1970 Chevelle Reassembly - Ding, Scratch, Ouch: Goodmark Chevelle Project Car, Part 11

Hardware kits, like this one from AMK Products, are invaluable when reassembling a car. There are usually a number of pieces found in these kits that won't be found at your local hardware store or automotive supply house. A kit like this will bring your frustration level down a notch for sure.

Though there are many ways to install the splash shields into the inner fenderwells, we wanted to do it the original way for the Project Chevelle. The only problem with the original way was that we couldn't find a stapler big enough to puncture sheetmetal. Figuring out that this was completely insane, Metal Finish showed us, yet again, another way to have the same results without having to send everything to General Motors for installation.

After taping the shield onto the fenderwell in the correct place, Craig was able to drill small enough holes to accept the staples. This allowed us to achieve the desired look.

After the two holes are drilled, the staple should drop through the shield and inner fender.

On the reverse side, a set of standard pliers and needle-nose pliers were used for bending over one prong at a time.

After both prongs are bent down, a small hammer can be used to perfectly complete the factory staple look. These inner fenderwells look, and should last, just like the originals.

Everything fits great with new hardware and sheetmetal (Any type of adjusting or fitting should be done before paint is applied. Ideally, you want to put the body together once before painting to be assured the car will go back together perfectly). Once the other side is mounted, we can move onto mounting the fenders.

Before mounting the fender, Craig uses masking tape to protect the freshly painted edges, but mostly to be able to see the gap more clearly. It's a good idea to lay towels on the cowl as well as any other painted surfaces that may come into unwanted contact with each other.

These are some of the different pieces of hardware that will be needed to successfully mount the fenders onto the car. You will want a variety of shims to allow for various gaps between the fender and body.

Here is a good shot of the fender spacers and why they are needed. Not everything from the factory fits perfectly (which is normal, by the way) and is why fender spacers are necessary to bring everything together for a consistent fit and finish.

A quick measurement diagonally and across between the fenders will tell us if everything is square and ready for the hood installation.

Next, we need to bolt on the hood hinges. The hinges are originals that have been sand-blasted and treated to a fresh coat of OEM paint.

In this shot, we can see Craig using the masking tape once again to help in adjusting a uniform gap between the hood and fender.

Even with six hands helping, installing the hood can be a slight struggle until hood bolts find their proper position. Once the hood is bolted to the hinges, aligning the hood may take a couple of tries to get it close. Adjustment, up and down, where the hood hinges bolt to the fenders will be needed.

Depending on your car's needs, you may have to use spacers (like in the front fenders) between the hood and hinges. In the Chevelle's case, the hinges had enough adjustment, up and down, to line up perfectly.