arms come with an aluminum shim foradditional ride height adjustability between a quarter to a half inch.We didn't use the shim, as this car has no A/C and relies on small-blockpower. The weight of a big-block may require a little more height,putting the shim to good use.
The Hotchkis lower tubular A-arms come with an aluminum shim foradditional ride height adj
The kit also comes with polyurethane rotating spring pockets for properand easy spring placement. A very useful feature, especially when a cutspring is used. If not properly fitted, a cut spring will make unwantednoise and won't function properly.
The kit also comes with polyurethane rotating spring pockets for properand easy spring pla

Although the new Hotchkis sway bar won't be bolted in just yet, Coreygets it into the "ready" position.
Although the new Hotchkis sway bar won't be bolted in just yet, Coreygets it into the "rea
With the supplied polyurethane bushings, you'll need to applynon-lithium grease (special silicone based lube is included in the kit).This will ensure the sway bar functions to its full potential and keepsthe ride quiet--even under high-stress situations. As a footnote, don'tuse standard grease, as over time it will dry out the bushings.
With the supplied polyurethane bushings, you'll need to applynon-lithium grease (special s
The Hotchkis 1 1/8-inch sway bar easily bolts into the stock location ofthe factory piece.

The lower tubular A-arms utilize Delrin bushings for smooth performance.They get the same treatment with the non-lithium grease.
The lower tubular A-arms utilize Delrin bushings for smooth performance.They get the same
Next up, Corey slides in the lower A-arms. They come with ball jointsand polyurethane bumpstops preinstalled and ready to go. As an addedbenefit of the Delrin bushings, the A-arms can be tightened down whilethe car is in the air. Unlike stock A-arms with rubber bushings, there'sno need to wait until the car is under its own weight at ride height.
Next up, Corey slides in the lower A-arms. They come with ball jointsand polyurethane bump
As mentioned earlier, Cory chose to put in the bottom spring pocketwithout the aluminum shim, as the front of our Nova is relatively light.Corey's experience tells him the stance will be just what we're lookingfor.
As mentioned earlier, Cory chose to put in the bottom spring pocketwithout the aluminum sh

Next up, the 2-inch lowering springs went in. Having the car's rideheight lower to the ground provides better handling and steeringresponse. The precision-wound springs will give the car a firm, but notharsh ride. Also, the car will take on a more aggressive stance. Therotating spring pockets make clocking the springs much easier thanstock--another time saver.
Next up, the 2-inch lowering springs went in. Having the car's rideheight lower to the gro
Next, Corey removed the stock upper A-arms. If you were doing a brakejob, you would remove upper and lower A-arms at the same time.
Next, Corey removed the stock upper A-arms. If you were doing a brakejob, you would remove
The Hotchkis upper A-arms come with a billet 4130 cross-shaft thatallows more negative camber, and the offset bolt insets provide morepositive caster without having to stack unattractive shims. Just likethe lower A-arms, the uppers are also equipped with Delrin bushings forsmooth, responsive driveability.
The Hotchkis upper A-arms come with a billet 4130 cross-shaft thatallows more negative cam

With new Hotchkis tubular A-arms bolted in place, the Hotchkis/Bilsteingas shocks were next to be installed. These are built to Hotchkis' specsfor this application and spring rate.
With new Hotchkis tubular A-arms bolted in place, the Hotchkis/Bilsteingas shocks were nex
With the upper and lower A-arms installed, it was time to remove thepitman arm.
You may have to use a wedge and some persuasion to get the pitman armremoved from the steering box.
You may have to use a wedge and some persuasion to get the pitman armremoved from the stee

Once removed, Cory was able to disassemble the entire steering linkage,including the idler arm, pitman arm, and tie rods from the centerlink.
Once removed, Cory was able to disassemble the entire steering linkage,including the idler
Be sure to put in the Zerk fittings before the installing the new tierods.
Then install the new Hotchkis supplied pitman arm onto the steering box.

Next is the idler arm assembly.
Then the centerlink is bolted back up to the idler arm and pitman arms.
Before installing the new Hotchkis tie rods, be sure to use anticease onthe threads. When you put the them together, be sure to have an equalamount of thread showing on each side. This will provide equal strengthand simplify final adjustment.
Before installing the new Hotchkis tie rods, be sure to use anticease onthe threads. When

The new tie rod then bolts up to the centerlink and spindle.
With the car dropped, it was time to bolt in the sway bar end links.
With the front all tidied up, it looks pretty fresh. This upgrade willsupply the Nova with a whole new attitude in looks and driveability.
With the front all tidied up, it looks pretty fresh. This upgrade willsupply the Nova with

As a little tip: Before you begin to remove old suspension pieces, it'sa good idea to use penetrating oil on all the old nuts and bolts, asmost of these have not moved in over 35 years.
As a little tip: Before you begin to remove old suspension pieces, it'sa good idea to use
First bit of order on the rear is to loosen the U-bolts from the springperch.
Now it was time to simply unbolt the leaf springs, starting with thefront spring mount and moving to the rear shackles. Don't be afraid touse a pry bar to separate the shackles from the spring.
Now it was time to simply unbolt the leaf springs, starting with thefront spring mount and

It's important to clean out the rear shackle mount hole of any oldrubber left inside from the stock bushing. The new Hotchkis polyurethanebushings fit very precise, so there can be no leftover debris.Rough-grit sandpaper and some elbow grease will get the job done.
It's important to clean out the rear shackle mount hole of any oldrubber left inside from
With the mount holes cleaned up, the bushings can be installed. Payclose attention to the instructions here, as there are two differentpart numbers for the upper and lower bushings. Corey uses a large set ofchannel locks to press them in. Be sure to use the supplied lube, asthese are also Delrin bushings.
With the mount holes cleaned up, the bushings can be installed. Payclose attention to the
The bushing sleeve slides in next. Again, be sure to use plenty of thesupplied lube here too.
The bushing sleeve slides in next. Again, be sure to use plenty of thesupplied lube here t

Cory then whips out the channel locks to install the correct bushing onthe leaf spring.
Loosely install the top of the shackle, as you'll need the flexibilityto get the spring in.
Loosely install the top of the shackle, as you'll need the flexibilityto get the spring in
Next, Cory installs the front spring mount to the spring. Remember, thispiece is not included in the kit, so you'll need to remove it from theold springs. Don't tighten them down all the way until it's in the car.
Next, Cory installs the front spring mount to the spring. Remember, thispiece is not inclu

The front and rear of the springs now easily bolt right in to the stocklocations. As a tip, be sure to keep the bolts on the outside away fromthe gas tank...
The front and rear of the springs now easily bolt right in to the stocklocations. As a tip
...It will give you more clearance when tightening them down.Cory also mentions not to fully tighten down the bolts until the car islowered off the jacks and under its own weight.
...It will give you more clearance when tightening them down.Cory also mentions not to ful
Because the Hotchkis stainless steel U-bolts are lager in diameter thanstock, you'll have to bore out the holes on the leaf perch and shockmount with a 5/8-inch drill bit.
Because the Hotchkis stainless steel U-bolts are lager in diameter thanstock, you'll have

With the shock mounts bored out, they were ready to be installed. Besure the pads are correctly aligned with the center pin. Another tip: Besure to leave the U-bolts loose so you can get the shock mount insidethe wheel. Otherwise the outer area of the wheel or tire will get in theway.
With the shock mounts bored out, they were ready to be installed. Besure the pads are corr
With the Hotchkis/Bilstein shocks mounted, the rear suspension upgradekit was ready to go. This setup also lowers the car in the rear about 2inches. But that all depends on the condition of the stock leaf springs.If they were plenty worn, the car was already lower than stock. Whenordering your shocks, be sure to check to see if you have stud or clevisshock mounts.
With the Hotchkis/Bilstein shocks mounted, the rear suspension upgradekit was ready to go.
It was then on to the Hotchkis 7/8-inch rear sway bar. Just pry open theurethane bushing mounts and install as shown. Exact location isn'timportant at this time.
It was then on to the Hotchkis 7/8-inch rear sway bar. Just pry open theurethane bushing m

Corey loosely attaches the sway bar and U-bolts over the axlehousing.Remember to use some anticease on the U-bolt threads and lube up thebushings with the supplied lube.
Corey loosely attaches the sway bar and U-bolts over the axlehousing.Remember to use some
Before bolting on the dogbone, be sure to lube it up, too.
Center the sway bar by using the rear end housing and the framerails asa guide, then mark a spot where the mount will go through the back seatarea. With the back seat removed, drill through using a 1/2-inch drillbit for the mounting holes, then tighten down the mounts with thesupplied hardware.
Center the sway bar by using the rear end housing and the framerails asa guide, then mark

The Hotchkis rear sway bar is ready for action.
Hotchkis '68-74 Nova subframe connectors (PN 4009 $396.00) are made outof mild steel and are 1 1/2x2 1/2 with .120-inch wall for superiorquality and strength. They're powdercoated gloss black for anattractive, long-lasting appearance and come with polyurethane subframebushings and hardware. No need to cut the floors with this setup, asthey bolt right into the front subframe and slide over the rearframerails and can be easily welded into place.
Hotchkis '68-74 Nova subframe connectors (PN 4009 $396.00) are made outof mild steel and a
First bit of work for the subframe connectors is to loosen the stockbushings on the front clip.
First bit of work for the subframe connectors is to loosen the stockbushings on the front

Corey uses a pry bar in order to remove the old bushing.
The front of the new Hotchkis subframe connector and new bushings boltright into the stock location.
The front of the new Hotchkis subframe connector and new bushings boltright into the stock
The rear of the subframe connectors simply slip over the rear of theframerail. There are four predrilled holes, making it easy to weld theconnector into place. Corey then went on and welded a nice, even beadaround the connector.
The rear of the subframe connectors simply slip over the rear of theframerail. There are f

With the new Hotchkis subframe connector welded in the rear, Corey thenuses a 1/2-inch bit to drill the mounting holes in the stock clip inorder to bolt up the front of the subframe connector.
With the new Hotchkis subframe connector welded in the rear, Corey thenuses a 1/2-inch bit
You could weld the front in if you wanted to, but with the Hotchkissubframe connectors, you can use them again if you changed the frontclip.
You could weld the front in if you wanted to, but with the Hotchkissubframe connectors, yo
Here's the subframe connector all bolted in, welded up, and ready foraction. With the subframe following the contours of the floors, groundclearance is not an issue, plus it looks clean and stealthy.
Here's the subframe connector all bolted in, welded up, and ready foraction. With the subf

SOURCES
Hotchkis Sport Suspension www.hotchkis.net	Hoosier Tires
Flaming River 800 Poertner Dr. Berea OH 44017 N/A 4-40/-826-4488 www.flaming-river.com	MSD Ignition El Paso TX 9-15/-857-5200 msdignition.com
Foose Wheels