18. Part of the kit includes this adapter bracket that hooks to the linkage on the carb. Both our stock throttle rod and the TPS sending unit cable will hook to this.
19. Next up was mounting the TPS sending unit, after we plugged it into the harness. After connecting the cable to the carb linkage, we mounted it on the back side of the inner fender.
20. Because the 4L80E is fully electronic, it has no provisions for a mechanical speedo cable. TCI's speedo control unit plugs right into the EZ-TCU harness, and receives the signal from the output sensor on the trans. The unit in turn drives a mechanical speedo cable you connect to the car's factory speedometer.
21. Without taking the dash apart, we were able to get underneath it, disconnect the factory cable, and install the shorter one from TCI that hooks into the control unit.
22. Quick tip to make installing the cable on the speedo end easier. Take a rubber band and wrap it several times around the cable shaft, to keep the mounting cup from sliding down the cable.
23. From there we hooked in the RPM signal unit to the distributor, then secured it on the firewall.
24. With the harness plugged in to all the sensors, we plugged it into the EZ-TCU brain, and mounted it on the front of the inner fender, hidden away from plain sight and also protected from water splash or heat from the engine. This gives our trans install a much stealthier look too.
25. For constant power to the trans controller, we ran the power and ground wire under the top of the radiator support, over to the battery. The instructions say to hook the red wire directly to the battery for constant power, but we found it easier to hook into this fusible link in front of the battery, that has key off power running to it. We ran the ground to the backside of the ground wire coming off the negative battery cable, effectively hiding both wires but hooking them up properly.
26. We mounted the speedo control box here on the inner fender, just below the master cylinder.
27. Our adapter rod for the column shifter is longer than the stock one. This requires some test fitting first, then trimming and bending of the rod to get everything right.
28. The EZ-TCU also has a key on power wire that needs to be hooked in. We used this open plug on the factory fuse block and plugged the wire right in.
29. After hooking our shifter rod into the column linkage, we ran it down to the trans and measured what we had to cut off.
30. The rod also required a little bending so it wouldn't bind during operation. The arm on our two-post lift made that an easy job.
31. After using a cutoff wheel to trim the rod, we installed the end and hooked it into the bracket on the trans. With the shifter in park, we moved the gear selector on the trans to park, clocked the linkage bracket to hook up with the rod, then tightened everything up. After that, we had all seven shift points with our factory column shifter.
32. Part of our kit from TCI was an external trans cooler. For maximum cooling, we mounted it in tandem with the factory cooler in the radiator, to keep our TCI synthetic ATF as cool as possible during hard use.
33. The next step was to turn the key on, hook up the EZ-TCU programmer, and program in the basic settings for the trans controller. If you don't know your tire diameter, it gives you the option of what size tire you're running. You will need to know your rear gear also.
34. Last thing to do is fill up the trans with TCI's Break-In synthetic ATF. After a 30 minute drive under light driving loads, we pulled back in, dumped the fluid, changed the filter, and refilled with TCI's regular synthetic ATF.
35. And there you have it. We went from two gears to four, have a cruise-friendly overdrive to mate with our 3.73 rear gear, and have three forward gears tough enough to take just about any punishment we can dole out at the dragstrip or autocross.