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C3 Corvette Windows - A Clear Choice
Installing New Windows In Your C3 Can Greatly Improve The Driving Experience
Oct 14, 2010
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Mechanicsville, VA 23111
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C3 Corvette Windows - A Clear Choice
Kevin Mackay's stunning See-Thru Corvette creation shows the inner workings of the door-glass mechanism. Two bolts attach the lower side of the window to the horizontal sash.
The sad shape of this glass screams for replacement. The vertical scratches were caused by sand caught in the weatherstrip or anti-rattle plates, which can mar the glass when it moves up or down. The circular marks are from a sander that must have slipped during bodywork or a repaint. Raise the window to inspect how it fits to the weatherstrip at front, top, and rear.
Remove the door-panel attachment screws. The door pull has two hidden machine screws. Use a long No. 2 Phillips with a good tip and hold it squarely to the screw head-you don't want to strip the head on either of these. The remaining four attachment screws are located at the door panel's corners.
Remove the spring clip from the door-lock knob. Pry the door panel back for better access and then use a door-handle-removal tool or a small screwdriver to push the clip. Do the same for the window-crank handle, if so equipped. Remove the door handle.
Use a broad, flat tool to gently pry apart the door panel's five Velcro plastic snaps. Pop the lower metal clips out of the door. Lower the window and remove the door panel. Remove the plastic moisture barrier.
After removing the two small screws attaching the outer weatherstrip to the door, gently pry the snaps on the weatherstrip from the door.
Mark the position of the bolts on the upper attachments of the window channels, anti-rattle bumpers, and the other adjustment points for the window mechanism. Then loosen or remove the front and rear window-channel attachment bolts to provide more clearance for window removal.
The window upper stop is attached to the top of the front channel by a single bolt. Adjusting the stop determines how high the window will travel. Remove the upper stop and the front anti-rattle bumper.
New parts useful for door-panel removal or repair include the screw set and lower clips.
The lower clips commonly tear out a portion of the door panel. To fix this, slide a thin strip of metal in behind the torn sides.
After the metal is glued in place, the clip once again has something to attach to.
The Velcro blocks often separate from the backing, too. JB Weld will cement them back in place.
Door-panel inner seals eventually harden, crack, and fall apart due to UV exposure and age.
The inner seal was originally stapled to the door panel. A Set of No. 6 screws is an alternative to the staples. A dab of black paint can then hide the screws.
Raise the window to enable access to the two nuts that attach the sash to the window mechanism. The nut on the rear of the sash is easy to see. The nut on the front is accessed through a hole in the inner door panel.
Raise the window to enable access to the two nuts that attach the sash to the window mechanism. The nut on the rear of the sash is easy to see. The nut on the front is accessed through a hole in the Gently pry the window away from the sash until its bolts are free of the holes in the sash. Use a helper or a spring clamp to prevent one end of the window from falling while working on the other end.inner door panel.
Slide the window up and out of the door. Gentle prying may be needed to get the window's fasteners past the outer portion of the door.
Photograph or write down the location and direction of the components on the window before removing them. Protect the glass by placing it on a soft surface such as a carpet, towel, or the box the window came in.
Fortunately, many replacement parts are available for the windows. Zip Products offers a kit that includes mount bushings, glass bumper and cap, front roller, and roller/slider assembly. Also of interest are the rubber washers (three per window). A special tool is available for the round nut plates that secure the sash bolts to the glass.
Install the parts onto the new glass, ensuring that they go in the proper direction. Tighten the bolts and nuts snugly but cautiously; don't over-tighten. The sash-attachment bolts can't rattle loose when the nuts are installed on the sash.
While you're at it, consider removing, cleaning, and lubricating the window channels. The sash is easily removed. The channels require a little more effort, but it's worth it if the windows don't move up and down smoothly. Also, clean the inside of the door, especially the drains.
Another thing to consider replacing now is the main door weatherstrip. The new weatherstrip highlights how much the molded end has deteriorated from UV exposure. The ends on the front and rear have a rough life trying to seal the door against both the window and the body.
Install the new glass by installing the slider into the front channel and then guiding the bolts past the upper doorframe. Line up the bolts with the holes on the sash and install the nuts. The upper attachment of the front and rear channels enables the window to be adjusted forward or backward.
Install the outer window seal into the door. The replacement seal has a wide, soft rubber lip. The original weatherstrip was felt-covered. Apply adhesive to the back of the weatherstrip if the snaps don't hold it securely to the doorframe.
Install the anti-rattle bumper, the window upper stop, and the upper attachment bolts for the window channels. New stops and bumpers are also available from Zip Products. Check to see if the replacement bumpers require metric bolts.
Adjust the window if needed. Move the short horizontal channel to position the glass parallel with the windshield post. Move the upper stops until the window seats properly in the roof weatherstrip. Move the front channel to adjust the window forward and aft. Finally, move the window channel upper attachments to adjust the window inboard or outboard.
Install the moisture-barrier film or tape over the holes in the inner door panel. Aluminum duct tape works well. The project is finished with installation of the door panel, which is the reverse of the steps in the removal.
One item to note during installation is that the lock knob only goes on one way: there are no splines on one side. After installing the knob, pull on it to make sure the clip is secure. If the car has manual windows, put the window up or down to install the handle in your preferred position.
The disfigured glass is gone, and perfect glass is in its place. The window moves up and down smoothly and seals against the weatherstrip. Door-glass replacement was a clear choice to make the visual component of driving more pleasurable for both driver and passenger.
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I closed the door. As it clicked shut, I remembered that the driver-side door handle no longer worked--and the windows were closed. The passenger-side door handle wasn't much better but, luckily
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