Tri-Five Chassis - Framing A Classic, Part 5

We routed it down and across...        read full caption We routed it down and across the crossmember, using a couple of clamps to hold it in place.	In addition to routing brake...        read full caption In addition to routing brake lines, we rebuilt the rear drum brakes on the 10-bolt using a kit from Performance Suspension Technology.	The complete rebuild kit included...        read full caption The complete rebuild kit included everything from wheel cylinders to Metalli-Grip metallic linings.
When everything else was in...        read full caption When everything else was in order, we lifted the wheels and tires in place and screwed on the lug nuts.	After popping on the new hubcaps,...        read full caption After popping on the new hubcaps, we took a step back to admire the finished product. The Coker radials and Wheel Vintiques wheels definitely add a distinctive touch, finishing off our rolling chassis in fine style.

Bending Lines
Bending and routing hard brake lines may seem like an easy task, but making it all look nice and tidy is an acquired skill that takes plenty of patience. The job is certainly easier when you don't have obstacles like an engine, transmission, or body panels to work around, which is one of the reasons we chose to do it now. (Of course, without the engine or body in place, it can be difficult to know if you're going to run into clearance problems later on.) Armed with a simple Snap-On tubing bender, a flaring tool, and our bare hands, we were able to get the job done and route the lines in a reasonably attractive fashion, but it did take more time than we anticipated. The following is a brief synopsis of the tools and techniques we used to form and flare the tubing.

This Snap-On tubing bender...        read full caption This Snap-On tubing bender allowed us to make uniform, kink-free bends. But for many of the simpler bends, we found it just as easy to carefully shape the stainless lines with our fingers.	We ordered the tubing long,...        read full caption We ordered the tubing long, so once we shaped it we had to cut it to length and flare the ends. A tubing cutter will work, but we found that a simple cut-off wheel left us with a nice, flat end to work with.	After cutting a tube, it's...        read full caption After cutting a tube, it's important to debur the metal (both inside and out) with a file. We also made sure to blow compressed air through the tubing to clear out any leftover shavings.
Brake lines require a double...        read full caption Brake lines require a double 45-degree flare, which we made with this flaring tool (we just had to remember to slip the fitting in place before creating the flare). Stainless steel can be tough to flare, and we had a little trouble with the tubing wanting to slip through the flare bar. It helps if you can clamp the bar in a narrow vise.	The finished flares looked...        read full caption The finished flares looked something like this, and the lines were ready for installation.