NHRA Chassis Certification - Performance Q & A

Kevin McClelland Feb 15, 2010 0 Comment(s)

Bleeding the brakes is very simple. Put the car up on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Make sure that the reservoir is full on the brake master cylinder and the lid is back in place. Have a helper depress the brake pedal and release it three times, holding pressure against the brakes at the end of the third stroke. First, open the passenger-side bleeder on the brake caliper. This should release some fluid and the pedal will drop to the floor. Before your helper releases the brake pedal, close the bleeder valve on the caliper. Now you can release the brake pedal. Do this cycle about three times and refill the brake master cylinder. You should find that at some point that you will have a burst of air come from the bleeder at the caliper. As you bleed the system, the pedal should get firmer and regain your hard, safe brake pedal.

Anytime you break the hydraulic system of the brakes, or a hydraulic clutch system, you must bleed the air out. Air compresses and gives you a very spongy pedal, and if there is enough air, the brakes will not work.

It's A Spring Thing
My '69 Camaro is about to get a 350 LT1. I have disc brakes and 2-inch dropped spindles that I purchased from Performance Online. The brakes consist of 13-inch rotors with dual-piston aluminum calipers. To round out the frontend package, I also have a set of Performance tubular A-arms. I intend to put QA1 single-adjustable shocks on it. What front springs do I use: stock or 2-inch drop? It will be used for street, and maybe an occasional dragstrip or autocross. Also, it will have A/C. Thanks for your help.
Scott Langston
Fort Wayne, IN

Which front springs you choose is completely dependent on what you wish to use your car for. You stated that you would like to drive it on the street, play on the dragstrip, and toy with autocross. All three of these disciplines take different types of springs and finding a happy medium can be a challenge.

What do you wish the ride height to be? The aftermarket drop spindles have already lowered the car 2 inches by moving the spindle centerline up 2 inches in relationship to the lower ball joint. If you also install 2-inch lowering springs, the car will be 4 inches lower than stock. The front subframe may find the pavement driving around on the street in normal driving. You need to answer this question first. Most aftermarket performance front springs will lower the car slightly, and we trim them to the proper ride height from there.

Springs are designed differently for handling versus the dragstrip. For handling you'd want to increase the spring rate of the spring to prevent body roll and load the outside tire for grip. In drag racing you aim to run the lowest spring rate possible that will support the weight of the car. A light spring-rate spring that is highly compressed will aid in the weight transfer to the rear tires on the launch. We would go for a street-handling performance spring. Check with Eaton Detroit Spring; we've used them several times to make springs for oddball applications. Eaton has the factory prints from all the domestic auto manufacturers in the muscle car years and could build you a big-block spring-rate Camaro spring that will give you a stock ride height, or build the spring at the ride height you wish based on your measurements. Give Eaton a call for more information and visit the website and bone up on Spring Tech 101. This is a very informative handbook to educate you on the finer points of spring design and selection.
Source: eatonsprings.com


Connect With Us

Get Latest News and Articles. Newsletter Sign Up

subscribe to the magazine

get digital get print