The caliper/pad assembly followed. Installation of the caliper is completed using two bolts from the backside. Shims are provided in case the rotor does not align with the center of the caliper. Luckily, we did not need any shims and were ready to start working on the brake lines.
Up front, we made all lines as our connections on the calipers were in different locations, as were the connections on the new booster. Steve Ficacci of Hillcrest Exxon made quick work of the brake lines going to the calipers and mounted them out of the way using a factory bracket.
Like the front, the rear brake kit provides us with versatility to use a small-diameter wheel. It comes with 11-inch rotors, calipers, brackets, emergency brake provisions, and flexible brake tubing. Relatively easy to install, this is definitely a good project for the may-chanics among us to tackle on a free weekend. With a set of jack stands and some patience, you'll be drum free in no time.
The installation begins by removing the old drum brake assembly and pumpkin cover as you will need access to the C-clips to remove the axles. This is necessary to remove as our caliper bracket mounts to axle flange.
Our bracket gets installed using all new hardware and will sit the bracket towards the rea
Next, we popped the 11-inch rotor in place and secured it from falling by screwing on a lu
Next, the caliper is set into place and is held by two four-inch bolts running through the
As was the case up front, make sure there in no binding while evenly tightening both the top and bottom caliper bolts. Once completed, check that the rotor is centered between the brake pads and is not rubbing on either of them.
We then tackled the flexible connections running from the calipers to the braking system. Take your time when installing these as you need to ensure a good connection between the line and caliper so it won't leak. Welding a bracket to the rear end housing provided a simple mounting location on the rear.