 We started by mounting the...  We started by mounting the proportioning valve. We mounted it to the steering box using this bracket from Williams Classic Chassis. Mounting the valve on the steering box will keep it low and relatively out of sight in the engine compartment. |  Moving to the rearend, we...  Moving to the rearend, we installed the brass junction block (it mounts to a tab on the rearend housing)... |  ...and routed the rubber brake...  ...and routed the rubber brake hose from it to the frame rail. The rearend tab and frame bracket had both been relocated to the left side of the chassis earlier in the buildup. |
 We began bending lines (see...  We began bending lines (see sidebar for details) with an easy length-the one linking the junction block to the left wheel cylinder. |  Next we ran the right rear...  Next we ran the right rear line up and over the differential to the right wheel cylinder. |  We installed several of the...  We installed several of the Kugel line clamps to hold the main rear brake line in place as we routed it up the frame rail. Mounting the clamps was a simple matter of drilling a 5/32-inch hole... |
 ...tapping it with a #21 ...  ...tapping it with a #21 tap... |  ...and securing the clamp...  ...and securing the clamp with one of the supplied button-head screws. |  We routed the line parallel...  We routed the line parallel to the bottom of the frame, making just a few bends to clear one body mount and the emergency brake cable bracket. |
 Up front, we snaked the line...  Up front, we snaked the line up the frame rail and around the steering box to the proportioning valve. |  As you can see, the left front...  As you can see, the left front brake line was by far the easiest one to bend. |  The right front line took...  The right front line took a little more effort. |