Pa Racer And Flaming River - Rack 'em Up!

Pa Racing And Flaming River Help Give Your Third-Gen A Better Feel - Even With The Wheels Off The Ground.

Dan Ryder Aug 8, 2007 0 Comment(s)
Sucp_0707_09_z Pa_racing_and_flaiming_river Remove_k_member 1/24

Now that all necessary steering components are removed, we can work on getting the K-member out. First, the lower ball joints need to be removed from the spindles. Once the nut is removed, you can use a hammer to shock the spindle (in order to loosen and remove the ball joint).





Sucp_0707_10_z Pa_racing_and_flaiming_river Remove_fasteners 2/24

Remove the fasteners holding the engine mounts to the old K-member. Notice that this vehicle already contains an aftermarket K-member. This K-member doesn't contain the needed mounts for the Pinto style rack, and it is made of mild steel, not chrome-moly. Also take notice of the scuffmarks on the K-member; this is a result of a clearance issue with the old inner tie-rod end.



Sucp_0707_11_z Pa_racing_and_flaiming_river Wiggle_out_k_member 3/24

OK, now for the scary part. The K-member contains three bolts on each side in order for removal. Once removed, the K-member can be wiggled out. Look ma, no hands!







Sucp_0707_12_z Pa_racing_and_flaiming_river Oil_pan_change 4/24

Alright, now that the engine has not fallen on our heads, we will perform a quick oil pan change. The Milodon pan was damaged from a bumper-dragging wheelstand. Inspection of the oil pick-up tube and engine internals showed no damage. We didn't expect any due to consistent oil pressures.




Sucp_0707_13_z Pa_racing_and_flaiming_river K_member_installed 5/24

Once the oil pan was buttoned up, the new K-member was installed. We advise leaving all bolts loose until all six are started, then tighten them up. This aids in lining up the K-member properly.






Sucp_0707_14_z Pa_racing_and_flaiming_river Install_control_arms 6/24

We're now ready to install the new adjustable lower control arms. Aluminum spacers need to be installed-large ones in front and smaller ones in rear. Then attach the ball joints and tighten. Don't forget the cotter pins, grease fittings, and grease.





Sucp_0707_15_z Pa_racing_and_flaiming_river Attach_ball_joints 7/24











Sucp_0707_16_z Pa_racing_and_flaiming_river Install_engine_mount_bolts 8/24

Now for what we thought was the easy part. We're going to install the engine mount bolts back in. Piece of cake, right? Not really. Due to tight tolerances of the solid engine mounts, it took a better part of an hour to get all eight bolts in. Once again, loosen all bolts to aid in adjustment. Patience is necessary.




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