Now that all necessary steering components are removed, we can work on getting the K-member out. First, the lower ball joints need to be removed from the spindles. Once the nut is removed, you can use a hammer to shock the spindle (in order to loosen and remove the ball joint).
Remove the fasteners holding the engine mounts to the old K-member. Notice that this vehicle already contains an aftermarket K-member. This K-member doesn't contain the needed mounts for the Pinto style rack, and it is made of mild steel, not chrome-moly. Also take notice of the scuffmarks on the K-member; this is a result of a clearance issue with the old inner tie-rod end.
OK, now for the scary part. The K-member contains three bolts on each side in order for removal. Once removed, the K-member can be wiggled out. Look ma, no hands!
Alright, now that the engine has not fallen on our heads, we will perform a quick oil pan change. The Milodon pan was damaged from a bumper-dragging wheelstand. Inspection of the oil pick-up tube and engine internals showed no damage. We didn't expect any due to consistent oil pressures.
Once the oil pan was buttoned up, the new K-member was installed. We advise leaving all bolts loose until all six are started, then tighten them up. This aids in lining up the K-member properly.
We're now ready to install the new adjustable lower control arms. Aluminum spacers need to be installed-large ones in front and smaller ones in rear. Then attach the ball joints and tighten. Don't forget the cotter pins, grease fittings, and grease.
Now for what we thought was the easy part. We're going to install the engine mount bolts back in. Piece of cake, right? Not really. Due to tight tolerances of the solid engine mounts, it took a better part of an hour to get all eight bolts in. Once again, loosen all bolts to aid in adjustment. Patience is necessary.