C1 Corvette Rearend - Straight And To The Point

Installing Jim Meyer Racing Products' 9-Inch Rearend Kit For C1s

Jerry Slattery Apr 1, 2008 0 Comment(s)
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The kit is available two ways-complete, as seen here, or without the housing and axles. Gears, axles, and disc or drum brakes are options on the complete kit, which can be ordered in any width.

The process of resurrecting a first-generation Corvette can lead to plenty of uncertainty, including the question of whether to go all-original or upgrade key parts with more-modern alternatives. Fortunately for the mod-happy crowd, the industry is rife with components designed specifically for the latter purpose. Even better, the installation of high-performance parts has proved to have little to no effect on resale value in most instances.

When it comes to C1 rearend upgrades, one of the most impressive kits on the market is the Jim Meyer Racing Products 9-inch kit with 4-link. Meyer put plenty of thought into this setup, and it shows: It's the same width as the original (optional widths are available), uses the stock driveshaft, offers the same wheel-bolt pattern (again, non-stock patterns are available), and places the tires in the stock position in the fender opening for an original look. The rearend housing, centered in the stock location under the chassis, features an adjustable, urethane-bushed Panhard bar; urethane-bushed, adjustable 4-link bars; and aluminum, adjustable coilover shocks with multi-position brackets.

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This is a '59-'62 Corvette chassis with the upper traction arms (above the springs) in place. The arms and their brackets must be removed to install the kit. (The '53-'58 models have a spring stop on the outside of the frame that must be removed.) This is the point at which you'll want to measure and check the rear frame for previous damage. If you find any, the car may need to go to a frame shop for straightening.

As you look through the following installation photos, you'll notice there is some welding and grinding required. If you have a '53-'58, you'll need to remove both forward spring-stop brackets (found on the outside of the frame) to make room for the 4-link bars. On the '59-'62 (shown), you'll need to remove the upper traction-bar brackets on both outside framerails. A cut-off wheel, cutting torch, or Plasma cutter will work fine for this purpose. Grind the area clean and apply a little paint. You'll also need to remove the front and rear spring hangers from the outside of the rails.

The job is a relatively simple one if you have any rearend-swapping experience. The kit comes with 12 pages of instructions that feature large photos showing exactly what to do. And if the task still seems daunting, Meyer will even install the rear at his shop.

The first thing to do before starting the installation is to check the frame and make sure it isn't bent. You can do this with a tape measure by measuring from the rear crossmember to the body mounts where the forward 4-link brackets will go. Also measure in an "X" fashion (diagonally), from the two body mounts to the rear of the frame, to make sure the chassis is square.

If all looks good, start the installation by clamping the forward 4-link brackets to the frame-rails, just underneath the body mounts on the outside of the rails (see photos). Measure again. Next, grind to clean metal and weld the brackets on. Install the upper coilover-mount adapters next. Meyer's design uses the stock upper-shock-mounting hole to mount a specially designed adapter that fits the top of the coilovers.

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Once all stock components have been removed, temporarily clamp the forward 4-link bracket in position to check the fit. You may need to do some grinding to get the bracket to mount properly under the outside body mount.

Once the bolt and adapter have been installed in the crossmember, find the small support plates in the kit. These plates, which will be welded to the rear side of the crossmember, support the coilover-mounting bolts on both sides of the chassis. As you'll notice in the photos, the crossmember over the rearend had to be replaced. It appeared that the shock-mounting bracket inside the crossmember was positioned incorrectly from the factory. This was very unusual; in fact, Meyer had never seen another case like this one.

While the improper angle worked fine with the conventional OEM shocks, it would likely have affected the ride when used in conjunction with coilovers. The car probably wouldn't have sat level, either. Fortunately, our installer was able to make a quick-and-easy fix using a section of 2-inch box tube. A new crossmember was fabricated, and new upper-coilover brackets were welded into position.

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