Ergonomics is all the rage these days, especially in the automotive arts. Having the various controls we use to interface with our classic Chevys in just the right spot really adds to the overall driving experience, just like having them in the wrong spot, for lack of a better term, sucks. The steering wheel is how we become "one" with our cars and having it positioned correctly makes a huge difference, not just in performance driving, but even cruising around town.
This whole concept is really nothing new. Back in the day, General Motors offered tilt columns as an option for those that didn't mind shelling out a couple of bucks for added driving comfort. Today, you would be hard-pressed to find a car that doesn't have a tilt column standard.
The main player in this process...
The main player in this process is this 33-inch tilt column from Flaming River (PN FR30001, $549). It has a factory-style ignition switch and includes two keys. Best of all, it's designed to be a plug-and-play deal in terms of the wiring. All of Flaming River's columns are comprised of new components, not remanufactured parts.
Adding a tilt column to a non-tilt car isn't rocket science, but there is one problem-availability. Twenty years ago, you could just hit up a salvage yard and find a good OEM unit. Over the years, the carcasses have been picked clean and it has become increasingly harder, and more expensive, to find factory tilt columns.
Also, given that many of the ones out there are over or nearing 40 years old, they are typically suffering from the ravages of age.
Unless you're building a concourse restoration, there's a better way: the aftermarket. Companies like Flaming River are making retrofit tilt columns for our cars, and the best part is that they are brand new and made from modern components. This lets you upgrade your ride without searching boneyards or dealing with a factory column and all of its worn out components.
 We also picked up this slip...  We also picked up this slip shaft double-D (DD) kit (PN FR1856, $115.21) from Flaming River. This will let us attach the new column to the steering gear box. We will also be ditching the factory rag joint and going to the stainless U-joints included in the Flaming River kit. The shaft has about 3 inches of travel to help eliminate binding caused by chassis flex. |  Here's the factory arrangement....  Here's the factory arrangement. The OEM shaft is connected to the gearbox by way of a coupler, also known as a rag joint. |  After disconnecting the rag...  After disconnecting the rag joint and unbolting the broken column from the firewall and the dash, we were able to remove it from the Camaro. Our second-gen had a tilt column, but it was broken and no longer held any position besides fully tilted up. Not exactly the most ergonomic position for driving. |
 As you can see, the old column...  As you can see, the old column was removed in one piece. On second-gen Camaros, the plate that seals the firewall area around the column is attached to the column. Once the new column is in place you will either need to remove this from the factory column and adapt it to the new column or fabricate a new one from some sheetmetal. We opted for the latter. |  We then attached this adaptor...  We then attached this adaptor plate from Flaming River (PN FR20300, $39). This will make everything line up perfectly for our Camaro application. Flaming River calls it a stramp clamp and it includes a rubber mount for vibration absorption. |  To the Flaming River adaptor...  To the Flaming River adaptor plate we then attached the factory bracket taken from our original steering column. This is the only part reused from the OE column. |
 With that done, we were able...  With that done, we were able to slide the new steering column through the firewall and bolt it under the dash. We then simply plugged the factory wiring loom into the plug on the steering column. We wish all wiring jobs were this easy. |  With the steering column in...  With the steering column in place, we installed the U-joint on the end of the column and measured to the steering box. Remember, measure twice, cut once. |  We then transferred that measurement...  We then transferred that measurement to our collapsible Flaming River shaft. Remember that you don't want the shaft all the way collapsed or all the way apart, but rather somewhere in the middle of its range. |
 To make the cut, we used a...  To make the cut, we used a diamond blade in our chop saw. Whatever you use, try to make sure the cut is as close to 90-degrees as possible to lessen the chance of it binding in your universal joint. We made the cut about 1 inch long so that we could fine tune the length with the part in the car. |  With the shaft attached to...  With the shaft attached to the new steering column we could then precisely determine our final cut. With the mark made, we revisited the chop saw. |  Now, it was time for us to...  Now, it was time for us to test fit the U-joint on the end towards the steering box. We tightened down the set screw hard enough so that it made a mark in the shaft. We repeated this procedure on the column side as well. |
 Using the marks left by the...  Using the marks left by the set screws, we then used a drill to dimple the shaft ends. This will ensure the set screws stay in place where they are supposed to. After all, having your steering come apart on the highway would fall way into the "bad" category. |  Here, you can see the lower...  Here, you can see the lower U-joint installed. On the end nearest the steering box, we locked the set screw in place with the supplied jamb nut, however,, for clearance reasons we had to shorten the set screw securing the U-joint to the collapsible shaft. This meant we couldn't use a jamb nut there so, instead we applied a generous dab of blue Loctite. On the upper U-joint we were able to use jamb nuts on all the set screws. |  This is our finished shaft...  This is our finished shaft assembly. Make sure you let Flaming River know what type steering box you have when ordering your system since they use different splined shafts. Our last step underhood was to hook up a grease gun to the zirc fitting on the new shaft and lube it up. |
 Back inside the car, we installed...  Back inside the car, we installed our functional, yet good looking, turn signal and tilt levers (PN FR20112AL, $39). We also bolted in place the tapered billet adaptor hub from Flaming River (PN FR20119TA, $99.50). The adaptor hub allows for the use of any five- or six-bolt steering wheel. |  In our case, we opted for...  In our case, we opted for Flaming River's Nova Deluxe leather steering wheel (PN FR20127DX, $279.95 at Summit Racing). The three spoke design is 13.4 inches in diameter and has an almost OEM look to it. |  Lastly, we popped on the leather...  Lastly, we popped on the leather wrapped steering wheel cover and tested the horn. If you need a horn kit, Flaming River offers one, but we were able to make what we had work. Now if we can just get the rest of the interior looking as good as the steering wheel we'll be set. |