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C2 Corvette Wiring - Vintage Connections
Dick Coup Takes His Love For The Grand Sport To An Electrifying New Height
Mar 1, 2004
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C2 Corvette Wiring - Vintage Connections
The first thing John did was to lay out all the wiring on a bench and get familiar with the overall design. The fuse block is pre-wired with all the circuits that are fused, and the wires that go to devices-such as headlights-from the switches are in marked bags for easy identification.
With the base installed, the fuse block snaps on and the wires are routed to their destination.
The fuse-block mounting base was installed on a special bracket Dick had designed. When finished, the bracket will swing out for easy access to the fuse block and wiring.
All the wires are labeled their entire length and here John is double-checking some of them to ensure they are routed correctly.
John mounts the maxi fuse which will protect the entire electrical system from a major electrical short or incident. The key to placement of the maxi fuse is ease of servicing.
Shown is an example of the wires and the destination printing on them. The wire is all high-temperature TXL, which resists not only heat but chemicals also.
With each group of lay-in wires individually packaged, a few circuits can be installed, and, when completed, the next group can be installed.
The taillight wires are about 18 feet long-so John lays them out on the floor beside the car to make sure they won't tangle when pulled through the body.
A special opening was put in the B-pillar, inside the rear fenderwell, to allow the wires to be routed towards the front and rear of the body. This opening also allows the door racing number lights (arrow) to be serviced.
The wires are then pulled through an opening into the trunk. Note the blue trough (arrow), which the wires will lay in when the final routing is finished.
The other end of the wires are routed to the front of the car and come out behind the driver's kick panel.
Original reproduction taillight sockets were wired in, as well as a new license plate light.
The lights are wired in, and the wires are placed in the trough for a clean installation.
Two electric fuel pumps were mounted in the trunk, and additional wires were routed to the fuel pump relays from the switches located in the console. These relays will ensure maximum output from the pumps.
With the tail finished John turned to wiring the dash. First he wired the headlight switch connector. Using the original-style connectors on switches, when available, will allow the dash to be easily removed later for servicing.
A universal ignition switch with connector was found and wired in.
A new dimmer switch was mounted in the original location and wired.
John set the dash in place to get a measurement of the harness dash wires. A quick disconnect will be wired in order to allow the entire dash assembly to be removed easily.
The dash panel wires were routed and cut to the measurement, and the quick disconnect was installed. The 12-way disconnect kit, PN 40011, is also from Painless.
All of the gauges and switches were installed in the dash panel, and a small harness was fabricated and routed to the quick disconnect.
Here is the finished dash panel with disconnect. It is ready to set and plug in. Note the grounding strip on each lower side of the panel. These terminal strips provided all the grounds needed for the gauges and indicator lights.
Speaking of grounding strips, this one is on the dash mounting cross bar. The cross bar is tied directly to the chassis when the body is mounted.
The finished dash. There will be small panels added later to enclose the swing-out tray for the fuse block.
Little things like plugging in the turn and hazard flashers, tying up some wires with plastic ties, and general cleaning up and the dash area will be finished. Note the mounted fuse block in the background with the two 15-amp relays pre-installed. One is for the horn, and the other auxiliary relay will be used to power the A/C unit later.
This shows how the fuse block swings out for easy service.
Next John sorts out the headlight wires which will be routed to each headlight and park-light assembly.
With the wire srouted, they are cut to length.
Since there are two headlights per side, a splice is used to connect the wire from the dimmer switch to the two input wires of the lights. Once the splice is crimped, the heat shrink will cover and protect the splice.
The new reproduction park/turn socket was spliced in, and the horn and fan relay were wired in. This area is finished.
A grounding strip was installed at the base of the radiator support on each side-similar to the ones in the dash area for the lighting grounds.
The electric-fan relay was installed on the radiator support and wired in earlier. It is important that the fan relay is as close to the fan and main power input as possible for maximum performance.
John now turned his attention to the engine compartment. The wires for the ignition were cut to length and attached to the coil.
The wires for the alternator and coolant temperature sender were routed through a conduit and cut to length. The alternator is a one-wire unit. So it was simple to hook up just the output wire.
A heat shrink terminal was installed on the coolant temperature wire and installed on the sender. The oil-pressure sender was done in the same manner.
The starter wires were routed down and attached to the solenoid.
A ground strap was fabricated and attached between the fuel-pump block-off plate and the motor-mount frame bracket. There can never be too many ground wires connecting the different body parts together.
The finished shot of the engine compartment. Clean, neat, and very functional.
The last item is making the battery cables. The Painless kit, PN 40100, came with number one red cable for the positive and a number one black cable for the battery ground. A hammer swage device was used to install the copper-ring lugs also furnished with the kit.
Once the lugs were installed, a piece of glued heat shrink was installed to protect the connection from possible corrosion.
The cable is completed and ready to install.
Dick installed the master disconnect in the body between the back glass and the trunk lid.
The battery cable is installed on the master disconnect and routed to the battery.
With all the electrical system now installed, a 10-amp battery charger is hooked to the battery cables. All circuits are tested for proper operation. The battery charger is used, instead of the battery, because if there was a circuit accidentally wired wrong, the small output charger would not cause damage to the rest of the electrical system.
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