Before Ever notice how the topic of road handling rarely seems to crop up when people start talking about their musclecars? Most older street machines do real well as long as they're going in a straight line. Get into the corners however, and a lot of these cars simply give up; some of them even become downright dangerous. Very few cars from the late-'60s and early-'70s exhibited any kind of ability to tackle corners without excessive body roll, mostly due to the lack of attention paid to the car's underpinnings. After Well, the GM A-Body experts at Original Parts Group have come up with a solution. They have designed a suspension setup exclusively for '64-72 Chevelles and early Monte Carlos that includes front and rear springs, special shocks, beefed-up front and rear sway bars, and boxing plates for the rear lower control arms. Part of the overall design of this suspension package is to slightly lower the entire car, giving it a better center of gravity. The springs we used in this install will lower the entire vehicle by approximately 2 inches. For those who desire an even more dramatic stance, OPG also stocks 3-inch lowering springs. When you're done, you'll have one mean-looking road machine with greatly improved road manners. It's important that you start with good, solid suspension parts to begin with. Make sure the upper and lower ball joints are in decent shape, as well as your tie rod ends and centerlink. If not, this is a good time to rebuild the suspension like we did. Take the necessary precautions while working under any vehicle. We'd like to thank Mario Romero, the owner of Top Line Performance for taking the time to show us, step-by-step, how to tackle the job. Parts List:Frontend rebuild kit: POLY90Centerlink: DS749Front 2-inch lowering springs: C990098Front KYB Gas-A-Just shock absorbers: C980101Front lower shock mount kit: DESAK16Front sway bar 1 1/8-inch: ADDC883Front sway bar bushings: POLY148Frontend link bushings: POLY153Rear KYB Gas-A-Just shock absorbers: C980102Rear 2-inch lowering springs: C990102Rear springs insulators: PZ95875Rear sway bar 1-inch: ADDC939 Note: some part numbers will vary depending on application. For your specific application, please contact Original Parts Group. The suspension rejuvenation started with the removal of the spindles and brake assemblies. Be sure to use a spring compressor or wrap a chain through the coil to prevent it from flying out once the spindle is ready to be removed. The suspension rejuvenation started with the removal of the spindles and brake assemblies. The control arms were removed and rebuilt with new bushings, ball joints and upper cross-shafts. With the control arms tightened securely in a vise, Mario uses his air hammer to "rattle" loose the ancient bushings. A good machine shop or frontend shop should be able to remove and replace these bushings. The control arms were removed and rebuilt with new bushings, ball joints and upper cross-s A new centerlink and tie rods from Moog were installed to take some sloop out of the steering. Be sure to replace the felt washers on the ends of the centerlink. A new centerlink and tie rods from Moog were installed to take some sloop out of the steer To take full advantage of the Chevelle's new underpinnings we replaced the original 7/8-inch sway bar with OPG's 1 1/8-inch bar. Use caution when installing the bushing retaining clamps to the frame as these threads will strip easily. The frontend was finished up with a new set of 15-inch rally wheels and beefy 235/60 meats. After the car is back on the ground, don't forget to fully tighten those upper control arm bushings. To take full advantage of the Chevelle's new underpinnings we replaced the original 7/8-in We moved onto the back. The first step was to box the lower trailing arms. These steel inserts slip into the arms and will be welded in shortly. The boxed arm not only maximizes the rigidity of the arm itself but also prevents the steel sides from pinching together when the new sway bar is installed. We moved onto the back. The first step was to box the lower trailing arms. These steel ins Next, we drilled the mounting holes through the sides of the control arm and through the "loops" in the steel inserts. The bolts were inserted through the control arms and attach with supplied nuts. Next, we drilled the mounting holes through the sides of the control arm and through the " The steel inserts were ready to weld in now. A wire brush was used to clean up the rough edges and clean the trailing arms to prep for welding. If you don't have your own welding equipment, your local shop should be able to do this for you at a minimal cost. The steel inserts were ready to weld in now. A wire brush was used to clean up the rough e The rear shocks were removed and the housing lowered to allow the coils to be removed. New spring insulators were secured to the top of the new shorter variable-rate OPG coils. The springs were then installed making sure the ends of the coils fit around the spring pockets. We finished the job by bolting in a new set of KYB shocks. The rear shocks were removed and the housing lowered to allow the coils to be removed. New SOURCES Original Parts Group Incorporated 17892 Gothard St Huntington Beach CA 92647 Top Line Performance 7312 Auto Park Dr Huntington Beach CA 92648 By Colin Date Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!