from the editors of:
GM High Tech Performance
LOG IN / SIGN UP
GET THE MAGAZINE
tech & how to
engines & drivetrain
Chassis & Suspension
paint & body
Best of the Best
GM High Tech Performance
Project Orange Krate - Dirty Little Secrets
Project Orange Krate Gets Stripped With A Chemical Bath.
Jun 1, 2010
View Full Gallery
View Full Article »
VIEW FULL GALLERY
Project Orange Krate - Dirty Little Secrets
To prepare the body for chemical stripping, Competition Specialties team member Brian Jordan needed to address a number of areas. In order to remove the exterior door handles and locks, he first disconnected the inner door handles and window riser handles, followed by the door panels, upper door panel section as well as the door lock pull. He made sure to bag and tag all the hardware at every step.
With the door hardware removed, Jordan used a pick to pull all of the related weather seals from the door area.
With the weather seals out of the way, an electric Phillips head screwdriver was used to remove the chrome accent trim.
The final step was to pull all of the exterior window moldings. Close attention must be paid during this step so as not to bend, kink, or damage any of the moldings during the process. A specially designed window clip removal tool was used for this job. You never want to catch the edge of the glass when releasing the inner clips as this might chip or damage the glass.
We chose Klean-Strip's Aircraft paint remover to properly remove the paint from the body of the car. This is a professional-grade, fast-acting stripper promising to lift all paint from metal surfaces in a snap.
Our good friend Ray Williams who operates the local Sherwin-Williams Automotive Finishes store in Medford not only supplied us with the stripper, but also everything else needed to take on the job. This included plenty of Scotch masking tape, application brushes, mixing cups, protective glasses, scrapers, masking paper, protective gloves, and sandpaper.
Jordan followed by back-masking the window areas to prepare them for masking paper. He also back-masked all related door and side marker openings to ensure no stripper could enter and cause unwanted damage.
Jordan tells us that it's very important all door seams are sealed up to keep the chemicals out of the jamb and inner door areas, which will be stripped at a later time. Once the masking paper is in place, trimming it with a razor helps make the final product nice and clean.
This is going to be a messy job, so covering the floor and creating a runoff area from the rocker panel to the floor is a good idea. Remember to wear old work clothes when taking on a job like this.
To assist the product's adhesion to the shiny paint surface, shop owner Peter Newell swears by first scuffing up the surface with 36-grit sandpaper.
Using a 3-inch, short-bristle, chemical-resistant brush, the product was generously applied working it in one direction only to the B-pillar area. We can't stress enough the seriousness of protecting yourself when using these chemicals. Plan on operating in a well-ventilated area, wear eye protection, and use protective gloves while taking on the project.
Within minutes, you can see the product working as it starts to lift the paint from the surface, causing it to soften and blister. In this image, the solvent had been on the surface for 15 minutes.
It was easy to start seeing some of the car's past life after the paint was removed from the surface, including the use of plastic body fillers. These will require additional treatments of the stripper to soften for removal.
From a show finish to no finish, lickety-split! Note how bubbled the surface became after 15 minutes, and just how easy it was for a scraper to lift the paint and primer off the surface of the body.
A close inspection of the rear quarter-panel proved that not only was the rear section angle-spliced and replaced, but also riddled with a series of dings flowing through a sea of mud.
With the balance of the rear quarter-panel covered with stripper, Newell continued by re-coating the previously cleaned area to address all of the remaining body filler.
Using a scraper and a section of cardboard to catch the debris, you can see just how easy it was to remove the paint from the surface.
With the paint long gone, it was time to uncover all of the car's dirty little hidden secrets, and boy this one has its share
It's amazing to see just how fast the old, hardened body filler gave it up to the chemical reaction, softening up rather quickly.
The bottom of the passenger door was a horrific mess with an ungodly amount of body filler coating it from front to rear, obviously hiding something really ugly.
Once the stripper had completed its task, Jordan grabbed his air-driven DA sander topped with 80-grit and proceeded to remove the remaining body filler.
The lower area of the passenger-side door looks like it was hit at some point, as you can easily make out a bumper impression and bodywork.
These two angles let you see the carnage the Camaro met when the rear quarter-panel was partially replaced.
You can also see how rough the bottom of the panel is where a steady stream of body filler once covered up its past.
With the car almost completely stripped, its past history is finally out in the open, which will help us outline the upcoming steps as the project moves forward.
Working with chemical stripper meant there was much less dust, and the procedure left the shop's immediate environment with a lot less cleanup. Stay tuned for the next installment on Project Orange Krate coming up soon!
LS1, LS6,LS2, LS3, L99, LS4, LS7, LS9 And LSA Engine History - GM High-Tech Performance
Web exclusive content of the history of the LS engine which includes the LS1/LS6, LS2, LS3/L99, LS4, LS7, LS9 and the LSA, only from GM High-Tech Performance Magazine.
4.8L VS 5.3L Engine - Tech - Little LS Slugfest - Super Chevy Magazine
Most people look past the small 4.8L engine and go straight for the bigger ones. In this Little LS Slugfest, we compare both stock and modified versions of the 4.8L and 5.3L engines, now you be the judge!
1966 Chevy II Raising The Bar - Super Chevy Magazine
Roy Pigford's 1966 Chevy II
Building a 700 Horsepower 454 On a Budget - Super Chevy Magazine
We take a junkyard 454 shortblock, and without taking it apart bolt on a new top end and other parts to make 700 horsepower for less than 2500 dollars - Super Chevy Magazine
recent how to articles
Chevy Performance Tech Q&A - November 2014
Chevy Performance Parts Bin - October 2014
1971 Chevrolet Camaro Project Orange Krate - Full Frontal
Techin’ In With Fletch - October 2014
Inside the New 507-cfm Brodix SR20 Chevy Cylinder Head
subscribe to the magazine
Subscribe and Save 74% off the Cover Price!