Raising the subframe does create a couple issues, though, which need to be addressed. The first is the engine and blower are pushed 1 inch closer to the hood, and our engine package with the massive Kenne Bell 3.6-liter blower is pretty tall. Second, the transmission tunnel has to be raised to make room for the T56 transmission. Moving the engine has some great benefits, and in our case was a necessity because of our tall engine package and compressed subframe to body relationship. If this were a naturally aspirated LS engine with no blower on top, we could have moved the engine back a couple inches and tucked the engine transmission package under the hood easily, even if we compressed the subframe and body by using no bushings. For us, we wanted to move the engine a lot anyway for the weight balance effect. But we also have to say that cars can still handle wonderfully without changing the weight balance. We do not want anyone to feel they have to move the engine to get a great handling car. Remember, we are being Unfair! The above paragraph is a disclaimer of sorts because the firewall and tunnel modifications are by far the biggest scratch fabrication projects we will do on Project Unfair Advantage. There are no reproduction replacement parts for what we are doing. So we simplified the process so someone else could do this possibly at home, or at least trim labor hours at your shop building your car. A $40 wheelbarrow from our local hardware store saved dozens of hours trying to form a recess for the engine which is moved 5.5 inches under the firewall. In our case, we have to also notch the upper firewall for blower clearance. Our supercharger now is going to be even with the edge of the cowl filler between the windshield and hood. Follow along, and next month we will put our super-trick Art Morrison suspension in. I promise you have never seen anything like it. Calculating The Effect Of Moving The Engine Moving the engine back is an old trick for hot rodders. On our front engine/rear drive muscle cars, moving the engine back solves several problems (but creates new ones-see below). On Project Unfair, we not only had to move the engine back, but down as well. The massive Kenne Bell supercharger sits high on top of the engine and we want to keep our hood to a 2-inch cowl. No 4- or 6-inch cowl hoods for us, thank you. We are going to need to widen the wheelbarrow a bit to get the clearance we want, but we will still be way ahead of the game starting with something that is already shaped. We are going to need to widen the wheelbarrow a bit to get the clearance we want, but we w The wheelbarrow is made of 20-gauge sheetmetal, which is perfect for this kind of work and plenty strong, especially in compound shapes. We choose the deep rounded front of the wheelbarrow and cut the nose off to fit the bottom of the cowl. We needed additional width, so to widen it a bit we welded in a 5-inch filler strip on the flat section in the middle. The wheelbarrow is made of 20-gauge sheetmetal, which is perfect for this kind of work and Before we could even install the transmission for mock up, we needed to figure out how much we would need to raise the tunnel and where to cut it. We had the car and the transmission both level, and used a level to measure at the same distance and find the difference in height. Before we could even install the transmission for mock up, we needed to figure out how muc Using the centerline of the top bellhousing bolt in the car, it is 6.5 inches to the tunnel, and it is 5 inches to the transmission. Difference plus 1 inch for general clearance means we have to raise the tunnel 2.5 inches. Using the centerline of the top bellhousing bolt in the car, it is 6.5 inches to the tunne Plasma cutters are so cool! A cutoff wheel would work just fine also. Even though we are modifying the tunnel, we are still way ahead of the game using the stock floor. Plasma cutters are so cool! A cutoff wheel would work just fine also. Even though we are m Setting the driveline angle, our base angle is 2 degrees down. Two degrees is ideal, but anything zero to 4 degrees is acceptable. This should point the transmission at the rear pinion yoke. This will give us some wiggle room if we decide to move the combo one way or the other. Setting the driveline angle, our base angle is 2 degrees down. Two degrees is ideal, but a « | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | » | View Full Article By Frank Serafine Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!