There are seemingly endless choices on the market when it comes to intake manifolds, and a decision here can make a huge difference when it comes to both power and the wallet. A smart choice on both fronts is Weiand's dual-plane Stealth. This manifold line has been newly redesigned using the latest in computational fluid dynamics to help deliver optimal flow for large-displacement motors like our stroker. Carrying PN 8150, its suggested retail is $150.
To secure our intake manifold, we got a set of intake bolts from ARP. This PN, 135-2001, retails for $28.01 and is actually designed for big-block Chevys. ARP recommended them, as they are somewhat longer than small-block versions and work with a greater variety of manifolds (some manifolds are thicker than others, you see). You'll just need to be careful, as some SBC pushrods can be contacted if the intake bolts are too long. Also pictured are a water pump bolt kit (PN 130-3202, $14.73), fuel pump bolt kit (PN 130-1602, $7.23), and alternator bracket bolt kit (PN 130-3302, $5.23)-the final item being one we actually haven't used to date.
After cleaning the head surfaces, we set our Powerhouse-included gaskets on the heads and apply RTV around the coolant jackets. In addition, we're using a bead of RTV along the front and rear edges of the block in lieu of any prone-to-squeeze-out gaskets. We also check and discover that two of our ARP intake bolts are indeed too long (they'll hit the number 4 and 5 exhaust pushrods), so we'll just substitute shorter bolts at these locations.
Our intake is laid in place and the bolts torqued to a final 25 lb-ft using the sequence and specs included in the manifold's instructions. The Stealth's dual-plane design is said to nearly match the horsepower of a single-plane manifold but with a much fatter torque curve-and after all, torque is what strokers are all about.
We're about ready to prime our oil system, but before doing so, we'll need to install the fuel pump. Our mechanical pump is a Holley PN 12-327-11, which is rated at 110 gph, does not require a regulator (it's internally pre-set), and retails for $95. Featuring heavy-duty construction designed for high rpm, its fuel body can be rotated to fit your plumbing needs, which a nice feature.
With all oil passages sealed off (take note of the temporary brass plug in the oil pressure sensor port at the top rear of the block), we can start dumping our SAE 30 break-in oil into the engine through the distributor hole. We also add some break-in concentrate, which is important for a flat-tappet cam. While the oil drips in, we take a moment to install our thermostat and water neck (also acquired locally) onto the front of our manifold, and also use Weiand's provided plug set to stop off all unneeded vacuum and coolant ports in the manifold.
Priming your oil system is fairly critical, as it prevents the possibility of oil starvation to any part of the engine during initial startup. A special tool is needed to turn the oil pump driveshaft (normally spun by a SBC's distributor, of course), and we sourced Powerhouse Products (COMP's tool division) for one of their PN POW101150 Oil Pump Primers. It goes for $22.95.
Powerhouse Products' priming tool is inserted into our distributor hole until it seats onto the oil pump driveshaft. A drill is used to spin the priming tool clockwise. Advice on "how much" to prime the engine differs, but this author feels it's best to run the primer all the way until you can see oil coming out of the top of every pushrod. You can see some beginning to pool beneath the valvesprings if you look closely here.