1967 Chevy Malibu Brake Kit - Super Chevy Magazine

The stone-stock stance on this '67 Malibu sits on 15-inch wheels and stock spindles. With the Master Power Brake kit installed, including the 2-inch dropped spindles from Superior Spindles (available with the kit), and new American Torque Thrust 16-inch wheels and tires, the stance is just what we wanted: slightly lower in front.

The stone-stock stance on this '67 Malibu sits on 15-inch wheels and stock spindles. With

There's a reason that Chevrolet's popular midsize musclecar-the Chevelle-is referred to as the "Heavy Chevy." It's not because of its lack of nimbleness or agility, mind you, but more accurately because of its girth. The truth is, despite being one of the most desired and fastest boulevard bruisers, the A-body, with its full frame, is a handful to haul down from speed. The stock four-wheel drum brake setup is a joke, and leaves a lot to be desired in the "whoa" department.

If you're in the market to upgrade the brake system on your Chevelle or Malibu, the folks at Master Power Brakes have a number of different kits to fit those models built from '64-72. And even though the '67 Malibu featured in this story may not be the same model you have, the brake system is basically the same, and will also fit your car.

Master Power Brakes, which has been in business since the early '60s manufacturing and remanufacturing brake components for the aftermarket, began building high-performance brake upgrade kits in 1983, and currently has a 50-page catalog loaded with disc brake systems for classic Chevys, plus a large selection of individual components such as master cylinders and power boosters.

If you've ever done a brake job on your car, you should have the skill level and tools needed for this job. It's a relatively simple remove-and-replace procedure.

The Master Power Brake kit used in this story (PN DB1741PD) features dropped spindles, and virtually every nut and bolt you'll need to install it on your A-body (even new brake hoses are included). Complete instructions and an installation video are also part of the package.

The Master Power Brake kit used in this story (PN DB1741PD) features dropped spindles, and

The A-body kit features a 101/2-inch disc package with 2-inch dropped (Superior) spindles, or an 11- or 12-inch disc brake package with standard GM spindles. The kits also include all-new components such as rotors, spindles, calipers with pads, caliper brackets, master cylinder/booster, combination valve, brake hoses, bearings, seals, dust caps, hardware, and printed instructions, with a video! Everything comes in one shot, with nothing else to get.

Our donor '67 Malibu just didn't stop as good as its owner wanted, so we did a little test that you can do at home on any of your cars. As you'll notice in the last photo, we put a bathroom scale between our brake foot and the pedal to see just what kind of leg effort it really took to stop the car. Before we installed the new system, we took the car to a big parking lot, instead of the highway, just to be safe. There, we took the car up to 30 mph and did a few quick stops (no skidding involved), with the scale in position. The stock, non-power, four-wheel drum brake system took about 60 to 70 pounds of leg pressure to come to a stop. After the front-disc system and new dual-chamber master cylinder with a 9-inch single-diaphragm booster was installed, we repeated the parking lot test. This time it only required 10 to 15 pounds of leg pressure to slow the beast down. To say it was an incredible improvement is an understatement.

To see how easy the installation was, we photographed the complete job being done. Follow along as we improved the safety factor of this classic '67 Chevelle, and learn how you could easily do the same thing at home in as little as one weekend.

The first step is to get the car at a comfortable working height and take the new parts inventory. Be sure to use jackstands for safety. Our '67 Malibu drum system looks like most any other A-body drum-brake system.
The first step is to get the car at a comfortable working height and take the new parts in
With the spring compressor correctly installed through the center of the coil spring and tightened to allow the spring's pressure to relax between the A-arms, the upper unit can be separated from the spindle, followed by the lower one.
With the spring compressor correctly installed through the center of the coil spring and t
Next, remove the coil spring. (Rent a spring compressor and be sure to understand how it works.) First loosen the nut, but be sure not to remove it! Then, tap the spindle around the lower ball joint with a large ball-peen hammer to loosen it and install the spring compressor through the hole in the bottom of the A-arm. Get help if you're not sure how to do this!
Next, remove the coil spring. (Rent a spring compressor and be sure to understand how it

If in doubt, now's the time to replace the ball joints. The upper unbolts and the bottom is pressed, so you'll need to remove the lower A-arms (two bolts). It will cost around $100 for all four ball joints.
If in doubt, now's the time to replace the ball joints. The upper unbolts and the bottom i
It's a good idea to leave the spring compressor on the last spring removed. This version is rather awkward and we don't recommend using this style unless you can't find a different one.
It's a good idea to leave the spring compressor on the last spring removed. This version i
Here's a spring compressor that's easier to use, since it hooks on the bottom and the top coils, and tightens the coil straight. It's also small enough to pass through the hole in the bottom of the lower A-arm with no problem.
Here's a spring compressor that's easier to use, since it hooks on the bottom and the top

A standard bearing press will install the lower ball joint for you. The lower joints are about $30 each.
A standard bearing press will install the lower ball joint for you. The lower joints are a
Reposition the compressed spring and install the new spindle. Comparing this Superior dropped spindle-which came in the kit-with the stock spindle reveals that the snout has been moved up higher. You'll have total suspension travel even though your car sits lower!
Reposition the compressed spring and install the new spindle. Comparing this Superior drop
No, Master Power Brakes doesn't provide grease for the bearings. You'll have to roll up your sleeves and get real dirty for this job! Both inner and outer units need high-temp disc-brake wheel bearing grease.
No, Master Power Brakes doesn't provide grease for the bearings. You'll have to roll up yo

You're almost done. With the caliper and pads installed and the spring compressor removed, the shock can be positioned through the lower A-arm hole and into the coil spring and tightened down. The brake hose is next.
You're almost done. With the caliper and pads installed and the spring compressor removed,
Be sure to inspect the position of the brake hose by turning the spindle from side to side. You don't want the hose between the coils when you are driving!
Be sure to inspect the position of the brake hose by turning the spindle from side to side
With the banjo fitting tightened at the caliper end, twist the other end of the hose until it curls away from the coil spring. Repeat turning the spindle back-and-forth to be sure.
With the banjo fitting tightened at the caliper end, twist the other end of the hose until

Now you can attack the firewall-mounted master cylinder. Notice that the electric wiper motor is directly above the master cylinder. The booster comes with an offset bracket to clear it.
Now you can attack the firewall-mounted master cylinder. Notice that the electric wiper mo
Yes, you will be doing the upside-down boogie to move the pushrod to the lower hole in the brake pedal arm. A hole needs to be drilled in the pedal arm; then it can go back in place.
Yes, you will be doing the upside-down boogie to move the pushrod to the lower hole in the
Again, follow the instructions and bench-bleed the master cylinder using the clamp and bleeder hosed provided in the kit. Pour DOT 4 brake fluid (3 is ok if 4 is not available) in each chamber of the master cylinder until half full. A screwdriver can be used to push the plunger. Push the plunger in and out until the air bubbles are eliminated.
Again, follow the instructions and bench-bleed the master cylinder using the clamp and ble

While assembling the master cylinder to the booster, you'll also have to install this booster bracket (included in the brake kit). It angles the booster away from the firewall to clear the wiper motor.
While assembling the master cylinder to the booster, you'll also have to install this boos
For clarity, we assembled the components. Here, you can see how the combination valve connects to the master cylinder. For a cleaner look we also rotated the booster so the check valve is on the bottom. Vacuum should be plumbed from the intake manifold.
For clarity, we assembled the components. Here, you can see how the combination valve conn
To insure correct plumbing, different size fittings are used in the combination valve. Pre-formed lines are provided to attach the combination valve to the master cylinder.
To insure correct plumbing, different size fittings are used in the combination valve. Pre

Where you live may determine how you bleed the brakes. We used the Phoenix Injector System to remove the air from the system. It can remove air either by suction or pressure. The system is convenient since only one person is needed to perform the operation. Be sure to start bleeding at the right rear wheel.
Where you live may determine how you bleed the brakes. We used the Phoenix Injector System
Once you've completed bleeding the front brakes (which should be done last), start the engine and push on the pedal. If the brake pedal feels spongy, bleed the brakes again. A length of clear plastic hose works great to see the air bubbles coming out of the system.
Once you've completed bleeding the front brakes (which should be done last), start the eng