It’s pretty safe to say that wheels and tires can make or break the styling of a car. You can have a clapped-out rusty turd with a nice set of wheels and it will look pretty cool. On the opposite side, a bad set of rollers can make a fully restored and painted showpiece look less than spectacular.
There are two major factors to consider when choosing new rollers for your ride—style and fitment. Since style is such a personal preference, we can’t tell you what you might like. As for fitment, that is where we can offer some knowledge. Rims and tires, even on the cheap end, are still expensive. Trust us when we tell you ordering new wheels and tires, only to have them rub, hit, or flat out not fit is a bummer.
Now if your car is pretty much stock, then there will be ton of forums where you can do research and find a common fitment for your car. What if you have modified things, then what? Well, you best educate yourself on how to measure the car to find the right specs for your new rollers to come.
That is exactly what we plan to teach you here, since we had to go through the entire process to get the right rims for our ’56 Bel Air. We recently upgraded the suspension with Heidts components, including its independent rear suspension, narrowed tubular arms, and coilovers up front. All these new goodies moved things around enough that we are not confident in letting the Internet tell us what we need. We know we want an 18-inch diameter rim, so our Nitto tire selection is the best, but we didn’t know much more than that.
We contacted B-Forged, a brand of Billet Specialties, to ask what was needed when ordering a set of the company’s modular three-piece rims, and what we got back was a pretty extensive ordering form with all kinds of required measurements. Since this form covers just about every parameter necessary, we are going to show you how to find all these measurements with nothing more than a few squares, a tape measure, a couple of clamps, and a piece of string.
1. Here is the order form from the B-Forged division of Billet Specialties. It’s pretty extensive and once completed will give you and the wheel manufacturer a clear path to getting the right size and spacing on the car. No matter whom you are going to get rims from, it’s a good idea to have all this information before ordering to prevent a costly mistake.
2. Here are the simple tools we used to get all the measurements. It’s basically just a selection of squares, two rulers, a few clamps, a set of calipers, and a homemade plumb bob. Preparation is the key for accurate measurements. Make sure the vehicle is level and the suspension is at ride height before measuring. (Jacking up only one side and using the plumb-bob will change the measurement you are getting.)
3. The first measurement we need to get is mounting surface to first obstruction on the frame side. We clamped one of the rulers to the studs with it flat against the rotor. We positioned the ruler so it protrudes 9 inches from center to emulate one half of the 18-inch rim diameter. Then we clamped one more ruler to that end and rotated the rotor till it made contact with something. At this diameter, our first point of contact was the tie rod end, which was 51⁄2 inches.
4. The next thing to find was the distance from the mounting surface to the fender. To do this, we taped our string and washer combo to the fender. Then we used a square to find the distance...
5. …which came out to 63⁄4 inches.
6. Our digital calipers made measuring the hub diameter simple. We got 2.65 or 213⁄20, but the closest yet larger common fraction is 221⁄32 inches.
7. The square made quick work of finding the brake diameter, which is done by measuring from the top of the caliper to the center of the hub and then multiplying by 2. We have a measurement just shy of 71⁄2 inches.
8. To find how much the caliper protrudes past the mounting surface, we clamped one square, making sure it was flat on the surface of the caliper, and then used another to measure the distance as shown. This ended up being 9⁄16 inch. These last two measurements are crucial to getting proper caliper clearance so the inside of the rim doesn’t hit the caliper.
9. Now for the hub length. It was pretty simple: Just place the ruler and read it. Most hubs are much more shallow than the Wilwoods, but these are 23⁄4 inches. This measurement lets the wheel manufacturer know if the center cap will fit.
10. The last one in the front was fender height to center of the hub. Again, a large square made this pretty much cake and showed we have 133⁄4 inches. This tells us that with 9 inches of rim (half the diameter), we have room for 43⁄4 inches of tire sidewall. This will help us pick the correct tire od (not that we will need that much sidewall on this low-slung car).
11. The last thing you will want to provide your rim manufacturer is a brake system diagram if it’s available. Wilwood has these for all its systems, so all you need to do is go to the Wilwood site and search with your system’s part number. If you have factory brakes, then you probably won’t need something like this.
12. The rear follows the same procedure as the front. Ours is a bit different than most, as we have the Heidts independent rear end setup. It’s stock width, but because of the control arms and other stuff, we have more limitations than a straight axle. Here we see the first contact point with an 18-inch rim, which is a lower control arm pivot bolt. We found this bolt was 53⁄8 inches from the mounting surface. If we upsize the rear rims to a 20-inch diameter, then our first contact would be the actual framerail.
13. Mr. Makeshift Plumb Bob was used to find that we had 65⁄8 inches till we hit the rear fenderwell.
14. The rear hubs are a bit more standard but still different than a normal rear end since we have the CV shaft hardware protruding out. The main part of the hub was 13⁄16, while the CV shaft was 11⁄4 inches.
15. Fender height to center of hub was a bit less in the rear because the ’56 has low swept arches. We have 93⁄8 inches.
16. The last thing on the form is a current wheel and tire size. To find the backspacing of our current rims, we clamped two squares together and then used a third to measure our backspacing. Backspace is always measured from the mounting surface to the very back edge of the wheel. (This is what would come in contact first with any obstructions.)
17. With a stamped steel rim like our 17-inch Rallys, there are two possible starting points. Up on the rim edge like this…
18. …or down inside. We didn’t know which B-Forged wanted, so we measure both. We had 41⁄8 down in and 41⁄2 up on the edge. We suspect the 41⁄2 is the proper number, but it’s better to have all information so you don’t have to go back during the ordering process.
19. Another thing to consider when trying to find the current rim size is to see if it’s marked, and ours was—clearly stamped 17x8.0 on the fronts and 17x9.0 on the rears. If they didn’t have marks, we would have to measure the width by running a tape measure through one of the slots and measuring from bead to bead.
20. We sent our filled out order form to B-Forged, along with our request for an 18x8 with 4 inches of backspacing for the front and 18x10 with 51⁄4 inches out back. For the actual style of rim, we decided to go with the 450 three-piece forged wheel, which has a staggered set of spokes that, to us, is a modern take on the straight spoke rims of the gassers back in the day. Since it is a three-piece design, the finish options are just about endless, but we decided the car wanted a matte black center and rear band and chrome outer band and hardware.
21. The three-piece design of this rim allows for dang-near endless widths, backspacing, and caliper clearances. There are 25 rims in the B-Forged lineup right now that feature forged 6061-T6 billet aluminum centers, precision-spun aluminum rim halves, and racing-grade hardware. B-Forged wheels are exceptionally strong and lightweight. Modular three-piece construction offers shallow and deep concave profiles. We went with a shallow concave profile for the front and a deep concave profile for the rear for a nice staggered look.
22. Once the rims arrived, we followed the B-Forged instructions/warning label and test-fit the rims before we mounted up the tires.
23. In the front, we made sure to spin the rim and also turn the steering from lock to lock to make sure there were no clearance issues. Since we made so many measurements, these rims fit perfectly.
24. To make sure the car rides smooth and yet still has grip, we chose to run the Nitto NT555. We have used these tires for a few years in our Super Chevy Suspension & Handling Challenge, so we’re pretty familiar with them. The NT555 is a high-performance street tire designed with increased traction and handling capabilities. They have a large contact patch, which provides improved dry performance while cornering, braking and accelerating. One thing we really like about this line of tires is there are 44 different sizes from 235/45ZR17 to 295/25ZR22 and 15 different sizes in the 18-inch diameter. That allowed us to dial in the size perfectly. One more reason we chose these was the simple-looking tread design. We think this complements the car instead of being so busy that that’s all you can see.
25. In the front, we went with a 245/40ZR18, which has a 93⁄4- inch-wide tread face and a 251⁄2-inch diameter. These are spec’d to run on 8-inch-to-91⁄2-wide rims, so we are on the bottom of that parameter. That gives us the widest tread the rims will support and a little extra meat around the sidewall to protect our rims from hitting the curb if we park by braille.
26. To keep the 502’s horsepower in check, we strapped a set of 285/40ZR18s out back. These have an 111⁄2 inch-wide tread face and almost a 27-inch diameter. These are spec’d to run on 91⁄2-to-11-inch-wide rims, so we fell right in the middle of that range. These also have a nice little bit of balloon on the sidewall to protect the rims.
27. Here’s the payoff: The rims fit perfectly, they don’t rub, and the tires fill the wheelwell just right. The B-Forged rims are premium pieces that will stand up to the rigors of performance driving while looking sweet as pie. The black center and chrome band match the car’s paint and chrome scheme to a T. The Nitto 555s will provide good grip and lateral stability and should wear pretty well. We hope we have given you enough information that you feel confident in measuring your own car for your next rim and tire purchase. While you are doing that, we are going to take the ’56 on a nice trip along the coast.