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Corvette Nitrous System - C6 Squeeze Play
Installing Nitrous Outlet's 90mm EFI Plate System On An LS2 C6
Randall D. Allen
Jan 1, 2009
Waco, TX 76712
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Corvette Nitrous System - C6 Squeeze Play
The Nitrous Outlet LS1/LS2 90mm EFI Plate System (PN NO-10108-10) consists of everything needed for installation, including the EFI plate along with nitrous and fuel solenoids. Also included are nitrous and fuel hoses, a 10-pound nitrous bottle, stainless steel quick-release bottle brackets, and all required electrical components-including an arming switch and a throttle-activated micro switch.
The plate, which mounts behind the throttle body, uses multiple nitrous and fuel-discharge ports to spray across the intake throat, resulting in a super-atomized cocktail of nitrous and fuel.
In addition to full nitrous kits, Nitrous Outlet stocks a full line of accessories. One of the most popular is the Stage 3 Accessory Pack (PN NO-00-6902), which contains an automatic bottle heater, a nitrous-pressure gauge, a fuel-pressure safety switch, an NHRA fitting, a blow-down tube, a nitrous filter, and a purge kit.
Nitrous Outlet also sells this fully automated heater bottle bracket (PN 860-010130). The cradle is made of 6063 T-6 polished aluminum, and bottle removal is expedited with quick-release stainless-steel clamps. A toggle switch, relay, and harness are all included.
Nitrous Outlet's digital dual window switch (PN NO-00-6100) includes built-in throttle-position-sensor (TPS) activation and can be set up to control nitrous activation. In most applications, the switch is set to turn the system on at 3,000 rpm and off approximately 300 rpm before the redline. It features a built-in gear lockout as well as a digital display.
After unpacking the contents of the kit and reading the detailed instructions, the rear hatch is opened to determine a suitable mounting spot for the nitrous bottle(s). A clip-removal tool is used to extract the two push tabs that retain the center portion of the rear trim panel.
The trim panels on each side are next on the removal list. Each panel has two threaded inserts and two push clips that need to come out. Next, the plastic covers over the inner wheelhousings are snapped off, and the manual gas-tank- and trunk-release levers are slipped through the slits in the carpeting.
Once all the clips and retainers are free, carefully lift out each of the side panels and store them in a safe location. Proceed to remove the carpeting from the rear deck.
Once the deck is visible, you'll need to determine a method for mounting the bottle(s). Since owner Allen chose to use two 10-pound bottles and dual heated brackets, Marson inserts will be utilized to ensure a secure fit. The carpet is slit to allow a 27/64-inch bit to drill holes in the top ridges of the deck. A thread-setter tool is then used to rivet 1/4-20 threaded inserts into the holes (one hole in front and two in the rear on the 860 bottle brackets).
The carpet is placed in position, and the 3/4-inch long 1/4-20 bolts are placed through the bracket. A 10mm wrench then tightens each bolt up snugly.
Before installation, the bottles are prepped by installing the bottle nut and nipple with an adjustable wrench and then removing the plug on the valve with a 3/16-inch Allen wrench. In place of the plug goes a Nitrous Outlet liquid-filled pressure gauge, which has a fitting for a heater pressure switch. According to Vasser, Red Loctite or Teflon pastes are the only acceptable sealants for this job.
With the bottles positioned in the brackets, the NHRA-mandated blow-down tubes are prefit to determine where the carpet will need to be slit to facilitate hole-drilling. A 1/2-inch bit is used to drill through the fiberglass panel.
The tubes are slipped into position and marked, then cut with a hacksaw so they protrude past the panel by about 1 inch. After fitment, a 7/8-inch wrench tightens the tubes.
Next, the mass-airflow sensor (MAF) connector is unsnapped, and the PCV system is disconnected. A flat-bladed screwdriver is used to unscrew the band clamps that retain the bridge between the air-cleaner assembly and throttle body. The four throttle-body bolts are then liberated with a 10mm socket.
The Nitrous Outlet plate is mounted between the throttle body and intake manifold, with the integral O-ring seal toward the front and the flat portion to the back. Replacement 2 1/2-inch bolts are threaded into the manifold and tightened securely with an 8mm socket.
The optional C6 Head Solenoid Bracket (PN NO-5416) allows the solenoids to be mounted to the passenger-side cylinder head. Included with the bracket are bolts and spacers for the EVAP bracket.
After the fuel, nitrous, and purge solenoids are mounted to the bracket, the EVAP hose is disconnected, and the EVAP retaining bracket is removed with a 15mm wrench.
The solenoid bracket and solenoids are then installed, followed by the bridge and air-cleaner assembly.
Next, the driver-side valve cover is removed, followed by the cap at the end of the fuel rail. A rag is placed under the end of the rail, and a Schrader-valve tool is used to take off the valve. The rail side of the fuel-pressure-switch manifold is tightened down with a 9/16-inch wrench, while the switch itself is attached to the manifold with a 1/2-inch wrench (apply Loctite to junction). Once that is complete, a fitting is attached to the end of the manifold, and an 18-inch -4AN fuel line is routed under the throttle body and attached to the inlet side of the fuel solenoid.
The LS1/LS2 90mm EFI Plate System comes with adjustable power levels; in this case, the owner opted for a 150hp shot. After referring to the jet chart that comes in the instruction manual, the specified fuel jet is loaded into the plate. The supplied 2-foot 3AN fuel line is then attached with a 7/16-inch wrench and routed under the passenger-side fuel rail to the fuel side of the EFI plate. The line is tightened on the plate side with a 7/16-inch wrench.
The proper nitrous jet is loaded into the plate, and the 2-foot -4 nitrous-feed line from the nitrous solenoid is tightened with a 9/16-inch wrench. It's then routed to the plate and tightened with a 7/16-inch wrench.
With the fuel and nitrous routed to the EFI plate, the optional Nitrous Outlet purge kit (PN NO-00-6200) is removed from its packaging, and the 3-foot, 3/16-inch flexible aluminum line is unrolled. After determining that the best location for the purge line is in the center of the cowl, a drill and a 13/64-inch bit are used to cut the necessary hole.
The purge line is then routed along the passenger side of the intake manifold and cut to length. Next, the fitting to the purge solenoid is tightened with a 7/16-inch wrench, and a cap is placed over the end of the line at the cowl to keep out debris.
After locating a spot for the dual digital window switch, the unit is mounted to the inner fenderwell (inside the fuse panel) by drilling two 1/8-inch holes and screwing in the supplied 8-32 self-tapping screws. Although not shown, three holes were drilled in the firewall on the passenger side-one each for the relays that operate the system-arming switch and the dual bottle heaters.
In order to bring the -4 AN main nitrous line and related wiring into the C6, the interior needs to be partially disassembled. This will provide access to the upper-firewall panel. Before accessing the panel, the passenger-side sill plate is popped off.
Pull down the upper firewall panel and locate the rubber grommet through which the PCM wires run. Use a razor blade to make a 1-inch slit on the right side of grommet, then get out the 16-foot -4AN nitrous line and put tape over both ends to keep out debris. Feed the nitrous line through the slit in the grommet until it passes through the firewall. With that done, route the solenoid and system wires under the fuel rails and protect them with wiring loom. Put loom over the digital dual window switch and relays, and route them through the same hole in the grommet. Make sure the nitrous line won't abrade against the loom or come in contact with the firewall.
Continue routing the nitrous line and bottle-heater wires down the passenger-side sill plate and rear trim panel until they reach the nitrous bottles.
One of the most important accessories for any nitrous system is a quality nitrous filter such as this unit from Nitrous Outlet (PN NO-OO-6500). Although the solenoid itself is equipped with a stainless mesh filter, it's not meant to be the primary filtering source. Check back next month, when we wrap up our installation and unleash the nitrous-snorting Vette on Real Performance Motorsports' chassis dyno.
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