12 The tube is test-fit into place. It's a perfect, zero gap, fit. 13 After triple checking all the measurements, the tube is tacked, then fully welded. Tim fully welds the tubes as he goes, so that the cage won't move around as he puts each new tube in.13 After triple checking all the measurements, the tube is tacked, then fully welded. Tim 14 Now that the main hoop and the rear shock brace are installed, it's time to fit the brace tubes in between them. Pete drills holes in the package tray that are lined up with the framerails.14 Now that the main hoop and the rear shock brace are installed, it's time to fit the br 15 Since the tube goes through at an angle, the hole has to be oval. The cut is to allow the sheetmetal to move around without warping as the tube is pushed through it.15 Since the tube goes through at an angle, the hole has to be oval. The cut is to allow 16 The rear braces need a slight bend to make it from the main hoop to the shock brace. The bend is right at the package tray, and when it's all welded up, the loss in strength from bending the tube is minimized.16 The rear braces need a slight bend to make it from the main hoop to the shock brace. T 17 Pete notches the tube with an odd combination of tools: a DRO mill and a Milwaukee hole saw. They've tried all the tubing notchers throughout the years, and have found that this simple setup works best.17 Pete notches the tube with an odd combination of tools: a DRO mill and a Milwaukee hol 18 Back braces are in, and the harness bar is ready for welding. I wanted a removable harness bar, but Tim didn't like the idea. Now I understand why: The subframe and upper linkage bracket tubes are braced against the harness bar. Putting in a clevis and pins to make the harness bar removable would have compromised the strength of these tubes.18 Back braces are in, and the harness bar is ready for welding. I wanted a removable har 19 Note the cut line on the sheet metal. In order to weld the upper bracket tube in the right place, this portion of the floor has to be cut out.19 Note the cut line on the sheet metal. In order to weld the upper bracket tube in the r 20 With the floor cut done, the upper linkage bracket is clearly visible. 21 This is a close-up view of an angle notched tube, ready for welding. 22 The subframe brace is welded into place ... 23 ... followed quickly by the linkage bracket brace. Both are welded to the bottom of the harness bar for maximum chassis stiffness.23 ... followed quickly by the linkage bracket brace. Both are welded to the bottom of th 24 With all the tubes behind the main hoop fitted and fully welded, it's time to tackle the most difficult tubes in the cage: the side tubes. Denny takes some measurements to figure out the overall length of the tube.24 With all the tubes behind the main hoop fitted and fully welded, it's time to tackle t 25 Here is the side tube mocked into place. Tim slowly bent the tube a bit at a time, along with trimming it to fit. He kept careful notes about lengths and angles so he could reproduce its mirror on the other side. Look carefully at how the tube bends down as it gets to the main hoop. Tim does that to increase the weld area for strength and also to provide access so he can fully weld it. That's something you won't see in a pre-bent kit.25 Here is the side tube mocked into place. Tim slowly bent the tube a bit at a time, alo 26 Another look from in front of the A-pillar. Careful measurements and mastery of the tube bender make this kind of fit possible.26 Another look from in front of the A-pillar. Careful measurements and mastery of the tu 27 After the side tubes are done, the brow bar (top of windshield), sill bar (just above rocker panel), and door bar are fitted and welded.27 After the side tubes are done, the brow bar (top of windshield), sill bar (just above 28 Another closeup of the beautiful welding evident throughout the cage. 29 With the cabin finished, CCD moves on to the front J-tubes. First thing is to drill holes in the firewall in the right spot and then work from there.29 With the cabin finished, CCD moves on to the front J-tubes. First thing is to drill ho 30 Tim and Denny fit up both tubes, then Tim does his TIG thing again. 31 You can see the route of the J-tubes from above. Like the side tubes, Tim and Denny bent the tube in increments until they got a perfect fit.31 You can see the route of the J-tubes from above. Like the side tubes, Tim and Denny be 32 Tim put in this plate from just behind the door hinge mount to the side tube. We'll do something similar to the inner quarter panel area near the door latch and the main hoop. It really stiffens the cowl and will help keep all the doors aligned a lot better, especially when we run 1,400 hp through it!32 Tim put in this plate from just behind the door hinge mount to the side tube. We'll do « | 1 | 2 | 3 | View Full Article By John Parsons Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!
