At this point, Paul had removed the original column and slid the Flaming River unit into place. The new column came with a snazzy billet mount, which would have left us with a gap in the Nova's dash. Paul instead ground off the factory column-locating tab in the upper bracket, then drilled a small hole in the new column, and put a screw through the lower bracket to keep the column in place.At this point, Paul had removed the original column and slid the Flaming River unit into p Long story short, Paul installed the steering U-joints and cut the steering shaft to the proper length, making sure the shaft didn't interfere with the U-joints' movement. We don't have space to show you here, but the shaft was drilled with locating holes for the U-joint setscrews, and we put Loctite on them to boot. The shaft is close to the Nova's headers; we'll show you what we did about that later.Long story short, Paul installed the steering U-joints and cut the steering shaft to the p The tilt and signal levers were then installed, followed by the wheel adapter, and finally the wheel and horn button (not shown).The tilt and signal levers were then installed, followed by the wheel adapter, and finally To wire the new column into the Nova's electrical system, the factory half-moon connector must be cut off and new female wire ends crimped on. Each color wire has a designated slot in the provided flat plug end, which mates to the steering column's male plug.To wire the new column into the Nova's electrical system, the factory half-moon connector Our column concerns dealt with, we turned to the brakes. Heidt's supplied a 12-inch Big Brake kit, featuring Wilwood Dynalite components that include three-piece, slotted and drilled rotors, featherweight four-piston calipers, and an exquisite aluminum master cylinder.Our column concerns dealt with, we turned to the brakes. Heidt's supplied a 12-inch Big Br The caliper-mounting bracket was bolted up . . . . . . followed by the rotor installation. As you can see, we've already assembled the rotors, including the inner bearing and grease seal. The discs are directional, and marked appropriately. New 13/16-inch fine-thread spindlenuts are provided.. . . followed by the rotor installation. As you can see, we've already assembled the roto With the calipers bolted in place, we've got great-looking brakes that should stop us on a dime and make change. But first, we need brake lines. These must be ordered after the brakes are installed and measurements are made.With the calipers bolted in place, we've got great-looking brakes that should stop us on a From the "Do as we say, not as we do" department, be sure to install the wheel studs in the hub, which is drilled for traditional 5x4 3/4 GM configuration.From the "Do as we say, not as we do" department, be sure to install the wheel studs in th The master cylinder Wilwood sent us is a work of art. Paul had to finagle the stock pedal assembly a bit to make it work, cutting about 3/4 inch off the actuator rod, then adjusting it to contact the piston. The Wilwood piece comes with a small piston "extension" insert, which we used to get the right combination.The master cylinder Wilwood sent us is a work of art. Paul had to finagle the stock pedal At this point, JCP's Andy Henry took over. The Wilwood master uses one chamber for front braking and one for rear. The back brakes utilize a proportioning valve, which we'll show you next time; the fronts run directly off the master cylinder. Andy ran a hardline down to the framerail.At this point, JCP's Andy Henry took over. The Wilwood master uses one chamber for front b At the framerail, Andy ran the hardline into a "T" fitting. Our 14-inch flex line then ran to the left front brake (arrow), while a second hardline feeds the right-hand brake.At the framerail, Andy ran the hardline into a "T" fitting. Our 14-inch flex line then « | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | » | View Full Article Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!
