The rear suspension kit converts the multi-leaf spring setup of yesteryear into a four-link utilizing a 100 percent bolt-in assembly. It consists of a bolt-in top crossmember, four-link bars, Panhard bar, and adjustable coilover shocks for the absolute best in performance. Heidts allows you to package your suspension components any way you wish to meet your needs. Let's say you want to utilize your 12-bolt or 9-inch from another project; you can order your kit to match. Other options include polished stainless four-links, chrome coilover, and axle housings empty or full with the gear ratio of your choice. Great concept. Up front, the performance continues with Heidts Pro-G bolt-in front subframe, complete with tubular control arms, power rack-and-pinion steering, 2-inch drop spindles, and enough options to make your head spin. Our install used polished stainless steel control arms, chrome steering rack, 13-inch Wilwood slotted brakes, and polished coilovers. The best part of the Heidts front suspension is the ease of installation. With the nose off the car and radiator support out of the way, the four body mount bolts are all that holds everything together. A floor jack, two jack stands, and help from a buddy gets you up on your feet and running. To get us started, we placed the provided body mount bushing on the new subframe and with a little help, positioned it into place. We could have assembled the entire front suspension including control arms, spindles, brakes, and steering rack, and then installed it as a unit, but this method provided us with a stable platform to work on. To get us started, we placed the provided body mount bushing on the new subframe and with With the coilover ready to rock, we bolted it up with the base sitting on the lower control arm, and the top mounted to the subframe itself, much like the shocks are mounted in a stock configuration. Then we were able to get the spindle locked into place via castle nuts and locking pins. With the coilover ready to rock, we bolted it up with the base sitting on the lower contro We greased the spindle, lubed the bearings, and slid on the entire Wilwood 13-inch brake assembly. The rotors are slotted and cross-drilled to allow heat to escape and ensure minimal to zero brake fade on the road course. Once on, the castle nut and locking pin install next, followed by the Wilwood hubcap. The four-piston caliper and brake pads mount using the supplied bracket. We had to use a small shim on both bolts to center the caliber between the brake pads. We greased the spindle, lubed the bearings, and slid on the entire Wilwood 13-inch brake a Last but not least, for the front suspension we installed the sway bar and power steering rack. Installation of the two of these was pretty straight forward as they both mount up to predrilled holes. The 1.25-inch sway bar attaches to the bottom control arms and prevents body roll upon turning by increasing the total roll stiffness of the front end. Last but not least, for the front suspension we installed the sway bar and power steering Check out the finished product up front. The guys at Route 66 install these front suspensions pretty often. We had the front clip off the car and the front suspension installed in a 12-hour day. What can I say? Time flies when you are having fun. Check out the finished product up front. The guys at Route 66 install these front suspensi The brakes come unassembled, but the directions make assembly of the rotor and hub a piece of cake. A few things to be careful of when bolting these together: the bolts mating the rotor assembly and wheel studs must be torqued as per the specifications, and then wire tied to ensure they do not come undone. The brakes come unassembled, but the directions make assembly of the rotor and hub a piece « | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | » | View Full Article By Mike Ficacci Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!