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Making Your Corvette Invisible
Project Shark Attack Goes Stealthy
Sep 7, 2007
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Making Your Corvette Invisible
Project Shark Attack now will be invisible to all radar/laser attacks.
Our K40 Electronics Calibre SL with Front Laser Defuser comes complete and ready to install.
We're going to remove the instrument cluster lens from PSA so we can route the LED wiring. The other concern is where we want to mount the LEDs. There are three Phillips head screws across the top and one on each side that retain the lens. Be careful the screwdriver you're using doesn't hit the lens and scratch it.
Next, we remove the gauge bezel to install the LEDs. If we decide to install the LEDs behind the cluster lens, we'll drill into the gauge bezel. Before drilling into the gauge bezel or any panel for that matter, it's a good idea to check the area behind the panel to be drilled to avoid unnecessary damage.
If we decided to install the LEDs in the gauge bezel, a Unibit drill bit is used on the first step or 1/4-inch. Unibits drill round holes unlike a standard drill bit, which leaves a triangulated hole. Once the hole is drilled in the gauge bezel, another hole would be drilled in the gauge panel for the wires to pass through.
The LEDs should push through the drilled hole and fit tight without any adhesives if done properly. We opted to use the pods that are provided because of the gauge panel recess. If the sound system is cranked up (so you cannot hear the sound warning), the LEDs provide another warning. we felt placing the LEDs in the gauge cluster would limit their view. There are two LEDs: one for the front radar and one for the rear radar notification.
Since we opted for the LED pods, holes were drilled to pass the wires through the lens. Be careful drilling into the gauge lens. Clear plastic can be brittle and if the drill bit catches, a crack can occur. We drilled a 1/4-inch hole for the wiring to pass through. This location would also allow removal of the LEDs if we wanted to move them later without any visible effects.
Now we install the gauge lens and drill the hole through the gauge assembly for the wire to be routed through. This is another area to be cautious of. If the drill chuck hits the lens, it will be junk. Be sure to blow out all the debris from the drilling and clean the lens.
The pods are installed on the cluster lens after cleaning the area with alcohol or brake cleaner. The supplied two-sided tape was installed on the pods; then the pods were stuck on the lens.
The LED wiring is routed through the previously drilled holes and into the upper part of the dash. LEDs have different color wiring for the front and rear. Be sure to install the LEDs on the proper side so you know which way the radar is coming at you.
We removed the driver side speaker grille to access the wires after they came out of the gauge panel. A piece of mechanics wire was used to pull the wires eventually under the dash. We don't have speakers in the traditional location in PSA so you would have to remove the speaker for access if the factory speakers were installed.
Now we slip the K40 interior network module in place under the dash. Fairly simple, just placing the unit wherever it will fit is fine. Tie-straps are provided to tie it in place. We tie the interior network module to the steering column. There is plenty of wire lead length on the LEDs and the interior network module. Remember, Blue Tooth technology means no external wires to connect so it can be placed virtually anywhere.
The system speaker may be the only limitation to where the interior network module is placed. We installed the system speaker with tie-straps as recommended, tying it off on the main harness. Later model Corvettes can have the module mounted to the lower dash plastic panels. Just place the speaker out of the way, as long as it can be heard clearly is what matters.
A male spade terminal was crimped on the ignition power wire and installed in the fuse panel. The interior network module requires 12-volt ignition power when the key is placed in the on and crank position. We used a voltmeter to determine that the correct voltage would be supplied from this fuse panel position.
The driver side kick-panel was removed, and the interior network ground wire was placed on the steel birdcage. The birdcage receives ground from the chassis and is the best point for a proper ground. While in the area, we connected the remaining wires per the directions and the supplied red butt connectors.
The front radar receiver was next and placing it behind the left grille was the logical choice. We tried fitting the receiver and then removed the grille for area access. Tie-straps are provided for radar receiver installation, but there was no way to properly secure the receiver.
A bracket was fabricated out of aluminum to secure the receiver to the grille support. The receiver has arrows on the housing and must point forward whether it's mounted horizontally or vertically. Plastic or fiberglass will not affect the signal. Do not place the receiver behind any metal or chromed plastics.
Now the front Laser Defuser is installed using the integral license plate surround. K40 supplies a separate bracket for the Laser Defuser if you prefer. The Laser Defuser must be pointed directly in front of you and perfectly level. The Defuser also must be within 18 inches of center and unobstructed if you plan on mounting the Defuser without the license plate surround.
Plastic hardware with additional nuts is provided to allow adjustment. Just remember that the Laser Defuser must be level. We shimmed our aftermarket front plate holder first and then used the provided nuts to fine-tune the leveling.
Now we're getting close to wrapping this project up. The supplied red butt connectors are used to connect the wiring per the directions. As you may notice, the radar receivers are tagged front or rear. If the wire colors don't match up, the receiver is in the wrong location.
The rear radar receiver is mounted to the bottom inside of the bumper. We used a urethane window sealer as an adhesive to stick the receiver to the bumper. Remember, it can be mounted behind fiberglass or plastic, but not metal. The rear receiver wires differently because it has no Laser Defuser, which is optional. On this system, we do not have the rear radar defusing option, but you can add it to any system.
We installed the supplied weatherproof fuse holders on the front and rear receiver power leads. The receivers can have 12-volt battery or ignition power to operate, thus making the installation easier. K40 Electronics is adamant that the fuses be installed after all connections are made. We've made all the connections, and now we're ready to try the system out, so in go the fuses.
The K40 Electronics remote can be placed wherever it's convenient to access. The remote should probably be mounted though because it's small and could be misplaced. It's easy to read and looks good so it won't hurt the interior aesthetics.
Turn the ignition key on and the Blue Tooth electronics take over. The LED's light and the speaker announce authoritatively that the K40 system is on. It's definitely a good idea to check the visibility of the LEDs before determining where to place it. If you position the LEDs in the dash on your project, make sure the steering wheel is placed in a comfortable position prior to the install so the LEDs can be seen easily.
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