The most important factor to keep in mind when choosing a ring set or deciding how much gap to run, is your engine's ultimate destination. Don't buy the high-dollar racing ring set for your mild motor because it may not make any more power, or last any longer than a stock ring set would. However, don't try to save a few bucks here either if you're building a motor that'll see some abuse, spend a few extra bucks on a good ring set. Many of today's street engines might see a dose of nitrous oxide, too; and as such could make good use of a ductile-iron ring set. The difference in price is negligible, but the difference in performance is immeasurable.
Dyno Testing Part 20This month's test is being compared to Part 19-Test 34 from last month. For Part 20-Test 35, Speed-O-Motive replaced the standard-gap moly rings we were running before with a set of ductile iron, file-fit gapless top rings from Total Seal. The power increase we found was outstanding, considering that the gapless rings only cost about $100 more than standard set we were using. We also learned a few things about tuning for the lack of a ring gap and how it affects power (see: Tuning The Gap).
Danger Mouse specs from Part 19-Test 34 (last test from last month):355 cid, 10:1 cr, 4.030-bore 4-bolt Motown block, 3.48-stroke Lunati crank, 5.7-inch Lunati rods, Edelbrock Victor Jr. heads (64cc chambers, 215cc runners, 2.08-inch intake valves, 1.60-inch exhaust valves), Victor Jr. intake, Mighty Demon 650 carb, COMP Cams Xtreme Energy solid roller camshaft installed at 105 intake CL (242/248 at .050, 280/286 adv, .600/.606 lift with COMP 1.6:1 rockers, 110 LS), 38 degrees total ignition advance Danger Mouse specs for Part 20-Test 35:Same as above, but with Total Seal ductile-iron gapless top rings (PN M3690 35)
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